172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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10-19-2013, 09:21 AM
#8461
You're right on with the suspension. Loosened the retaining nuts but it still pulled hard left. Swapped to some old tires and gave it a few straight line rips... the left rear showed a lot more wear so its definitely digging harder on that side, causing the diff to transfer power to the right which pushes the car left. (Check my logic) Everything seems free and smooth so I'll start by bleeding the shocks again just in case.
10-19-2013, 10:05 AM
#8463
Suspended
Could someone please do me a favor and measure the front a-arms from inner to outer hinge pin? I am working on revising the front end geometry on a different 2wd buggy, and I think the RB6 front arms might be what I need.
Thanks
Thanks
10-20-2013, 11:05 PM
#8464
Hey guys anyone have the parts list for the Kyosho RB6 titanium screw set UMW703? Thanks,
10-21-2013, 06:53 AM
#8465
I thought about that as well. I trimmed my battery strap so i couldn't mount my front battery cradle far enough back to get the battery strap to lock down on the motor guard. This may be something I revisit if the track gets looser but I worry about the pendulum effect it creates.
10-21-2013, 07:53 AM
#8466
You're right on with the suspension. Loosened the retaining nuts but it still pulled hard left. Swapped to some old tires and gave it a few straight line rips... the left rear showed a lot more wear so its definitely digging harder on that side, causing the diff to transfer power to the right which pushes the car left. (Check my logic) Everything seems free and smooth so I'll start by bleeding the shocks again just in case.
10-21-2013, 07:11 PM
#8467
has anyone tried mounting the battery all the way back and the speedo in front of the battery in MM? I tried tebo's worlds set up and the back end wasn't nearly as planted as the battery behind the speedo. for clarification, you can run a shorty pack so far back it slides under the motor guard and hits the motor, but i'm not talking that far back. Just the most rearward position using both battery cradles.
I tried it today along with a 1 mm shim below the rear toe block. I'm really surprised by the results. our track gets a little slick sometimes and the mm buggy handled it well.
I tried it today along with a 1 mm shim below the rear toe block. I'm really surprised by the results. our track gets a little slick sometimes and the mm buggy handled it well.
10-22-2013, 10:22 AM
#8469
ANyone still running the steering rack with arrow behind? It made my RM more uncontrollable. I am going back to the stock ackerman position. The high speed steering went away would break loose way before (did not change the 1.5 front camber maybe needed to do that?). The car turned the hairpins a bit better but nothing that advantageous.
10-22-2013, 12:05 PM
#8470
ANyone still running the steering rack with arrow behind? It made my RM more uncontrollable. I am going back to the stock ackerman position. The high speed steering went away would break loose way before (did not change the 1.5 front camber maybe needed to do that?). The car turned the hairpins a bit better but nothing that advantageous.
10-22-2013, 12:41 PM
#8473
Tech Regular
ANyone still running the steering rack with arrow behind? It made my RM more uncontrollable. I am going back to the stock ackerman position. The high speed steering went away would break loose way before (did not change the 1.5 front camber maybe needed to do that?). The car turned the hairpins a bit better but nothing that advantageous.
Next time you flip the rack try moving the front C hubs back too. When Tebo flips the rack it moves the ball stud back 1.25mm, but he also moves the C hub back 1mm so he is only 0.25mm back over stock. If you don't slide the front hubs back with it you are actually 2mm longer then what JT runs which will make the car feel exactly what you are feeling, inconsistent. Keep in mind when you slide the front hubs back it will put more weight over the nose and create more overall front grip, not necessarily twitchy steering though. it creates more front grip with a less linear feeling. I used this all summer when the tracks have a lot of high bite and are not forgiving.
10-22-2013, 07:10 PM
#8475
Jared's latest setup from the worlds has the spacer in front, but his nats setup had them in the back. Both had the ackerman backwards. I run with the spacer in the rear and the ackerman backwards and my car is amazing. I can cut out 4wds entering our straight from a corner.
If you're having trouble balancing low speed and high speed steering, might I suggest you play with camber and caster blocks. The 4 degree blocks, what I run, will give you more high speed than low speed steering. You can also bleed off steering at low speed and add more at high speed by adding more negative camber in the front. I run -1.5 in the front. Feels good man.
If you're having trouble balancing low speed and high speed steering, might I suggest you play with camber and caster blocks. The 4 degree blocks, what I run, will give you more high speed than low speed steering. You can also bleed off steering at low speed and add more at high speed by adding more negative camber in the front. I run -1.5 in the front. Feels good man.