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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-03-2013, 11:53 AM   #8806
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18 View Post
My plan with the buggy is to start with the box setup but I figured since i'm going to be running on a smooth carpet track that right off the bat I'm going to put in yellow front springs and red rear springs 30wt losi in the front and 25 losi wt in the rear. Mid motor setup. with the avid slipper setup. I havnt got an aluminum steering setup yet, what do you guys reccommend?
Have a look at the chris slevin Silverstone set up on petit dude I use it with a bit less weight in the car and red rear springs instead of yellow you'll need lazer fs rear arms though with an extra inner hole put in
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:54 PM   #8807
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I've never ran on carpet with my rb6 mid motor, but on medium grip dirt, I run losi 30 front and 25 rear with pink fronts and gold rears. I am going to wager an educated guess that the increased grip of carpet and (OR!) stiffer springs is going to demand thicker oil than I run. I bet you'll be on 35/30 when you're done.
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:50 PM   #8808
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I've never ran on carpet with my rb6 mid motor, but on medium grip dirt, I run losi 30 front and 25 rear with pink fronts and gold rears. I am going to wager an educated guess that the increased grip of carpet and (OR!) stiffer springs is going to demand thicker oil than I run. I bet you'll be on 35/30 when you're done.
Bit thicker 40/30 seems the sweet spot 4/1.3 ghea pistons gonna try +10% pistons in the rear next time out with 27.5 see if the balance is still there
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:12 PM   #8809
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There's a reason it's your 6th car. Love my kyosho 10 x more than my b4.
6th car? All my 2wd 4wd 1/8 have been k cars!! A b4 and a yokomo were my first 2 cars!! So idk where your gettin ur info from at all if you do know me then take it up with me at the track everyone knows I know how to tune/drive/and maintain my cars down to the last bolt!! The 6 is not a consistent car!! I was the last one standing when all the others sold theirs!! If your not on a hooked up track. It's not consistent!! Just stating the facts on my side. I can't speak for everyone else on here. Just not my type of 2wd
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:02 PM   #8810
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I ordered it and cancelled it soon after. Can you post pics once you have yours. Its good for a mid motor car but I run mine RM so wanted to see a racers rig rather than the factory pics .
I have one, it looks like it should work just fine for both rear and mid motor. The body looks a lot like a stealth aircraft (have not decided if that is a good or bad thing) the dorcial fin is just odd looking.
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:05 PM   #8811
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I have one, it looks like it should work just fine for both rear and mid motor. The body looks a lot like a stealth aircraft (have not decided if that is a good or bad thing) the dorcial fin is just odd looking.
hahah I would like it I think, I like the FTW one for the b4.1 it looks kick ass so this seems the closest.
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:10 PM   #8812
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Originally Posted by Chris-s View Post
Strange that you are cracking the wheels. I have wheels that are over a year old now and have been used multiple items. What glue are you using and if you are removing the tyres, how are you doing it?
I remove the tyres with acetone and use muchmore tyre glue. Nothing different from when I had my TLR cars.
Not that I am super annoyed at it. Just would be nice to get more than one run out of a wheel though as Kyosho parts are not the easiest to get in a hurry in Australia

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It is perfectly normal to crack the inside bead of a wheel--its the weakest part. Wheels don't last forever. When I go to soak tires off wheels to reuse wheels, it's normal that fronts sometimes are not reusable. Its less common on rears. I've had this happen on every brand of wheel.
Yeah it is mainly the front ones for me too but I stripped 3 sets of rear wheels yesterday and 3 out of the 6 wheels have cracks in them
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:29 AM   #8813
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I run MM and I just ordered the RF and RR Rear Suspension Holders. What letter bushings should I use to gain more rear traction? Thanks
Should I run Narrow or Wide? What Bushing should I use?
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:38 AM   #8814
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Should I run Narrow or Wide? What Bushing should I use?
It will come with a set of instructions to tell you what pills are the stock RF2 mounts. Work from there going more narrow for more low speed grip in corners, or leave the track width relatively the same and just add a half degree of toe-in for a little more on power traction.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:41 AM   #8815
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
It will come with a set of instructions to tell you what pills are the stock RF2 mounts. Work from there going more narrow for more low speed grip in corners, or leave the track width relatively the same and just add a half degree of toe-in for a little more on power traction.
Thanks for the advice!
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Old 12-04-2013, 12:27 PM   #8816
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
It will come with a set of instructions to tell you what pills are the stock RF2 mounts. Work from there going more narrow for more low speed grip in corners, or leave the track width relatively the same and just add a half degree of toe-in for a little more on power traction.
Ha ha,

Your post just made go and look at that sheet as I just recently switched to the adjustable blocks. Never paid attention to what their reference was for. Always learning something. Though their chart had me stumped for a bit and now taking another look at the sheet after your post, it makes a lot more sense.

Just for fun I set mine up with the A pill in the RF and in-C for the RR in MM, with .5 hubs. Seems pretty good so far. Was going to go with the A pills in both the RF and RR just to be middle of the road so to say.

There's no lack of adjustments with the adjustable mounts. Almost too many. LOL.
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Old 12-04-2013, 12:28 PM   #8817
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
I remove the tyres with acetone and use muchmore tyre glue. Nothing different from when I had my TLR cars.
Not that I am super annoyed at it. Just would be nice to get more than one run out of a wheel though as Kyosho parts are not the easiest to get in a hurry in Australia



Yeah it is mainly the front ones for me too but I stripped 3 sets of rear wheels yesterday and 3 out of the 6 wheels have cracks in them
Run the jconcepts mono wheels thenbit cheaper for the Aussie guys from tower hobbies with intl discounts. The rears are a bit wider but the fronts line up correct. Never broken a front fro m that brand.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:44 PM   #8818
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Run the jconcepts mono wheels thenbit cheaper for the Aussie guys from tower hobbies with intl discounts. The rears are a bit wider but the fronts line up correct. Never broken a front fro m that brand.
Chees for that and I am guessing they are a direct fit and I won't need to do anything else?
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:37 PM   #8819
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
Chees for that and I am guessing they are a direct fit and I won't need to do anything else?
Just a shorter wheel nut or avid axels
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:57 PM   #8820
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Just a shorter wheel nut or avid axels
So that would be the Avid RC Kyosho HD Long Rear Axle Conversion?
Also do you know what the part number for the wheel nuts would be if I went that route?

Would Proline Velocity front and rears be a direct fit or will they need the longer axle?

cheers for the help guys
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