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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-01-2012, 01:14 PM   #886
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looks like you had a little on power push?
yeah some still looking for the right tire to run up front . car is nice and smooth on the track . was TQ and won the main so all in all not bad first run . got to the track late so only got about two packs through it . it will only get better thou
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:16 PM   #887
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Might help to point out which car is yours....
he posted pics a page or two back.. he's the gray car in the #1 spot
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:28 PM   #888
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would the kit springs be a good starting point for mid motor?
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:51 PM   #889
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would the kit springs be a good starting point for mid motor?
It would work yes... but certainly wouldn't be ideal. If I had to guess, I would say white fronts, and gold rears. Without a spring balance test it would be hard to say for sure.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:59 PM   #890
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would the kit springs be a good starting point for mid motor?
ur main issue with the stock red springs would be they would be too stiff IMO, due to the fact you no longer have the weight of the motor and tranny hanging off the rear end so forward bite would suffer, you would have to go to a lighter spring in the rear to compensate, and now with the motor and tranny sitting forward that means more weight to the front so you would want a stiffer spring there as was stated by CPT america. you could try to drive it with stock springs but i think you would have a ton of steering and your rear wouldnt stay behind ya lol
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:01 PM   #891
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sir, you don't even have the car and are already giving advice? i love it. i can't wait until you get your car up and going. i doubt there i will be any running in my area so help here is fantastic.

p.s. there is no sarcasm in this post, i really do appreciate it.
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:09 PM   #892
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Originally Posted by savageboy69 View Post
ur main issue with the stock red springs would be they would be too stiff IMO, due to the fact you no longer have the weight of the motor and tranny hanging off the rear end so forward bite would suffer, you would have to go to a lighter spring in the rear to compensate, and now with the motor and tranny sitting forward that means more weight to the front so you would want a stiffer spring there as was stated by CPT america. you could try to drive it with stock springs but i think you would have a ton of steering and your rear wouldnt stay behind ya lol
thank you
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:51 PM   #893
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the stock springs on this car are very nice and should work just fine for the mid motor . when i built my car i used the 6 hole pistons with losi 25 wt front and rear . my next change will be to use the shorty packs i think it will benefit the handling and balance i have two packs coming this week . we run a very tight clay track .
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:51 PM   #894
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You ran the Tebo setup with the stock RB6 arms?

Also, are you saying your RB6 hero lap was 0.3 faster than your RB5+10 hero lap?
Yes. That was stock arms w/.5 hubs . Rear shock position was inside on the arm. High bite indoor clay running worn beams rear and scrubs front
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:53 PM   #895
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What size shock ends did you use by chance for the front and rear? When I looked at Tebo's setup, I could not achieve 27mm in between the bottom of the shock and the rod end on the rear. The rod end could not screw on far enough. Any help???

Thanks,

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I ran the Tebo set up and got the distance in his set up. I do not have it handy. Having said that the team drivers had the longer ones on in the rear. Not sure what that difference would be
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:06 PM   #896
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FYI guys you are definitely going to want the aluminum rear arm mounts the stock plastic ones are fat and limit ur motor adjustments also they seem to pull out during racing so make sure you check them after every run . i found one of my older aluminum arm mounts and put it on. so next time the car will be more consistent during the race . and with the aluminum arm mount i can run the pinon i want to . i am able to go from a 22 tooth to a 31 where as with the plastic i was only able to use the 29 tooth as my smallest .
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:08 PM   #897
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Are the longer eyelets stock in the kit or the shorter?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad S. View Post
What size shock ends did you use by chance for the front and rear? When I looked at Tebo's setup, I could not achieve 27mm in between the bottom of the shock and the rod end on the rear. The rod end could not screw on far enough. Any help???

Thanks,

Brad
Quote:
Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
Are the kit shock ends the "short" ones? Part number KYOW5015?

thanks
The kit comes with M for the front and L for the rear. I believe Tebo ran S in the front and M in the rear at the Nats but I'd have to double-check.
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:08 PM   #898
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Originally Posted by Brad S. View Post
What size shock ends did you use by chance for the front and rear? When I looked at Tebo's setup, I could not achieve 27mm in between the bottom of the shock and the rod end on the rear. The rod end could not screw on far enough. Any help???

Thanks,

Brad
USUALLY...(i can't say for sure in this instance), tebo measures from the bottom of the bottom shock cap, to the TOP of the rod end. Basically, the overall length of shock shaft that shows when its fully extended. If you combine THAT number, while using the same shock ends... you have your setup. It's all in efforts to achieve a certain amount of droop. If you have a link to the setup sheet you're reading, I'd be happy to look at it to confirm... (its of course possible he measured it a different way.. just going on past tebo setups iv looked at)
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:14 PM   #899
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FYI guys you are definitely going to want the aluminum rear arm mounts the stock plastic ones are fat and limit ur motor adjustments also they seem to pull out during racing so make sure you check them after every run . i found one of my older aluminum arm mounts and put it on. so next time the car will be more consistent during the race . and with the aluminum arm mount i can run the pinon i want to . i am able to go from a 22 tooth to a 31 where as with the plastic i was only able to use the 29 tooth as my smallest .
Are you referring to the suspension hangers? If so, do you know if the ones from the RB5 are a direct swap onto the RB6?
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:21 PM   #900
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If they are a direct drop on....which ones are they? The Amain web site has several choices under the rb6 parts pages....rr, rf, wide etc. I only want to buy one set of rear inner and outer if possible....
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Last edited by Posvar; 10-01-2012 at 07:34 PM.
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