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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-01-2014, 08:15 AM   #9211
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Originally Posted by Chris-s View Post
I've built a few new RB6's recently and the slop when new is the same as my car which is over a year old. I wouldn't worry at all.
i was just under the impression that the kyosho had tighter tolerances. my dex front end is solid.

i come from a MX and downhill mountain biking background. flex is a frequently desireable to make the bike more stable in the chop. but is that the same way with slop in r/c's?
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:24 AM   #9212
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Some slop in an RC car is fine and impossible to fix unless you replace or shim after every few runs. It's how much it ends up being that is the make or break for some people. The Kyosho cars maintain the slop very well versus others.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:33 AM   #9213
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Kevin what's the difference with the 97050 ball studs in the rear vs the stock ones?
The stock ones are the short black ones, the 97050 are the longer medium length ones, The fill more of the plastic vs the black ones and don't rip out. I don't run the black ones anywhere on the car as I can put a medium one in it's place.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:49 AM   #9214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chillindrdude View Post
i was just under the impression that the kyosho had tighter tolerances. my dex front end is solid.

i come from a MX and downhill mountain biking background. flex is a frequently desireable to make the bike more stable in the chop. but is that the same way with slop in r/c's?
simply put, yes. The "tighter" a car is the more precise the chassis movements are and the more reactive the chassis will be to adjustments. This is typically a good thing but it can be a handful to deal with on a bumpy or blown out track. The little bit of slop that the Kyoshos develop is good in my opinion. They get a little wiggle and then never get anymore and as mentioned before, they hold their slop better than a vast majority of other vehicles.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:28 AM   #9215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chillindrdude View Post
i was just under the impression that the kyosho had tighter tolerances. my dex front end is solid.

i come from a MX and downhill mountain biking background. flex is a frequently desireable to make the bike more stable in the chop. but is that the same way with slop in r/c's?
If you have a car that has a very tight fit, it will more often than not be difficult to drive and bind up when dirt gets in there. Setup also becomes more finite as well.
The kyosho shocks are the best on the market for sure, which is pretty important, next to tyres.
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:39 PM   #9216
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Quick question I just got this car for christmas and this weekend going to be frst time running it what do you guys recommend for gearing for a 7.5? Moving from b4.2 can't wait
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:05 PM   #9217
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Has anybody used the Reedy square lipo in the RB6 yet? If so how do you like it as far as the car being balanced and how it handles compared to running saddle packs?
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:03 PM   #9218
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Hey guys ive been searching the forum and im wanting to put on the front rb5 axles on the front. That means i can run aka and proline rims then from what ive gathered?? Ive found a set with part number umw507 and wanted to know if they fit? Or do i have to go the umw506 route and buty the shaft separate like explained in the forum??
Thanks
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:17 PM   #9219
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^^since were on the subject is there any reason that I should switch to the rb5 axles over just using a 1mm hex spacer. I've been using the hex spacer on the front to run aka and proline wheels
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Old 01-01-2014, 07:35 PM   #9220
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If you have slop in the front end, it's normally from the caster block, just change em out every 6 months.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:49 PM   #9221
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Originally Posted by FallenAllDay View Post
Hey guys ive been searching the forum and im wanting to put on the front rb5 axles on the front. That means i can run aka and proline rims then from what ive gathered?? Ive found a set with part number umw507 and wanted to know if they fit? Or do i have to go the umw506 route and buty the shaft separate like explained in the forum??
Thanks
I have the stock front rb6 axles on mine still. No problems running aka rims on them. The rear is where you will most likely find problems. Stock rear axles are a little short for any other rim other then kyosho. Avid makes a longer axle conversion which is really nice, I have one on my car.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:54 PM   #9222
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Is the avid slipper really necessary?
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:03 PM   #9223
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Originally Posted by VenturaDC View Post
^^since were on the subject is there any reason that I should switch to the rb5 axles over just using a 1mm hex spacer. I've been using the hex spacer on the front to run aka and proline wheels
The stock axle is designed to be shimmed wider if needed, just put 1mm on the inside and add an extra 1mm to the outside.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:02 PM   #9224
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Originally Posted by Tom87 View Post
If you have slop in the front end, it's normally from the caster block, just change em out every 6 months.
do you also change pins at the same time?
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:08 PM   #9225
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Brilliant that makes life much easier. I already bought the avid long axle conversion so the rears not a problem anymore. So now my question is where do i need to put the spacer? In front of the hex or between the hub and hex, or both like mikexray said??
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