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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0į/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-05-2013, 08:21 PM   #8836
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Originally Posted by ovalracer1m View Post
Yes, I personally run this same servo. Been running the same servo for 2 yrs and is still going strong in 2wd buggy
ok thanks...


also guys what the benefit of using the straight rear arm and not the stock gull wing arm? might just add it to my cart but it says it requires to use a rear hub for it.. will the stock hubs work or i have to get that rear hub ?

thanks
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:11 PM   #8837
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yeah I was talking about the rear rear suspension hangers. The new ones with the inserts. I will be getting both wide and narrow.
there is one front and two rear susp. blocks depending on mid or rear motor. There is no wide and narrow ones with inserts. The inserts are used to adjust if you want wide or narrow plus toe can be adjusted also
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:19 PM   #8838
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Originally Posted by fullout View Post
there is one front and two rear susp. blocks depending on mid or rear motor. There is no wide and narrow ones with inserts. The inserts are used to adjust if you want wide or narrow plus toe can be adjusted also
Ok I just realize that. lol This is what happens when you have to study for all these exams. Thanks fellas! my brain needs a rest
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:56 PM   #8839
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Chees for that and I am guessing they are a direct fit and I won't need to do anything else?
if you want to use the JC wheels and remain legal to IFMAR standards and also keep the same width as the standard rims here is what you need to do

Front

- with the standard RB6 axle you need to bevel at 45 deg the plastic spindle so the wheel does not rub. 30 seconds with the dremel and a sanding drum on the outside edge of the spindle.

you need to run the plastic cone shim inside and also another .3mm shim between it and the bearing inside also. on the outside I have a .2mm shim. this keeps you legal and allows the JC wheel to run without interference

Rear

- with JC wheel that rear track is 2mm narrower. use either a TC wheel hex spacer of 1mm each side before you put the wheel on or use UMW523GM wide hub
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:36 AM   #8840
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Ok thanks for that.

So I am now guessing after Goggling and also searching this thread there isn’t a front and rear wheel that is a direct fit without some messing around?
Not even AKA or DE Racing wheels?
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Old 12-06-2013, 05:34 AM   #8841
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
Ok thanks for that.

So I am now guessing after Goggling and also searching this thread there isnít a front and rear wheel that is a direct fit without some messing around?
Not even AKA or DE Racing wheels?
Aside from the stock wheels, no not really.

The aka fronts for Kyosho are pretty close to a direct fit, but it's the rears that aren't. Need to used a low profile wheel nut instead of the stock one, and then you're pretty much good to go.

I heard that on the new AKA wheels, they made some changes, but I haven't got them yet to be sure.
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:36 AM   #8842
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Aside from the stock wheels, no not really.

The aka fronts for Kyosho are pretty close to a direct fit, but it's the rears that aren't. Need to used a low profile wheel nut instead of the stock one, and then you're pretty much good to go.

I heard that on the new AKA wheels, they made some changes, but I haven't got them yet to be sure.
Just get the Avid axles and be done with it.
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:47 AM   #8843
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Just get the Avid axles and be done with it.
That'll work too. Know a few guys that have done that.

Me, I'd just go with the LP wheels nuts and use the cash I just saved my self for more wheels and tires. LOL.
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:10 AM   #8844
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Less than a month for the rtr, what do you think?
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:24 PM   #8845
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Hey guys I know this has been said a hundred times but what is the diff in handling in the stock rear arms and the flat rear arms thanks Jimmy..
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:42 PM   #8846
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Hey guys I know this has been said a hundred times but what is the diff in handling in the stock rear arms and the flat rear arms thanks Jimmy..
I was wondering the same thing. I got a rb6 on order for my son for xmas
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:04 PM   #8847
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Hey guys I know this has been said a hundred times but what is the diff in handling in the stock rear arms and the flat rear arms thanks Jimmy..
Flat arms are "firmer" than the kit gull wing arms. The biggest difference is how they roll less in the corners and allow you to corner harder. If you are on a track that has anything resembling traction, you want the flat arms. IF you are constantly on low traction, the kit arms may be better.

On our track, most of us use flat arms. I've tried both and honestly it just feels like you're running a much lower roll center if you run the kit arms. It's just a tuning aid.

The reason the arms do this (in my view) is the difference in progression. Gull wing arms are like laying the shocks down, flat arms are like standing them up.

If you want to run the flat arms (UM521-1), you will need to run the short shock eyelet end and ream out the 'hinge pin capture' on the outside of the arm with a reamer. Takes like just a few twists and it's done. Then use 2mm spacers on each side of the outer hinge pins before the nuts. Alternatively you can purchase the right hinge pins for those arms and get some 1.5 head capture screws, but that requires you buy stuff, so nobody I know does that.

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Old 12-06-2013, 01:18 PM   #8848
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Tebo is back with Kyosho for another 5 years
WOOHOO
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:26 PM   #8849
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So since I run on a slick track with no traction the kit arm should work better, And seeing how I ran them back to back the night before last I did like the stock arms better,seemed like it was more consistant since the track is preety slick..
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:35 PM   #8850
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So since I run on a slick track with no traction the kit arm should work better, And seeing how I ran them back to back the night before last I did like the stock arms better,seemed like it was more consistant since the track is preety slick..
You might try going up to 24mm in the rear if the track is that slick.
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