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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-23-2013, 05:36 AM   #8476
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Anybody found a cvd rebuild kit that fits without buying the axels too I got an avid kit an new bones need to come together ta
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:08 AM   #8477
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Jared's latest setup from the worlds has the spacer in front, but his nats setup had them in the back. Both had the ackerman backwards. I run with the spacer in the rear and the ackerman backwards and my car is amazing. I can cut out 4wds entering our straight from a corner.

If you're having trouble balancing low speed and high speed steering, might I suggest you play with camber and caster blocks. The 4 degree blocks, what I run, will give you more high speed than low speed steering. You can also bleed off steering at low speed and add more at high speed by adding more negative camber in the front. I run -1.5 in the front. Feels good man.
Hey Raz,

Would you be willing to post your current RB6 rm setup? When I ran a B4.2 and B44.2, I ran your posted setups and both were money. Your vids on camber and roll center tuning were very helpful back then. And they are always relevant.

Being new to the RB6, and even reading the entire thread, it has been a daunting task for the less talented setup people (me) because of all the adjustment possibilities. I'm old school (rm) and prefer to keep it that way at least for now.

Thanks in advance if you can offer up your setup.

Thanks

Mark
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:04 AM   #8478
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Hey Raz,

Would you be willing to post your current RB6 rm setup? When I ran a B4.2 and B44.2, I ran your posted setups and both were money. Your vids on camber and roll center tuning were very helpful back then. And they are always relevant.

Being new to the RB6, and even reading the entire thread, it has been a daunting task for the less talented setup people (me) because of all the adjustment possibilities. I'm old school (rm) and prefer to keep it that way at least for now.

Thanks in advance if you can offer up your setup.

Thanks

Mark
I currently run mid motor, but I did run rear motor for a while, and the setup I used was just Jared's midwest champs setup with the shock oils kicked up a half weight for the temperature difference, a saddle pack, and 7 degree wing angle, and all screws present in the chassis. It was hooked.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...CRC2013011213/
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:48 AM   #8479
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Thank you, Raz!

Mark
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:20 AM   #8480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Jared's latest setup from the worlds has the spacer in front, but his nats setup had them in the back. Both had the ackerman backwards. I run with the spacer in the rear and the ackerman backwards and my car is amazing. I can cut out 4wds entering our straight from a corner.

If you're having trouble balancing low speed and high speed steering, might I suggest you play with camber and caster blocks. The 4 degree blocks, what I run, will give you more high speed than low speed steering. You can also bleed off steering at low speed and add more at high speed by adding more negative camber in the front. I run -1.5 in the front. Feels good man.
Just trying new stuff out. I also run 1.5 F and 2.0 R camber. I have tried changing the block inserts before. Do you have your RM setup sheet around?
I do have a very nice base setup to go back to of course if all else fails. Was just trying stuff out in stock buggy since keeping corner speeds are so important. At least for stock sedan, the trick is to put so much steering in the car setup that at full lock it spins out, then you dial back dual rate until it gets around your track. So trying that approach with this car trying to get out of point and squirt.

But I will not run mid motor on this car again until I get a vega elite or so. The stock mid motor on the kyosho was too lazy for me not dynamic enough. If there was a way to run the shocks in front like in RM then I would consider it. The best mid motor car I have driven was the cougar sv2 with rear shocks in front of arms and +8 carbon chassis. The worst mid motor would be the durango .
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:42 AM   #8481
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Just trying new stuff out. I also run 1.5 F and 2.0 R camber. I have tried changing the block inserts before. Do you have your RM setup sheet around?
I do have a very nice base setup to go back to of course if all else fails. Was just trying stuff out in stock buggy since keeping corner speeds are so important. At least for stock sedan, the trick is to put so much steering in the car setup that at full lock it spins out, then you dial back dual rate until it gets around your track. So trying that approach with this car trying to get out of point and squirt.

But I will not run mid motor on this car again until I get a vega elite or so. The stock mid motor on the kyosho was too lazy for me not dynamic enough. If there was a way to run the shocks in front like in RM then I would consider it. The best mid motor car I have driven was the cougar sv2 with rear shocks in front of arms and +8 carbon chassis. The worst mid motor would be the durango .
A few posts up I explained what I ran for rear motor. Basically tebo's midwest champs setup with a few changes.
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:55 AM   #8482
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Originally Posted by biggerT View Post
Anybody found a cvd rebuild kit that fits without buying the axels too I got an avid kit an new bones need to come together ta
You can buy just the swingshafts. You don't need to buy the entire assembly.
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Old 10-23-2013, 12:29 PM   #8483
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.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:10 PM   #8484
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I got new swinshafts cheap on fleabay and have an avid axel kit here already I took stock of my used bit bits an can build a rm roller almost just need to get bits to connect drive shafts and a brass bushing for slipper shaft an another motor spacer can't find bushing without a shaft though either
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:35 PM   #8485
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I'm in the process of making some 4x55 pistons using the Kyosho blanks. Is this the proper configuration for the holes? I wasn't sure if they all needed to be equal distance from each other.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:46 PM   #8486
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I'm in the process of making some 4x55 pistons using the Kyosho blanks. Is this the proper configuration for the holes? I wasn't sure if they all needed to be equal distance from each other.
That's what I did. Just make sure you drill em straight so they don't get covered by e-clip.

Also, either drill by hand with a finger bit holder or a VERY slow proportional throttle drill. The drill I use can go as slow as 10-20 rpm. You will only want one rotation of the bit after it pokes through while holding stationary to trim flashing off before backing the bit back out slowly in reverse. If you let it spin in the hole at all, you've ruined the piston as it will wobble and remove too much material.

Wayne
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:28 PM   #8487
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what arms are you guys running for both front and rear? also, What Rear hub?
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:38 PM   #8488
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Stock front arm, um521-1 rear arm, stock type-b hub or alu type-b/b2 combo with large bearing.

I personally run the stock rear hubs, which are type-b. Tebo uses the type-b holes on his alu hubs. Most of the time, you'll see zero degree hubs used, but half degree hubs are also an option, but I'd suggest just getting the umw705 rf arm mount with eccentric pills so you can change from 3 to 3.5 total toe by just changing pills instead of changing expensive alu hubs.

Make sure to run the short shock eyelet in the rear when using the um521-1 arms to maintain down travel.
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:52 AM   #8489
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
That's what I did. Just make sure you drill em straight so they don't get covered by e-clip.

Also, either drill by hand with a finger bit holder or a VERY slow proportional throttle drill. The drill I use can go as slow as 10-20 rpm. You will only want one rotation of the bit after it pokes through while holding stationary to trim flashing off before backing the bit back out slowly in reverse. If you let it spin in the hole at all, you've ruined the piston as it will wobble and remove too much material.

Wayne
Another way is to drill a pilot hole with a smaller bit, than hand thread the bigger one.
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:32 PM   #8490
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How does one reverse ackerman like I am seeing on tebos mid motor setup sheets?
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