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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-17-2013, 10:08 PM
  #8686  
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Originally Posted by cnelson3
Without filling out a whole set up sheet, the significant changes were:

1. Running c-in/c-in on the new toe blocks
2. 1.5 mm shims under the rear toe block
3. Servo/speedo/shorty battery/[3/4 ounce weight]/motor
4. White rear springs.

The rest of your set up is really personal preference and based on tuning for the tires you use. Keep in mind, to put the 1.5mm under the rear toe blocks, you will need to loosen the 2 transmission screws prior to putting the rear bulkhead back. Also do not run any shims on top of the toe block, your already past the 1 mm the designers allowed for spacing.
I run C-in right now and white rears, have since July or so.

.5mm is 1 degree of Anti Squat right? So you're at like 5 now?

What front end setup, oil, and piston did you run?
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:18 PM
  #8687  
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Got the rb6 converted to mm. Can wait to try it out this wknd. Starting setup should have plenty of rear traction on our med traction track, very tight also. We shall see

From how I read the post above, he added 1.5mm to the rear toe block. So he should be at .5 of pro squat

Last edited by ovalracer1m; 11-17-2013 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:35 PM
  #8688  
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I thought 2.5mm of shimming would give you .5 pro squat
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:39 PM
  #8689  
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Isn't Pro Squat when you add it to the front block?
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:53 PM
  #8690  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Isn't Pro Squat when you add it to the front block?
If you add to the front block that is anti squat. If you add to the rear, you take away anti squat.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:55 PM
  #8691  
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Originally Posted by KalEl63
I thought 2.5mm of shimming would give you .5 pro squat
Most accurate answer I could find without measuring myself.

From Oople


"Definitely 2deg with no spacers under either RF or RR blocks.
Shims are 0.5mm thick which equates to 0.75deg per shim (1.5deg per mm) - if you want to get really accurate it's actually moves between 0.71 & 0.78deg due to the swept angle changing too but most people use 0.75 without issue"


So I have read where some people say 1mm gives 1 deg and where most say .5mm gives 1 deg.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:01 PM
  #8692  
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I've always thought of .5 = 1degree as well.

Last edited by K_King; 11-17-2013 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:08 PM
  #8693  
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Originally Posted by ovalracer1m
Most accurate answer I could find without measuring myself.

From Oople


"Definitely 2deg with no spacers under either RF or RR blocks.
Shims are 0.5mm thick which equates to 0.75deg per shim (1.5deg per mm) - if you want to get really accurate it's actually moves between 0.71 & 0.78deg due to the swept angle changing too but most people use 0.75 without issue"


So I have read where some people say 1mm gives 1 deg and where most say .5mm gives 1 deg.
Well that throws my 2.5mm out and means 1.5mm would give about .25 pro squat

K King Anti squat is where the front hanger is higher than the rear hanger and Pro is where the rear hanger is higher than the front hanger
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-untitled.png  
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:15 PM
  #8694  
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Originally Posted by K_King
But, if the rear pin is already angled up, that is preventing squat, hence anti-squat.

If you make that even higher, you're raising that pin angle even more creating more anti-squat, right? So he went from 2, to like 5 (I use the .5mm = 1degree method).

PS AS always confuses me, so any help would be awesome :P
To keep it simple, picture the rear of the car on power/squating and the angle of the hinge pins. When the front pin block (RF) angle up, this is resisting squat. Watch the rear squat on your pit board from a side view and you will see why this is. When you add shims to the back hinge pin block (RR) this is leveling out the hinge pins thus creating less squat resistance creating more rear traction, less on power steering.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:30 PM
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Edit: I just seen the post at the top of the page talking about this also....

Last edited by ovalracer1m; 11-18-2013 at 06:13 AM.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:41 PM
  #8696  
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Gotcha. Thanks I will try that

Can use a little more grip on my car at my track for sure.
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:05 PM
  #8697  
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Originally Posted by gelshocker
Loads of RB6 parts on the horizon:

http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/np1310.html

http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/newparts.html

Hopefully the pistons won't cost a GHEA!
I did notice this No.UMW604 Diff Gear Set (ULTIMA SC/DB/RB/RT)
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-capture.jpg  
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:14 AM
  #8698  
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if anybody has an extra avid top shaft they would like to sell shoot me a pm. Thanks.
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:21 AM
  #8699  
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Originally Posted by K_King
I've always thought of .5 = 1degree as well.
I measure the height of the hinge pin from the chassis when I shim the rear 2mm it gave me an equal measurement front to rear of the hinge pin giving you 0 degree anti-squat..

I have been fine tuning my TC and the degree of the squat is = to the thickness of the shims..
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:35 AM
  #8700  
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So .5 is just a small adjustment then. That's pretty cool to know
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