R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Like Tree17Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-06-2013, 04:54 PM   #8551
Tech Elite
 
Teufel Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparks Nv.
Posts: 2,150
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
I hardly use close cell foam insert for me the buggy gets really too aggressive. Sometime I use it on the front if I want my buggy to have a little more steering but I never use close cell in rear... All our outdoor track is sugar or glued and I still use open cell running slicks tires which you can't do when using close cell foam insert...
For the outdoor tracks like what you mentioned, I've been open cell as well. Figured, if the tires weren't going to last, why spend the extra coin for the closed cells. LOL. They seem to work just fine for me, so I'm good with it.

For indoors, it's a little bit different. The break in for new tires and new closed cell foams (Red AKA) seem to take forever to get them right where they need to be. Was playing with used closed cells, in various stages of wear, and it helped, but could be a little hit or miss for me. Switched up to the open cells and the brake in time, to me, seemed a bit shorter. Not sure how long the open cells will last, but so far they seem to be doing ok. Have been running them on the wheeler more than the 2wd, but do have a few pairs just for the 2wd. I mainly run them for the track conditions when needed. More so just as an option, when I might need that little bit extra grip.
__________________
J.Mikoliczyk

RB6 - MBX7R Eco
Fantom Racing, Cheater Racing
Houston's Engine Service
Teufel Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2013, 05:23 PM   #8552
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 64
Default

I'm running Tebo crcrc setup with Rb6 rear arms and ae tapered 4 hole pistons. The Rb6 is my sons car, I normally run b4.2 in mod class, but was bored and ran stock also. Anybody notice how little droop the rb6 has compared to b4.
msandman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2013, 10:26 PM   #8553
Tech Addict
 
gelshocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 717
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, what's the difference between various MIP kits? There's 'Kyosho', 'RB6' and 'Pucks'. In various diffs and CVD kits. Thanks,

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...fferential-Kit

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...emale-Outdrive

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...VD-Kit-RB5-RB6

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-RB6-C-CVD-Kit

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...6-C-CVD-Bone-1
__________________
Kyosho RT5 | RB6
gelshocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2013, 10:29 PM   #8554
Tech Elite
 
Jochim_18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: CALI
Posts: 2,364
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

The pack version is designed and to be use mainly in stock 17.5 class...
__________________
Localrcracing.com - Your premiere source of Radio controlled Racing in central California.

Visaliahobbies.com * SkyRC * casterracingparts.com
Jochim_18 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2013, 10:48 PM   #8555
Tech Master
 
bigemike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: hamilton, oh
Posts: 1,750
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to bigemike
Default

Does anyone have starting gearing for a 17.5 ? I am running the high torque killshot with 12.5mm rotor
__________________
No sponsors. Love TLR, OS and Futaba though
bigemike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2013, 10:49 PM   #8556
Tech Champion
 
skengines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Blah Vegas
Posts: 5,292
Trader Rating: 226 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigemike View Post
Does anyone have starting gearing for a 17.5 ? I am running the high torque killshot with 12.5mm rotor
I ran 69/32-33

If you are running 17.5, I would get the Avid Slipper. Provides a lot more gearing options.
__________________
Mugen MBX7 Eco/Mugen MBX7T Eco
skengines is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2013, 10:50 PM   #8557
Tech Master
 
bigemike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: hamilton, oh
Posts: 1,750
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to bigemike
Default

what motor where you running?
I do have the triad already, white,red,white on the pads
__________________
No sponsors. Love TLR, OS and Futaba though
bigemike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 06:48 AM   #8558
Tech Champion
 
skengines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Blah Vegas
Posts: 5,292
Trader Rating: 226 (100%+)
Default

SchuurSpeed 17.5.
__________________
Mugen MBX7 Eco/Mugen MBX7T Eco
skengines is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 03:22 PM   #8559
E73
Tech Apprentice
 
E73's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Issaquah, WA
Posts: 88
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigemike View Post
Does anyone have starting gearing for a 17.5 ? I am running the high torque killshot with 12.5mm rotor
69/31 with Fantom Racing Apex 17.5 with 12.5mm high torque. I also have the Triad Slipper.
E73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 10:19 PM   #8560
Tech Elite
 
Jochim_18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: CALI
Posts: 2,364
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
For the outdoor tracks like what you mentioned, I've been open cell as well. Figured, if the tires weren't going to last, why spend the extra coin for the closed cells. LOL. They seem to work just fine for me, so I'm good with it.

For indoors, it's a little bit different. The break in for new tires and new closed cell foams (Red AKA) seem to take forever to get them right where they need to be. Was playing with used closed cells, in various stages of wear, and it helped, but could be a little hit or miss for me. Switched up to the open cells and the brake in time, to me, seemed a bit shorter. Not sure how long the open cells will last, but so far they seem to be doing ok. Have been running them on the wheeler more than the 2wd, but do have a few pairs just for the 2wd. I mainly run them for the track conditions when needed. More so just as an option, when I might need that little bit extra grip.
I tried closed cell for me the buggy don't have enough traction... With open cell the tire wear is a little higher compared to closed cell inserts... But I'll sacrifice tire wear anytime to gain performance... the only advantage of closed cell is the contour of the tires remains the same throughout the entire run so less wear... Coming from racing open mod in touring car I like traction
__________________
Localrcracing.com - Your premiere source of Radio controlled Racing in central California.

Visaliahobbies.com * SkyRC * casterracingparts.com
Jochim_18 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2013, 08:36 AM   #8561
Tech Master
 
Gary NJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,157
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

What spacer thickness do I need to run under the RR block to get to 0 degree anti squat? This is on a MM RB6 using the 705 and 707 rear blocks. If I want to try the .5 degree prosquat setting what is the spacer thickness? TIA
__________________
Gary - GMK Supply
www.gmksupply.com
Great products. Goofy names.
Gary NJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2013, 10:56 AM   #8562
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 187
Default

I can confirm taht running two black idle gears when in MM configuration will "eat" away the avid shaft and probably the Kyosho one also...is there a fix to this?

I think Kyosho will bring out a metal idle especially for mid but will this be the solution?
nitroargi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2013, 12:01 PM   #8563
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 411
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroargi View Post
I can confirm taht running two black idle gears when in MM configuration will "eat" away the avid shaft and probably the Kyosho one also...is there a fix to this?

I think Kyosho will bring out a metal idle especially for mid but will this be the solution?
After a year running on high grip astro tracks I have seen no wear in the kyosho slipper shaft. I have had two of the idler gears fail shortly after fitting the gear diff, they were a year old and so have had a lot of abuse.
__________________
Xray XB4 | Kyosho RB6 | Kyosho Rudebits DB2
Chris-s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2013, 04:34 PM   #8564
Tech Elite
 
Teufel Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparks Nv.
Posts: 2,150
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
I tried closed cell for me the buggy don't have enough traction... With open cell the tire wear is a little higher compared to closed cell inserts... But I'll sacrifice tire wear anytime to gain performance... the only advantage of closed cell is the contour of the tires remains the same throughout the entire run so less wear... Coming from racing open mod in touring car I like traction
I hear ya,
With new tires and new closed cells (AKA), it's hard to get the feel right, until they're broke in/scrubbed in. They are a bit more consistent once you get them to where they need to be, but for me, it always seems to come right about where the tires are almost done, but the foams are perfect. Unless you over sauce them. LOL.

Love all the traction I can get and then some, though, I think on the MM setup, rear traction gains are not as easy to come by when you need it. To the point that the need use of stock foams may be the needed route to go with that setup more often than not. Lots to play with/try, and for sure plenty of things to learn. LOL. Fun either way for me. If being fast was easy, we'd all be the fast racers. LOL.
__________________
J.Mikoliczyk

RB6 - MBX7R Eco
Fantom Racing, Cheater Racing
Houston's Engine Service
Teufel Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2013, 07:54 PM   #8565
Tech Elite
 
Jochim_18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: CALI
Posts: 2,364
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary NJ View Post
What spacer thickness do I need to run under the RR block to get to 0 degree anti squat? This is on a MM RB6 using the 705 and 707 rear blocks. If I want to try the .5 degree prosquat setting what is the spacer thickness? TIA
1mm = 1 degree
__________________
Localrcracing.com - Your premiere source of Radio controlled Racing in central California.

Visaliahobbies.com * SkyRC * casterracingparts.com
Jochim_18 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ryde it like you stole it: the Ryde Drivers thread. old_skoolie Australian Racing 22971 Yesterday 08:14 PM
Island Raceway & Hobby (IRH), Lindenhurst, NY - Indoor Off-Road Track in Long Island Asharus Northeast Racing Forum 15020 10-08-2017 07:30 PM
Kyosho Ultima RB5 Thread Drift_Buggy Electric Off-Road 14641 11-10-2015 08:28 AM
Kyosho Ultima SC aeRayls Electric Off-Road 2599 04-27-2014 04:30 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:24 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net