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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-08-2013, 04:05 PM   #8866
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nickdawg18 " I think im gonna try 29° of caster this weekend to tame the steering. Has anyone tried 34° of caster? Is it way too much?"

When you say you have too much steering is it more entering a turn or mid to exit? I found a better balance with my rb6 is to lengthen the front camber link to the middle hole with 1mm inside and outside. It took a little away from initial but gave me more mid to exit.

I have tried 30 degrees of caster before and thought the car got lazy up front. I haven't tried 27 degrees yet but have been wanting too.
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:06 PM   #8867
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so im build my shocks and i notice that the ball shocks dont fit tight/snug is this normal ?

also comes with that crappy plastic nut to hold the shocks..

my losi 22 had a nice snap/tight snug fit but still moved around with no binding ...

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Old 12-08-2013, 04:31 PM   #8868
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I had to use metal nuts with small washer, it squeezes to ball to a perfect fit
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:13 PM   #8869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Flat arms are "firmer" than the kit gull wing arms. The biggest difference is how they roll less in the corners and allow you to corner harder. If you are on a track that has anything resembling traction, you want the flat arms. IF you are constantly on low traction, the kit arms may be better.

On our track, most of us use flat arms. I've tried both and honestly it just feels like you're running a much lower roll center if you run the kit arms. It's just a tuning aid.

The reason the arms do this (in my view) is the difference in progression. Gull wing arms are like laying the shocks down, flat arms are like standing them up.

If you want to run the flat arms (UM521-1), you will need to run the short shock eyelet end and ream out the 'hinge pin capture' on the outside of the arm with a reamer. Takes like just a few twists and it's done. Then use 2mm spacers on each side of the outer hinge pins before the nuts. Alternatively you can purchase the right hinge pins for those arms and get some 1.5 head capture screws, but that requires you buy stuff, so nobody I know does that.

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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
You might try going up to 24mm in the rear if the track is that slick.
Good info thanks, changing brands gotta learn all the ins and outs of the Kyosho
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:40 PM   #8870
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Originally Posted by trickedyfz450 View Post
nickdawg18 " I think im gonna try 29° of caster this weekend to tame the steering. Has anyone tried 34° of caster? Is it way too much?"

When you say you have too much steering is it more entering a turn or mid to exit? I found a better balance with my rb6 is to lengthen the front camber link to the middle hole with 1mm inside and outside. It took a little away from initial but gave me more mid to exit.

I have tried 30 degrees of caster before and thought the car got lazy up front. I haven't tried 27 degrees yet but have been wanting too.
I'm of the opinion that you should use caster to tune high speed or "total" steering only. "Tameness" is really more of a "initial turn in" type of thing, and that is best adjusted via front camber and front roll center in my opinion.

A lower front roll center will smooth out the responsiveness and aggressiveness of the steering. It will also add some low speed steering mid corner (while you're already deep in the turn and want as much steering as possible to prevent pushing).

Zero front camber gives the most responsive steering. More negative camber makes the car far more plush and smooth up front. -2 is about the most I run ever. In most cases, I run -1 and go up or down a half or whole degree to fine tune initial steering.

I would suggest picking the caster that gives you the most net steering for your layout. From there, add negative camber or lower the front RC (lower link 1mm on spindles or raise 1mm at inside brace) to smooth things out. It's a very reliable way to get a good balance of the best of both worlds.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:55 PM   #8871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trickedyfz450 View Post
nickdawg18 " I think im gonna try 29° of caster this weekend to tame the steering. Has anyone tried 34° of caster? Is it way too much?"

When you say you have too much steering is it more entering a turn or mid to exit? I found a better balance with my rb6 is to lengthen the front camber link to the middle hole with 1mm inside and outside. It took a little away from initial but gave me more mid to exit.

I have tried 30 degrees of caster before and thought the car got lazy up front. I haven't tried 27 degrees yet but have been wanting too.
I already have the camber link on the front bulkhead in the middle hole. I'm gonna try 29* and see what happens. If it doesn't change I'll go to 2mm under the bulkhead ball stud.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:57 PM   #8872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I'm of the opinion that you should use caster to tune high speed or "total" steering only. "Tameness" is really more of a "initial turn in" type of thing, and that is best adjusted via front camber and front roll center in my opinion.

A lower front roll center will smooth out the responsiveness and aggressiveness of the steering. It will also add some low speed steering mid corner (while you're already deep in the turn and want as much steering as possible to prevent pushing).

Zero front camber gives the most responsive steering. More negative camber makes the car far more plush and smooth up front. -2 is about the most I run ever. In most cases, I run -1 and go up or down a half or whole degree to fine tune initial steering.

I would suggest picking the caster that gives you the most net steering for your layout. From there, add negative camber or lower the front RC (lower link 1mm on spindles or raise 1mm at inside brace) to smooth things out. It's a very reliable way to get a good balance of the best of both worlds.
Would lowering the roll center with dropping the front hinge pin holder work as well? I have it in the car now but cannot run it until tuesday. Gonna have a tune day and this is one thing I wanted to try (dropped it 1 mm from stock setup with no shim).
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:00 PM   #8873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I'm of the opinion that you should use caster to tune high speed or "total" steering only. "Tameness" is really more of a "initial turn in" type of thing, and that is best adjusted via front camber and front roll center in my opinion.

A lower front roll center will smooth out the responsiveness and aggressiveness of the steering. It will also add some low speed steering mid corner (while you're already deep in the turn and want as much steering as possible to prevent pushing).

Zero front camber gives the most responsive steering. More negative camber makes the car far more plush and smooth up front. -2 is about the most I run ever. In most cases, I run -1 and go up or down a half or whole degree to fine tune initial steering.

I would suggest picking the caster that gives you the most net steering for your layout. From there, add negative camber or lower the front RC (lower link 1mm on spindles or raise 1mm at inside brace) to smooth things out. It's a very reliable way to get a good balance of the best of both worlds.
I'm running on a carpet track, mid motor, shorty. When I would go into a fast turn the body would roll hard. I never lost traction but I'm sure the inside wheels were close to coming off the track. A lower roll center would help fight this?
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:28 PM   #8874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickdawg18 View Post
I'm running on a carpet track, mid motor, shorty. When I would go into a fast turn the body would roll hard. I never lost traction but I'm sure the inside wheels were close to coming off the track. A lower roll center would help fight this?
No. Roll center adjustments are most effective when your car is starting to roll and least effective when it is already rolled. Roll center is basically the leverage the outside wheel has to pull the chassis over via the camber link and acquire more weight on the outside wheel. If your inside shock is already fully extended, your car is done rolling until it traction rolls. A lower roll center will only cause it to arrive there sooner. Now, a HIGHER roll center, which will produce less roll, MAY keep the car from fully rolling till later, but generally speaking, total roll at the extreme is a function of shock limiters (or sway bars, which are obviously not applicable here).

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Old 12-08-2013, 10:15 PM   #8875
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[QUOTE=iMarky;12795642]so im build my shocks and i notice that the ball shocks dont fit tight/snug is this normal ?

also comes with that crappy plastic nut to hold the shocks..

my losi 22 had a nice snap/tight snug fit but still moved around with no binding ...

Yes. You want the shocks to have a little play in them. This way they don't bind. Also don't replace the plastic nut with metal.
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Old 12-08-2013, 11:39 PM   #8876
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Any rumors about an updated rb6,anytime soon?
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Old 12-09-2013, 12:39 AM   #8877
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What are the wide and narrow equivalents when using the mounting blocks with the plastic inserts? For instance, tebos worlds setup calls for a/ b outside what is that besides 3.5 toe?
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Old 12-09-2013, 03:54 AM   #8878
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
What are the wide and narrow equivalents when using the mounting blocks with the plastic inserts? For instance, tebos worlds setup calls for a/ b outside what is that besides 3.5 toe?
You can use the rear blocks to change the track width of the car as well as the toe.
For example you can run 3.5 but run a narrower or wider rear track width.
Using track width you can widen the rear of your car and it increases rear grip and high speed steering.
Narrowing it is increases rear grip on tighter turns. It also induces a bit of high-speed understeer.

I have tried both and run Tebo's set up which is in the middle of the adjustment spectrum.
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:53 AM   #8879
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[QUOTE=Mxpdx;12796759]
Quote:
Originally Posted by iMarky View Post
so im build my shocks and i notice that the ball shocks dont fit tight/snug is this normal ?

also comes with that crappy plastic nut to hold the shocks..

my losi 22 had a nice snap/tight snug fit but still moved around with no binding ...

Yes. You want the shocks to have a little play in them. This way they don't bind. Also don't replace the plastic nut with metal.
Why do you say that? I've been using metal nuts on the shocks for 2yrs with my rb5 and now the last few months with the 6, it lets me tighten up the top enough to get rid of the excessive slop, the still move like butter and feels way more consistent.
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Old 12-09-2013, 01:18 PM   #8880
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Hey guys looking to get one of these RB6 kits.

Are there any immediate upgrades and spares that you would recommend? I'm looking for a relatively low maintenance kit to run (read: high quality, durable) and I like the layout and shocks etc. of this kit and of course... it's a Kyosho so it will perform.

Would like to buy the kit plus any upgrades and a few spares right off the bat.
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