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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0į/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-19-2013, 10:38 AM   #8701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
I did notice this No.UMW604 Diff Gear Set (ULTIMA SC/DB/RB/RT)
Blade body as well. Also whatever the VVC thing is


Looks like it's a lightweight version body. .06" thick maybe?
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Last edited by K_King; 11-19-2013 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:42 PM   #8702
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Blade body as well. Also whatever the VVC thing is


Looks like it's a lightweight version body. .06" thick maybe?
UMW718 will be a new aluminum idle gear for mid
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:08 PM   #8703
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Originally Posted by nitroargi View Post
UMW718 will be a new aluminum idle gear for mid
What's the benefit to that?
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:23 PM   #8704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
I measure the height of the hinge pin from the chassis when I shim the rear 2mm it gave me an equal measurement front to rear of the hinge pin giving you 0 degree anti-squat..

I have been fine tuning my TC and the degree of the squat is = to the thickness of the shims..
good to know from someone that has actually measured it. So on your MM setup, you are raising the rear block 2.5mm and also raising the rear bulkhead tower 1mm with the skid shim? So how much spacers are you using between the transcase and the chassis to equal out the height of the assembly?
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:46 PM   #8705
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
What's the benefit to that?
From what Iíve been told in MM set ups the extra idler gear adds weakness to the transmission so it would be to strengthen that I would say but could be way off
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:25 PM   #8706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
From what Iíve been told in MM set ups the extra idler gear adds weakness to the transmission so it would be to strengthen that I would say but could be way off
Ciao,

KalEl63 is right. I have been running MM since RB6 was out and i snap at least 4 of them.

Best regards,
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:17 PM   #8707
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Any of you who run on carpet or real high grip have tips on freeing up the rear? I'm on the 2nd shortest link in the rear already, turn in is good, but not mid corner.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:03 PM   #8708
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Quote:
Any of you who run on carpet or real high grip have tips on freeing up the rear? I'm on the 2nd shortest link in the rear already, turn in is good, but not mid corner.
I don't run carpet but, if you run kyosho wheels with a low profile wheel nut you can add a spacer between the hex and the wheel. Touring cars use them or try wider hex. Try 1mm per side. Big increase in mid corner steer.

Second option would be add a shim under the front lower bulkhead.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:04 AM   #8709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovalracer1m View Post
Most accurate answer I could find without measuring myself.

From Oople


"Definitely 2deg with no spacers under either RF or RR blocks.
Shims are 0.5mm thick which equates to 0.75deg per shim (1.5deg per mm) - if you want to get really accurate it's actually moves between 0.71 & 0.78deg due to the swept angle changing too but most people use 0.75 without issue"


So I have read where some people say 1mm gives 1 deg and where most say .5mm gives 1 deg.
The statement from oOple is from myself.
How I got to those numbers when I was designing the Scorpion MM RB5 converstion....

Wishbone 32
ball 4
(edge-centre
of ball)
Total width 40

So therefore;

Height Pin angle
difference
-0.5 -0.716
0.0 0.000
0.5 0.716
1.0 1.433
1.5 2.149
2.0 2.866

Hope that helps.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:11 AM   #8710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
The statement from oOple is from myself.
How I got to those numbers when I was designing the Scorpion MM RB5 converstion....

Wishbone 32
ball 4
(edge-centre
of ball)
Total width 40

So therefore;

Height Pin angle
difference
-0.5 -0.716
0.0 0.000
0.5 0.716
1.0 1.433
1.5 2.149
2.0 2.866

Hope that helps.
Wow. That's news. So each 0.5mm shim is +/- 0.7 deg? IIRC, Tebo's setup sheets had 0.5mm as +/- 1 deg. Cheers,
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:14 AM   #8711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lore View Post
Ciao,

KalEl63 is right. I have been running MM since RB6 was out and i snap at least 4 of them.

Best regards,
Cheers mate. So I can put off the MM conversion until K releases the steels.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:15 AM   #8712
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To free up rear on very high side bite surfaces;

Less rear toe (especially useful if done from inboard as also slightly lengthens wheelbase),
Longer wheelbase from rear and/or move centre of mass forward depending on how tight the layout is,
Increase rear oil by 50cst (or 50cst additional over any increase in front oil),
Longer rear link (so rolls slower thus can change direction faster),
Raise inner ball studs BOTH ends of the car (gives the effect of more on power steering which makes the rear feel freer),
Stiffer rear spring (or move lower shock out on rear arm as this gives added benefit of reducing rear droop too),
Reduce overall droop but slightly more reduction in the rear (less roll over all but relatively less in the rear helps rotation),
Take weight out of the car (less force from mass loading the same width tires = less overall grip),
Increase antisquat (less rearward weight transfer under power keeps the front working harder),
Increase rear track width (again best done from inside end as that helps with roll centre placement too),

That is the list of what I do between my normal MM setup and going somewhere like Silverstone which is velcro grippy!!
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:21 AM   #8713
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Hey guys, ive bought an rb6 and have almost finished the build. Do you guys actually grease the cvd end into the diff outdrive? Wouldnt that just attract dirt and promote wear?? And also in the kits instructions it doesnt say what shock oils run front or rear!? Do you have a base line starting point for me?? The info is much appreciated, im a nitro dude and this is my first electric kit im just wanting to do it right.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:21 AM   #8714
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Does anyone know if a company makes a weight that bolts onto the back of the rear bulkhead for a mid motor setup? Something like the Losi 22
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Last edited by carbons2k; 11-20-2013 at 06:14 AM.
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:57 AM   #8715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
To free up rear on very high side bite surfaces;

Less rear toe (especially useful if done from inboard as also slightly lengthens wheelbase),
Longer wheelbase from rear and/or move centre of mass forward depending on how tight the layout is,
Increase rear oil by 50cst (or 50cst additional over any increase in front oil),
Longer rear link (so rolls slower thus can change direction faster),
Raise inner ball studs BOTH ends of the car (gives the effect of more on power steering which makes the rear feel freer),
Stiffer rear spring (or move lower shock out on rear arm as this gives added benefit of reducing rear droop too),
Reduce overall droop but slightly more reduction in the rear (less roll over all but relatively less in the rear helps rotation),
Take weight out of the car (less force from mass loading the same width tires = less overall grip),
Increase antisquat (less rearward weight transfer under power keeps the front working harder),
Increase rear track width (again best done from inside end as that helps with roll centre placement too),

That is the list of what I do between my normal MM setup and going somewhere like Silverstone which is velcro grippy!!
Thanks for the list, I have to do more testing with the rear link. In onroad I would do like you said and lengthen, raise it, but so far it seems that lower/shorter has produced more rotation on my car. I do feel that the weight might be transferring too fast, or possibly not enough right now which is why the car gets into the corner well, but then struggles.
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