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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-26-2013, 09:14 PM   #9151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
The pack layout and weight depends on your track requirements. Our track is bumpy and tends to get low traction at times, so I have always run saddles all the way back against the motor plate (like tebo at cactus).

I tend to prefer a heavier car as it isn't as easily upset by bumps, and running the battery back for a little more rear weight distribution really locks the rear in when it gets slick. Having said that, I also run some very aggressive front tires, custom ground down to ghosted in some cases--I keep a little higher tread depth around for when the dust or crumbs come out on a drier night. My operating theory is that I can't re-arrange the car's weight distribution through the night reliably, so I just always setup the rear for the slickest possible conditions, and then meeter steering out based on how aggressive of a tire I run.

If I were running on something consistently high grip and smooth, I would be running a shorty forward as well.
Yeah Raza,

I've adopted a near identical approach to yours. At my home track it can definitely feel hooked up in one heat and then loose in the next...I've basically created the weight distribution i like and tune with tires and sometimes even the same tire with different inserts......almost always fronts.

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Originally Posted by spdrac430 View Post
in mm my ride is chassis slapping front and rear anything i can do beside try harder to down side jumps
It's not completely ideal but I put longer shock ends on........WARNING: playing with the droop isn't usually the best way to accomplish what you're going for....but we had a triple that had to be double singled that was literally 1ft from a corner....so i was seat bouncing...."landing in the face" of last jump and the car was slapping like something fierce in MM config.....added longer shock eyelets and BAM...insta-DIALED!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mblgjr View Post
Has anyone here come from a b4.2?

Anyone care to compare ea in rear motor form?

I've always been an AE guy. Losi just doesn't work for me. The RB6 seems to offer it all. I'm just struggling with the price point.
I still have and love my B4.2 but the RB6 is flat out faster on most surfaces that are groomed well and higher traction....when it gets loose or bumpy i feel that my B4.2 is easier to compete with.......

Both are AWESOME cars......kyosho plastics are light years better!
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:13 AM   #9152
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Honestly it comes down to how you drive. Some guys simply cant do MM based on how they drive.

If you:

Slide your car into and through a turn
Wait to the last moment to slam on the brakes
Have a heavy finger
Are not particularly smooth

Then MM may not fit you. It really is more of a finesse style that is required. Now you can get a little gritty with them, but not in the same way you can with a RM car. There is no weight back there to help you go really hard at times. That's what gets a lot of drivers to switch back.
Thanks guys for all the responses. Kevin I'm going to start with your mid motor setup to see how it goes. One questions I'm always confused by on the hole on the rear hubs looks like in the pic you have a different hole used then what's on the sheet? Or am I just reading it wrong? Thanks
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:53 AM   #9153
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Thanks guys for all the responses. Kevin I'm going to start with your mid motor setup to see how it goes. One questions I'm always confused by on the hole on the rear hubs looks like in the pic you have a different hole used then what's on the sheet? Or am I just reading it wrong? Thanks
I go back and forth between the middle holes depending on the track conditions. Insude is a little softer vs the outer one.
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:56 AM   #9154
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Stoked! Getting another rb6 tomorrow so I can start racing again! Gonna eventually swap out the Tekin/Reedy combo thats in it soon for a HW V3.1esc / HW V10 8.5 motor.....anyone running a HW V3 esc in their rb6 in RM form?
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:54 AM   #9155
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anyone here running the avid slipper? going to get it and i was wondering if the stock cover will work fine or i have to get a new cover ?
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:12 AM   #9156
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Originally Posted by iMarky View Post
anyone here running the avid slipper? going to get it and i was wondering if the stock cover will work fine or i have to get a new cover ?
If your talking about the plastic piece that covers the slipper then yes. it covers it.
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:17 AM   #9157
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
If your talking about the plastic piece that covers the slipper then yes. it covers it.
yeah that flimsy cover lol... any chance theres a nice one? i glued that little cap you can take off if you want to adjust the spring tensions.. i just unscrew it when i need to adjust so i can see it better..

thanks
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:25 AM   #9158
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I found some pics in the thread......all good!
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Old 12-27-2013, 06:58 PM   #9159
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams View Post
Stoked! Getting another rb6 tomorrow so I can start racing again! Gonna eventually swap out the Tekin/Reedy combo thats in it soon for a HW V3.1esc / HW V10 8.5 motor.....anyone running a HW V3 esc in their rb6 in RM form?
They always come back!!!
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:31 AM   #9160
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Originally Posted by iMarky View Post
anyone here running the avid slipper? going to get it and i was wondering if the stock cover will work fine or i have to get a new cover ?
Stock plastic cover works but you need to buy the avid gear shaft along with the avid slipper system. Great buy though!!
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:29 PM   #9161
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hello

We have done 2 races with RB6 in 13,5T stock cat. (high traction carpet with big jumps) and the car perform well without break or issues it is realy impressive.

I have two questions if someone has any experience a feedback appreciated.

- accelerating from zero with full throttle a strange noise coming out during 1-2 sec - could it be a diff? or slipper? anywey I will take out the diff to see what is inside.
- on the next race there is a mod class - the standard ball diff can handle lower turn motors like 8,5t ? Or in case of powerfull motors the gear diff conversiona must?

Thanks
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Old 12-28-2013, 02:02 PM   #9162
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Originally Posted by klimag View Post
hello

We have done 2 races with RB6 in 13,5T stock cat. (high traction carpet with big jumps) and the car perform well without break or issues it is realy impressive.

I have two questions if someone has any experience a feedback appreciated.

- accelerating from zero with full throttle a strange noise coming out during 1-2 sec - could it be a diff? or slipper? anywey I will take out the diff to see what is inside.
- on the next race there is a mod class - the standard ball diff can handle lower turn motors like 8,5t ? Or in case of powerfull motors the gear diff conversiona must?

Thanks
6.5/7.5 I run the 6.5 on high grip and the 7.5 everywhere else the ball diffs fine but the gear is fit an forget almost I just check the grease is still there every few months
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Old 12-28-2013, 02:14 PM   #9163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klimag View Post
hello

We have done 2 races with RB6 in 13,5T stock cat. (high traction carpet with big jumps) and the car perform well without break or issues it is realy impressive.

I have two questions if someone has any experience a feedback appreciated.

- accelerating from zero with full throttle a strange noise coming out during 1-2 sec - could it be a diff? or slipper? anywey I will take out the diff to see what is inside.
- on the next race there is a mod class - the standard ball diff can handle lower turn motors like 8,5t ? Or in case of powerfull motors the gear diff conversiona must?

Thanks
no i get that strange noise w gear diff too. avid slipper and it still makes that noise too. so not really sure what it is
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Old 12-28-2013, 03:16 PM   #9164
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U might have the slipper set to loose
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Old 12-28-2013, 03:18 PM   #9165
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I need help with gearing, for my mid motor setup I want to out a 9.5t motor. What do u guys suggest I should run?
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