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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-26-2013, 12:40 PM   #9136
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What oil did you end up with in the gear diff? Part number umw604 for the complete diff?
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:38 PM   #9137
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in mm my ride is chassis slapping front and rear anything i can do beside try harder to down side jumps
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:42 PM   #9138
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
What oil did you end up with in the gear diff? Part number umw604 for the complete diff?
I haven't tried anything but 5k yet. I have 2 diffs. I'm going to upgrade the gears to steel and I have the lighter pins also. I want to try 1-2k for my local track.
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:56 PM   #9139
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in mm my ride is chassis slapping front and rear anything i can do beside try harder to down side jumps


What shock setup do you have?
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:23 PM   #9140
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What are the parts needed to do a gear diff.
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:31 PM   #9141
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What are the parts needed to do a gear diff.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TSR-Kyosho-U...item27db8e9f0b

This has the pot metal gears. The hardened steal ones are ~$60 more.
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:37 PM   #9142
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What are the parts needed to do a gear diff.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TSR-Kyosho-U...item27db8e9f0b

This has the pot metal gears. The hardened steal ones are ~$60 more.
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Old 12-26-2013, 05:19 PM   #9143
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I have a question, as stupid as its going to sound, regarding the wide RF2 rear arm suspension hangers.

Are both the front and rear mounts in a wide position, or is it just the front mount? Im looking to purchase the aluminum hangers with the replaceable pills. But not sure which pills to start with for a medium to high bite track.

Any insight would be of much help!
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Old 12-26-2013, 06:53 PM   #9144
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Has anyone here come from a b4.2?

Anyone care to compare ea in rear motor form?

I've always been an AE guy. Losi just doesn't work for me. The RB6 seems to offer it all. I'm just struggling with the price point.
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:01 PM   #9145
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Originally Posted by beeanner View Post
I have a question, as stupid as its going to sound, regarding the wide RF2 rear arm suspension hangers.

Are both the front and rear mounts in a wide position, or is it just the front mount? Im looking to purchase the aluminum hangers with the replaceable pills. But not sure which pills to start with for a medium to high bite track.

Any insight would be of much help!
Yes you need to pair front and rear, but the adjustable set eliminates that, get both pieces and use the chart to choose what width and toe you want.
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:01 PM   #9146
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Originally Posted by mblgjr View Post
Has anyone here come from a b4.2?

Anyone care to compare ea in rear motor form?

I've always been an AE guy. Losi just doesn't work for me. The RB6 seems to offer it all. I'm just struggling with the price point.
I really liked the car in RM, had great steering and stability.
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:07 PM   #9147
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I need your opinion guys in either if I should stay rear motor or go mid motor? Right now my home track is low traction bumpy surface. My rb6 rm runs good but the fast guys are running associate mid motor nd re doing better, my question should I go mid motor or not? Have some tried mid motor nd went back yo rear motor
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:57 PM   #9148
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I need your opinion guys in either if I should stay rear motor or go mid motor? Right now my home track is low traction bumpy surface. My rb6 rm runs good but the fast guys are running associate mid motor nd re doing better, my question should I go mid motor or not? Have some tried mid motor nd went back yo rear motor
My driving style is more of a flowing type rather than a point and shoot. So with that said I started rear motor, went mid and then back to rear. Then it was mid and I have stayed with it since. I don't know if I will ever go back to rear motor because the car in mid motor just gives me that feel that I was looking for.

If you do go mid motor try Andy's setup to start with and then adjust to your driving style.
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Old 12-26-2013, 08:11 PM   #9149
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I need your opinion guys in either if I should stay rear motor or go mid motor? Right now my home track is low traction bumpy surface. My rb6 rm runs good but the fast guys are running associate mid motor nd re doing better, my question should I go mid motor or not? Have some tried mid motor nd went back yo rear motor
I would say for low bite bumpy conditions, stay rear motor. If those guys are doing well in mid motor, think how good they'd be in rear.
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Old 12-26-2013, 08:21 PM   #9150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I need your opinion guys in either if I should stay rear motor or go mid motor? Right now my home track is low traction bumpy surface. My rb6 rm runs good but the fast guys are running associate mid motor nd re doing better, my question should I go mid motor or not? Have some tried mid motor nd went back yo rear motor
Honestly it comes down to how you drive. Some guys simply cant do MM based on how they drive.

If you:

Slide your car into and through a turn
Wait to the last moment to slam on the brakes
Have a heavy finger
Are not particularly smooth

Then MM may not fit you. It really is more of a finesse style that is required. Now you can get a little gritty with them, but not in the same way you can with a RM car. There is no weight back there to help you go really hard at times. That's what gets a lot of drivers to switch back.
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