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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-24-2013, 07:46 AM   #9121
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Can anybody comment on battery placement for mm?.
i am building my second rb6 car right now. when i first had this car in MM last year i ran the shorty all they way back, i eventually ended with the shorty sideways against the motor all the way back. and i thought it seemed better. but I see a lot of people running the r10 and esc's in the back now. has anybody ran boith ways? mostly medium-sometimes high traction here.
thanks guys
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Old 12-24-2013, 07:55 AM   #9122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Kevin what's ur thought on new chassis? Worthy upgrade?
I've run it one race day and could tell the car was easier to drive. I initially ran it with the gear diff with too thick of oil initially. Then I went back to the 4x1.3 pistons vs the 3x1.4 and 2x1.6 combo. That made it easier to drive as I think the 4x1.3 is the better overall combo but if you need more initial pack the AE style combo works well. Still testing that though.

The addition of the milling plus the weight saving makes the car more nimble but the car was easier to drive with a shorty pack and 1530g vs a saddle car and 1630g with the other chassis. I was also running the ESC behind the battery but just changed it to the battery all the way back with the new battery mount. Looking forward to that as my bias went from 61.5% to 62.5% and 1545g with the added weight of the wires.
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:03 AM   #9123
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i never ran the saddles before but i felt like the car got better as i moved the shorty battery back. i had the standard servo and all the electronics bunched together up front. I never reallly saw anybody running the esc behind the battery untill Tebo did at the worlds. then everyone did and it seemed pretty popular after that. but i wonder if it is really better. i will try it out i guess but probably run the shorty in the back again at first.
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:12 AM   #9124
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Battery forward is really going to affect the car. Ive tried it and our tracks aren't gripped up enough to have it feel good enough consistently. It works no doubt as you gain a lot of entry and corner speed but you lose exit grip.
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:16 AM   #9125
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when Cody Turner came to our track which is medium bite...his car originally had the battery in front of the esc.......he ended up changing it and move the battery "shorty" back and the esc forward.

I also like the stock arms a bit more when I'm looking for rear bite.....
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:55 AM   #9126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Snyder View Post
when Cody Turner came to our track which is medium bite...his car originally had the battery in front of the esc.......he ended up changing it and move the battery "shorty" back and the esc forward.

I also like the stock arms a bit more when I'm looking for rear bite.....
Here at trackside, we have the same type of "medium" grip. I've tried both battery forward and back; shorty and saddle packs. Shorty pack back is it for me. I'm still adding a little weight here and there but this is it.
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:11 PM   #9127
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The pack layout and weight depends on your track requirements. Our track is bumpy and tends to get low traction at times, so I have always run saddles all the way back against the motor plate (like tebo at cactus).

I tend to prefer a heavier car as it isn't as easily upset by bumps, and running the battery back for a little more rear weight distribution really locks the rear in when it gets slick. Having said that, I also run some very aggressive front tires, custom ground down to ghosted in some cases--I keep a little higher tread depth around for when the dust or crumbs come out on a drier night. My operating theory is that I can't re-arrange the car's weight distribution through the night reliably, so I just always setup the rear for the slickest possible conditions, and then meeter steering out based on how aggressive of a tire I run.

If I were running on something consistently high grip and smooth, I would be running a shorty forward as well.
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:42 PM   #9128
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Im on the fence with saddles. While I agree heavier cars can be easier to drive I also think they can make a problem worse with the additional weight transfer. A slide could be more pronounced on a car with saddles because the can has ~80 more grams to deal with. Heavier doesn't mean more traction especially when it's in the same area that a shorty can occupy. The cool thing about the new chassis is that you actually mount the battery almost 10mm further back than you can with saddles.
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:08 PM   #9129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Im on the fence with saddles. While I agree heavier cars can be easier to drive I also think they can make a problem worse with the additional weight transfer. A slide could be more pronounced on a car with saddles because the can has ~80 more grams to deal with. Heavier doesn't mean more traction especially when it's in the same area that a shorty can occupy. The cool thing about the new chassis is that you actually mount the battery almost 10mm further back than you can with saddles.
It is something I'm actually very interested in trying: shorty further back. That is one of the reasons I went saddles with the motor plate mod. We're working on getting the bumps out of our racing surface and if that happens, the extra weight may be worth less.

Wayne
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Old 12-26-2013, 08:47 AM   #9130
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i managed to get a set of the new MM suspension braces with the pill inserts. i want to try running the narrow position (same position as exotek narrow bocks) would that be the C-in C-in position?. i have the sheet and the petitrc links but still trying to make sure, its kinda confusing. the local fast sponsored kid at my track said he really likes the narrow position so, that sounds good to start with. what settings are you guys running. sorry i know this topic has been talked about already
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:50 AM   #9131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
i managed to get a set of the new MM suspension braces with the pill inserts. i want to try running the narrow position (same position as exotek narrow bocks) would that be the C-in C-in position?. i have the sheet and the petitrc links but still trying to make sure, its kinda confusing. the local fast sponsored kid at my track said he really likes the narrow position so, that sounds good to start with. what settings are you guys running. sorry i know this topic has been talked about already
I just looked at the chart and inC on both hangers should be that same as the narrow hangers. Seems that you can go a little more narrow and a little more wider with the new adjustable hangers if you want to.

I was going to go with the A pills in both hangers to put me middle of the road so to say. I ended up going with RF/A and RR/inC for 2 degrees of rear toe and then added the .5 hubs. Seems to work pretty good so far.
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:57 AM   #9132
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yes I see. i have .5 hubs as well to toss into the mix if needed. in the past i ran the stock wide blocks with the .5 hubs and it really locked it in, i could lay down much more power. i am on a medium traction layout so i will have to stay at 3.0 or 3.5 toe most likely.
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Old 12-26-2013, 10:03 AM   #9133
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Try B-in/A
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Old 12-26-2013, 11:07 AM   #9134
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Default rb6

Do you guys think there will be an updated or Worlds Kit RB6 anytime soon?
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Old 12-26-2013, 12:19 PM   #9135
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I don't see why. There's nothing on his car that we don't already have access to.
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