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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-10-2013, 10:26 PM   #8581
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Originally Posted by Qwkrn U View Post
Any suggestions on a mm setup that works on a low-medium grip?
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...ico2013080811/

Tebo's nats setup was my starting point, and I race on low to medium grip. The biggest change I made was to go down to 25 weight losi oil in the rear and 30 in the front (we race indoors where its cooler). Using a full saddle all the way back is ideal for lower grip with mid motor in my opinion.

Right now I'm on the 0 degree caster blocks too, but that was just because it offered more steering at the end of our straight in a banked corner (which sounds like it should be the opposite, but that's how it worked out). On our last layout, I ran 4 degree blocks and preferred them.

Its worth noting that in super low traction conditions, rear motor might be your only option if you want to be able to get on the gas at all. Having said that, the track has to get really blown out before mid stops working.

Wayne
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:28 PM   #8582
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Used the RT6 part, and some Shoe Goo, to get my F-R from 62% to 62.5%. These pics should actually have more Rear weight, as I moved my Rx to the side pod on the rear vs on the side of the ESC.




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Old 11-10-2013, 10:36 PM   #8583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...ico2013080811/

Tebo's nats setup was my starting point, and I race on low to medium grip. The biggest change I made was to go down to 25 weight losi oil in the rear and 30 in the front (we race indoors where its cooler). Using a full saddle all the way back is ideal for lower grip with mid motor in my opinion.

Right now I'm on the 0 degree caster blocks too, but that was just because it offered more steering at the end of our straight in a banked corner (which sounds like it should be the opposite, but that's how it worked out). On our last layout, I ran 4 degree blocks and preferred them.

Its worth noting that in super low traction conditions, rear motor might be your only option if you want to be able to get on the gas at all. Having said that, the track has to get really blown out before mid stops working.

Wayne
Working with our local Kyosho guys now on my MM setup and it's very similar to the one you suggest. Gonna change a few more things and give it a chance before switching back to RM.
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Old 11-10-2013, 11:59 PM   #8584
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Originally Posted by Qwkrn U View Post
Any suggestions on a mm setup that works on a low-medium grip?
MM SETUP FOR LOW TO MEDIUM TRACTION WET TRACK

Here what's I have been running at my local track... You can't use setup on a track that have traction with MM buggy more than likely you are not gonna have forward bite when you run the same setup on a track that have low traction. I have been running MM since the losi 22 came out and learn a lot how to properly setup a MM buggy.. I got the base setup posted at petit rc for kyosho RB6..
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:31 AM   #8585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
MM SETUP FOR LOW TO MEDIUM TRACTION WET TRACK

Here what's I have been running at my local track... You can't use setup on a track that have traction with MM buggy more than likely you are not gonna have forward bite when you run the same setup on a track that have low traction. I have been running MM since the losi 22 came out and learn a lot how to properly setup a MM buggy.. I got the base setup posted at petit rc for kyosho RB6..
Hi Sir,

Any difference in the set up if the track is not wet?

Thanks and ciao,

Lorenzo
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:26 AM   #8586
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
MM SETUP FOR LOW TO MEDIUM TRACTION WET TRACK

Here what's I have been running at my local track... You can't use setup on a track that have traction with MM buggy more than likely you are not gonna have forward bite when you run the same setup on a track that have low traction. I have been running MM since the losi 22 came out and learn a lot how to properly setup a MM buggy.. I got the base setup posted at petit rc for kyosho RB6..
I tried your .5 degree pro squat suggestion this week and picked up over 20 seconds in the 5 min qualifiers (from last week)... Added an entire lap and then some. No other changes. Thank you for suggesting this!
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:21 AM   #8587
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Can anyone explain why people raise the transmission? I see it on some of these setups, but besides altering dog bone angle, none of our suspension is connected to it, what is the benefit?
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:00 AM   #8588
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Can anyone explain why people raise the transmission? I see it on some of these setups, but besides altering dog bone angle, none of our suspension is connected to it, what is the benefit?
Generally speaking, when you move your transmission up or down, you're asking the rear to stay at a certain ride height on power. The drive shafts want to be straight on power as I understand it, so raising the transmission should keep the weight at the rear on power longer... I THINK.
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:01 AM   #8589
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Can anyone explain why people raise the transmission? I see it on some of these setups, but besides altering dog bone angle, none of our suspension is connected to it, what is the benefit?
it increases "dog bone plunge" which creates a slight bind in drivetrain. That increases rear traction. I did it with my losi 22's with dramatic improvement. I think there is a youtube video of one of the losi guys explaining it more in depth.
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:40 AM   #8590
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it increases "dog bone plunge" which creates a slight bind in drivetrain. That increases rear traction. I did it with my losi 22's with dramatic improvement. I think there is a youtube video of one of the losi guys explaining it more in depth.
Well currently that's not a problem that I need to fix, but I was thinking that, running low ride height like 18mm is getting the bones below level and I wonder if I should shim the trans to get them back, but I wouldn't want to add a bind (I actually think this may remove the bind at low ride height though).
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:13 PM   #8591
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Originally Posted by rpboggs1 View Post
I tried your .5 degree pro squat suggestion this week and picked up over 20 seconds in the 5 min qualifiers (from last week)... Added an entire lap and then some. No other changes. Thank you for suggesting this!
Your welcome.. Glad I can help!
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:18 PM   #8592
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Hi Sir,

Any difference in the set up if the track is not wet?

Thanks and ciao,

Lorenzo
I run the same setup on both low/medium traction wet condition track to high bite sugared/glued track.. My setup on high bite is unreal kinda like driving 1/12 scale on carpet

I also tried my setup on dirt track with medium traction dusty track and it still work.. I haven't driven my RM RB6 in a while when I got my MM RB6 working...
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:24 PM   #8593
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Generally speaking, when you move your transmission up or down, you're asking the rear to stay at a certain ride height on power. The drive shafts want to be straight on power as I understand it, so raising the transmission should keep the weight at the rear on power longer... I THINK.
Raising transmission also raise the CG which gives the buggy more roll = more lateral grip...

The key to MM on low to medium traction track is to have the lowest possible roll center with pro-squat and just fine tune the buggy from their base off your driving style..
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:29 PM   #8594
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Get some free stuff for your RB6!

Giveaway! Yaiba RB6 Front Bulkhead
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:04 PM   #8595
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
Raising transmission also raise the CG which gives the buggy more roll = more lateral grip...

The key to MM on low to medium traction track is to have the lowest possible roll center with pro-squat and just fine tune the buggy from their base off your driving style..
I just use jared's setup and I tend to win.
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