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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-08-2013, 08:02 PM   #8566
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I hear ya,
With new tires and new closed cells (AKA), it's hard to get the feel right, until they're broke in/scrubbed in. They are a bit more consistent once you get them to where they need to be, but for me, it always seems to come right about where the tires are almost done, but the foams are perfect. Unless you over sauce them. LOL.

Love all the traction I can get and then some, though, I think on the MM setup, rear traction gains are not as easy to come by when you need it. To the point that the need use of stock foams may be the needed route to go with that setup more often than not. Lots to play with/try, and for sure plenty of things to learn. LOL. Fun either way for me. If being fast was easy, we'd all be the fast racers. LOL.
At my local track I'm the only one that run mid motor and always run open cell "stock foam" inserts I'm in the winning streak since I got my KYOSHO RB6.. I got 2 DNF because of the darn ko propo EX1 KIY.. Darn thing when the connection gets dirty they start glitching...
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:47 PM   #8567
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At our track, the firmer the insert the better in almost all cases, except for that first run. After that, it's golden, especially with red aka foam and aka super soft tires. I run ghosted fronts and pretty mowed rears since the track is wet a lot recently, but even brand new tires are awesome once they get that first run edge out of the red aka foams. I find myself replacing foams, especially in front tires, due to the low tire wear and how good tires work when mowed right now.
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Old 11-08-2013, 11:21 PM   #8568
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Gotta tell ya after being Mr AE at our track, making the switch to the RB6 has been amazing. Running mid motor has made me and especially my 12 year old son a way better driver at the track. It's just so darn easy to drive.

Then again having team manager Joe Pillars in the pit, getting us dialed in helps
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:30 AM   #8569
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
At my local track I'm the only one that run mid motor and always run open cell "stock foam" inserts I'm in the winning streak since I got my KYOSHO RB6.. I got 2 DNF because of the darn ko propo EX1 KIY.. Darn thing when the connection gets dirty they start glitching...
Ha ha,

I was the first to switch to the MM at mine and while I'm not on the winning streak, I do love the RB6. Very happy to have made the switch to it.
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:38 AM   #8570
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
At our track, the firmer the insert the better in almost all cases, except for that first run. After that, it's golden, especially with red aka foam and aka super soft tires. I run ghosted fronts and pretty mowed rears since the track is wet a lot recently, but even brand new tires are awesome once they get that first run edge out of the red aka foams. I find myself replacing foams, especially in front tires, due to the low tire wear and how good tires work when mowed right now.
I hear ya for sure,

In the RM setup, I always liked the firm foams more, though our track doesn't like the SS compounds as much. I have tried them and the Clay compounds have been the preferred compound. Even the softs don't fair as well, but can be ran.

I wish our track would only take one run to get them dialed in with new foams and tires. Takes a bit more than that, but when they're good, they're good. Consistently good. Having gone to MM though, I think there's room to play with the rear foam a bit to help rear grip when needed. I'm still playing with the stock foams, but for now, they seem to help me. Not always the faster setup, but a comfortable and predictable one that could be of use should track conditions be as such that they're needed.
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:42 AM   #8571
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Originally Posted by the big rc View Post
Gotta tell ya after being Mr AE at our track, making the switch to the RB6 has been amazing. Running mid motor has made me and especially my 12 year old son a way better driver at the track. It's just so darn easy to drive.

Then again having team manager Joe Pillars in the pit, getting us dialed in helps
Just rub it in a little why don't ya. LOL.

Joe's a cool cat for sure. Wish I had him at my local track you lucky dog. Glad the cars are working for you and your son. Well worth the extra cost if you ask me.
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:24 AM   #8572
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Any word on a WC RB6?
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:14 AM   #8573
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Any word on a WC RB6?
The WC car is the one we all have already
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:02 PM   #8574
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If anyone is interested I have an extra set of Kyosho aluminum steering cranks and rack.
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:53 PM   #8575
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Just switched from a b4 and am completely lost for a starting setup...what is a good out of box starting point also what inserts should I use for the aluim rear braces
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:16 PM   #8576
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Originally Posted by laceup View Post
Just switched from a b4 and am completely lost for a starting setup...what is a good out of box starting point also what inserts should I use for the aluim rear braces
Rear motor or mid-motor?

For rear I would start with Tebo's 2013 CRCRC setup and for mid the World's setup.
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:29 PM   #8577
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
1mm = 1 degree
I'm pretty sure (for RM at least) each 0.5mm shim adds/subtracts 1 deg anti-squat. Default no shims is 2 deg. Cheers,
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:44 PM   #8578
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Rear motor or mid-motor?

For rear I would start with Tebo's 2013 CRCRC setup and for mid the World's setup.
Tebo MM setup is for high bite... This will not work on a low traction track..
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:47 PM   #8579
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I'm pretty sure (for RM at least) each 0.5mm shim adds/subtracts 1 deg anti-squat. Default no shims is 2 deg. Cheers,
I'm pretty sure 1mm = 1 degree... I shim the RR suspension hangers 2mm and made the hinge pin straight flat which give 0 anti-squat... RB6 has 2 degree stock anti-squat..
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:49 PM   #8580
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
Tebo MM setup is for high bite... This will not work on a low traction track..
Any suggestions on a mm setup that works on a low-medium grip?
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