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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-10-2013, 12:11 PM   #8911
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Yeah pretty close
Thank you.
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:35 PM   #8912
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Originally Posted by kes7u View Post
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that chart indicate that B-out is RF2?
B-out kit setting rf2 as I see it
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:34 PM   #8913
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Originally Posted by kes7u View Post
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that chart indicate that B-out is RF2?
Ok this is confusing.

Aren't 'RF2', 'RR2' essentially 'wide'?

UMW514 and UMW515 are 'aluminum wide RF/RR suspension holders'. But according to the chart one uses out-Cs for 'wide'.

UM508C is the gear box set tree, which comes with both narrow and wide plastic hangers.

So which is 'wide' as we know it, out-Bs or out-Cs?
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:52 PM   #8914
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Wide as we know it from the RB5 is c-out.

The the wide hangers in the rb6 kit are not as wide as the previous rf2.

To duplicate the wide kit hangers run b-out.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:25 PM   #8915
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Originally Posted by iMarky View Post
so im build my shocks and i notice that the ball shocks dont fit tight/snug is this normal ?

also comes with that crappy plastic nut to hold the shocks..

my losi 22 had a nice snap/tight snug fit but still moved around with no binding ...


exotek makes some really nice delrin shock ball mounts for the rb6. they make em in red alloy too, but i prefer the black delrin ones:

http://www.exotekracing.com/rb6-shock-post-set/
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:32 PM   #8916
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yea, all that talk about the rear hangers has me confused as well. I think i'll just go with the exotek set.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:34 PM   #8917
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Default Kyosho Sell Out

KYOSHO SELL OUT RB6 MID AND REAR MOTOR SCR-SP + PARTS LOT
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:55 PM   #8918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenng View Post
exotek makes some really nice delrin shock ball mounts for the rb6. they make em in red alloy too, but i prefer the black delrin ones:

http://www.exotekracing.com/rb6-shock-post-set/
I think changes have been made with the RT6 kit.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:59 PM   #8919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Tomczyk View Post
Wide as we know it from the RB5 is c-out.

The the wide hangers in the rb6 kit are not as wide as the previous rf2.

To duplicate the wide kit hangers run b-out.
Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2013, 11:11 PM   #8920
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nice thanks for the advices guys..


also i did my shocks now that the ball holder on the top is flatten down i still have play back and forth is that normal ? some guy at the track said its suppose to have back and forth play so the shocks work better

might put and O ring rubber so it wont slide back and forth
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Old 12-10-2013, 11:17 PM   #8921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iMarky View Post
nice thanks for the advices guys..


also i did my shocks now that the ball holder on the top is flatten down i still have play back and forth is that normal ? some guy at the track said its suppose to have back and forth play so the shocks work better

might put and O ring rubber so it wont slide back and forth
After using a metal washer and metal nut my shocks maybe have 1-2mm of play to slide front to rear, anything less then that I could see causing some slight binding, if its just a little bit of movement and the shocks still rotate around the ball then you'll be fine. Taking out all the play will give you issues.
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Old 12-10-2013, 11:50 PM   #8922
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Originally Posted by VenturaDC View Post
After using a metal washer and metal nut my shocks maybe have 1-2mm of play to slide front to rear, anything less then that I could see causing some slight binding, if its just a little bit of movement and the shocks still rotate around the ball then you'll be fine. Taking out all the play will give you issues.
i see.. yeah im getting about 1/2mm of play.. i dont want it too tight/bind.. ill fix that.. seems like 1/2mm of play is a lot.. for me that is..
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Old 12-11-2013, 12:15 AM   #8923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VenturaDC View Post
After using a metal washer and metal nut my shocks maybe have 1-2mm of play to slide front to rear, anything less then that I could see causing some slight binding, if its just a little bit of movement and the shocks still rotate around the ball then you'll be fine. Taking out all the play will give you issues.
To each their own but I only use metal ball at the bottom of the front shock only, where it goes through the a-arm. To minimize wear and tear.

I prefer to use plastic nut at the end of the top tower screw, so when I crash I'll rather the nut give way than broken shock top (happened before). I wouldn't recommend nylocks at all. JC makes a tree of 3mm plastic lock nuts. Cheers,
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:54 AM   #8924
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Last night I decided to fix one of my RB6s as a part broke. Instead I decided to switch one out to mid motor. I do OK with rear motor, but I am not consistent and loop out a lot. Im sure a lot of it is practice. I figured it couldn't hurt to check it out though and it may suit me. I'm running a Tekin RS with 13.5 turn Tekin Gen 1.

First test is going to be Roar regionals this weekend.





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Old 12-12-2013, 05:50 AM   #8925
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Originally Posted by jamesbernatchez View Post
Last night I decided to fix one of my RB6s as a part broke. Instead I decided to switch one out to mid motor. I do OK with rear motor, but I am not consistent and loop out a lot. Im sure a lot of it is practice. I figured it couldn't hurt to check it out though and it may suit me. I'm running a Tekin RS with 13.5 turn Tekin Gen 1.

First test is going to be Roar regionals this weekend.





I have my tekin esc mounted exactly like you do. Do you have a problem with the stock body rubbing the capacitor?
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