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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-03-2013, 07:17 PM   #8536
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Has anyone tried mm on a low traction surface? Our season is about to start nd need to make decision if I should switch?
I got my MM RB6 dialed on a wet track oh boy does she work.. TQ by 6 seconds against the whole field of rear motor buggy and won the race by 8 seconds ahead of 2nd place car and pretty much lap the whole field Friday night race on 17.5 expert class.. It took quite some time a lot of setup changes to make to work on wet low to medium traction track but finnaly got it dialed in..
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Old 11-03-2013, 09:22 PM   #8537
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
I got my MM RB6 dialed on a wet track oh boy does she work.. TQ by 6 seconds against the whole field of rear motor buggy and won the race by 8 seconds ahead of 2nd place car and pretty much lap the whole field Friday night race on 17.5 expert class.. It took quite some time a lot of setup changes to make to work on wet low to medium traction track but finnaly got it dialed in..
What setup do you have on there? Might help get guys going in the right direction if they run in conditions of the like.
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Old 11-03-2013, 11:53 PM   #8538
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Originally Posted by SAMCRO View Post
Yes, mine is dialed. Mine steeped out a bit coming out of turns and I put 2.5mm of shims under the rear inner ball stud and that helped a lot. Also, I run a shorty sideways with some weight behind it
Do you have a pic of your car?
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:42 PM   #8539
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You don't need transverse battery mounted on this car... Here's my setup

Front:

Shocks = 30wt losi oil
Piston = 55 losi piston
Shock position = middle hole
Shock position lower arm = outer hole
Spring = avid white
Front Caster "Kick up" = 25 degree
Caster front Hub = 4 degree insert
Front toe = 0
Link position front = middle hole with 0.5mm shim under the ball stud and 0.5mm on C-hub under the ball stud.
Ackerman = 0 spacer
Ride height = 22mm
Camber = 0.5
Front tires = Proline M4 ribs with open cell


Rear:

Shocks = 25wt losi oil
Piston = 54 losi piston
Shock position = inner most hole
Shock position lower arm = outer hole
Spring = avid purple
Rear toe = 3.5
Rear camber = 2.5
Rear Link position = inside inner most hole with 2mm shim under the ball stud, use outer most hole on the rear hub with 1mm shims under the ball stud.
Rear tires = Proline M4 Tazer with open cell
Ride height = 21mm
Anti-squat = 0 degree
Rear Pro-squat = 0.5 degree
Rear arm = I use the RB5 SP rear flat arm
Suspension hangers = wide
Rear Wheelbase arm = 0.25 mm front, 0mm rear
Rear wheelbase hub = 1mm/1mm

Note: raise the transmission 1mm, ESC mounted in back. I added 30grams weight shoe goo to the chassis in between the ESC and motor. Flip the rear battery braise facing the motor so you can mount the shorty battery in the middle of the chassis. Take all chassis screws out on the side to give the car more flex.

Running mid motor on wet track is all about using the right tires... So far I can only run it on wet condition on our indoor clay track using Proline M4 ribs front and M4 Tazer rear using open cell "stock foam" can make this car to wheely if I get on the throttle early after downsiding a jump going up hill, everyone was really surprise how hook up my mid motor RB6...
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Last edited by Jochim_18; 11-04-2013 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:42 PM   #8540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
Anti-squat = 0 degree
Rear Pro-squat = 0.5 degree
What do you mean by Pro-squat? Does that mean the front of the arm is slightly higher than the rear? Do you do that with a shim under the forward rear suspension hanger with no shims under the rear-rear hanger?

I'm blown away at how well my MM RB6 handles turns (still have trouble accepting that it wasn't going to spin out) but it's really squirrelly laying into it on the straight. A buddy of mine suggested going to the narrow suspension hanger but I don't want to lose the side grip. Anyone have any success with MM and narrow hanger or any other suggestions?
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Old 11-05-2013, 04:00 PM   #8541
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Originally Posted by rpboggs1 View Post
What do you mean by Pro-squat? Does that mean the front of the arm is slightly higher than the rear? Do you do that with a shim under the forward rear suspension hanger with no shims under the rear-rear hanger?

I'm blown away at how well my MM RB6 handles turns (still have trouble accepting that it wasn't going to spin out) but it's really squirrelly laying into it on the straight. A buddy of mine suggested going to the narrow suspension hanger but I don't want to lose the side grip. Anyone have any success with MM and narrow hanger or any other suggestions?
Pro-squat is when the hinge pin rear suspension angle is higher than front. What it does is to transfer more weight towards the rear of the car.. It force the car to squat on acceleration..

RB6 have a stock 2 degree of anti-squat, you need to shim the rear suspension hanger to achieve pro-squat.

The next I'm going to try is narrow suspension hanger it will actually gives the car more lateral grip due to it gives the car more roll when cornering but you will loose stability on straight line..
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Old 11-05-2013, 04:31 PM   #8542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
Pro-squat is when the hinge pin rear suspension angle is higher than front. What it does is to transfer more weight towards the rear of the car.. It force the car to squat on acceleration..

RB6 have a stock 2 degree of anti-squat, you need to shim the rear suspension hanger to achieve pro-squat.

The next I'm going to try is narrow suspension hanger it will actually gives the car more lateral grip due to it gives the car more roll when cornering but you will loose stability on straight line..
What shims do you use to achieve 0.5 deg pro-squat?
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:10 PM   #8543
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My understanding is if you follow the manual build its 1.5 degree and if you have no shimming on the RF & RR hangers its 2 degrees so you would need to shim the RR by 2.5mm to archive this?
Please someone correct me if I am wrong (as I’m not 100% sure on this ) as I am keen to try this on my MM as well

But not sure what to do with the shim in the MM config that goes between the bulkhead and the RR hanger
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:26 PM   #8544
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
My understanding is if you follow the manual build its 1.5 degree and if you have no shimming on the RF & RR hangers its 2 degrees so you would need to shim the RR by 2.5mm to archive this?
Please someone correct me if I am wrong (as Im not 100% sure on this ) as I am keen to try this on my MM as well

But not sure what to do with the shim in the MM config that goes between the bulkhead and the RR hanger
Yes you are correct...
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:02 PM   #8545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
You don't need transverse battery mounted on this car... Here's my setup

Front:

Shocks = 30wt losi oil
Piston = 55 losi piston
Shock position = middle hole
Shock position lower arm = outer hole
Spring = avid white
Front Caster "Kick up" = 25 degree
Caster front Hub = 4 degree insert
Front toe = 0
Link position front = middle hole with 0.5mm shim under the ball stud and 0.5mm on C-hub under the ball stud.
Ackerman = 0 spacer
Ride height = 22mm
Camber = 0.5
Front tires = Proline M4 ribs with open cell


Rear:

Shocks = 25wt losi oil
Piston = 54 losi piston
Shock position = inner most hole
Shock position lower arm = outer hole
Spring = avid purple
Rear toe = 3.5
Rear camber = 2.5
Rear Link position = inside inner most hole with 2mm shim under the ball stud, use outer most hole on the rear hub with 1mm shims under the ball stud.
Rear tires = Proline M4 Tazer with open cell
Ride height = 21mm
Anti-squat = 0 degree
Rear Pro-squat = 0.5 degree
Rear arm = I use the RB5 SP rear flat arm
Suspension hangers = wide
Rear Wheelbase arm = 0.25 mm front, 0mm rear
Rear wheelbase hub = 1mm/1mm

Note: raise the transmission 1mm, ESC mounted in back. I added 30grams weight shoe goo to the chassis in between the ESC and motor. Flip the rear battery braise facing the motor so you can mount the shorty battery in the middle of the chassis. Take all chassis screws out on the side to give the car more flex.

Running mid motor on wet track is all about using the right tires... So far I can only run it on wet condition on our indoor clay track using Proline M4 ribs front and M4 Tazer rear using open cell "stock foam" can make this car to wheely if I get on the throttle early after downsiding a jump going up hill, everyone was really surprise how hook up my mid motor RB6...
Thanks for posting that,

The use of the stock foams was going to be my next question, which your setup already answered. The use of those foams on a loose track to me may be the key, as I have been playing with stock foams a little and I thought they'd do ok on a much looser track with the right compound.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:03 AM   #8546
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Just got a few of these, they are 300mm http://tqwire.com/servocable.htm

These will reach back from your servo all the way to the back of the rb6, use the channel in the sidepod to hide it.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:35 AM   #8547
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Thanks for posting that,

The use of the stock foams was going to be my next question, which your setup already answered. The use of those foams on a loose track to me may be the key, as I have been playing with stock foams a little and I thought they'd do ok on a much looser track with the right compound.
I hardly use close cell foam insert for me the buggy gets really too aggressive. Sometime I use it on the front if I want my buggy to have a little more steering but I never use close cell in rear... All our outdoor track is sugar or glued and I still use open cell running slicks tires which you can't do when using close cell foam insert...
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:34 AM   #8548
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My RB6 last night. Silver with orange wing. www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrw6NjIEmEE
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Old 11-06-2013, 11:07 AM   #8549
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My RB6 last night. Silver with orange wing. www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrw6NjIEmEE
The rear end looks really soft.
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Old 11-06-2013, 04:10 PM   #8550
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The rear end looks really soft.
The others looked a little bouncy through the whoops section though. Are you using 25wt rear oil with the 5 hole pistons in the rear?
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