R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Like Tree6Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-19-2013, 09:21 AM   #8461
Tech Regular
 
rpboggs1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: York, PA
Posts: 404
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Did you check the rear suspension bind. Rear shock preload, shaft not busted or bent in one shock? The cars gotta squat symmetrically on full throttle otherwise it will be pulling. Front wheels are loose and free correct?
You're right on with the suspension. Loosened the retaining nuts but it still pulled hard left. Swapped to some old tires and gave it a few straight line rips... the left rear showed a lot more wear so its definitely digging harder on that side, causing the diff to transfer power to the right which pushes the car left. (Check my logic) Everything seems free and smooth so I'll start by bleeding the shocks again just in case.
__________________
Kyosho RB6 * Kyosho ZX6 * Kyosho RT6
TLR 22SCT * TLR SCTE 2.0
Tekno NB48.3 * Tekno EB48.4 * Tekno EB48.3 * Tekno ET48.3
rpboggs1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2013, 09:36 AM   #8462
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 275
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Buckland
Default

Hold the rear of the car up in the air and grab some throttle. If there is a problem with the driveline it will try to torque in your hand, if the rear is in the air the suspension will have no effect.
__________________
Yeah its a toy car, but I spent a lot of money to make it look nice, and it would still look nice if you weren't currently melting my wing with your left rear tire.
Buckland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2013, 10:05 AM   #8463
Suspended
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 28
Default

Could someone please do me a favor and measure the front a-arms from inner to outer hinge pin? I am working on revising the front end geometry on a different 2wd buggy, and I think the RB6 front arms might be what I need.

Thanks
Art_VanDelay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2013, 11:05 PM   #8464
Tech Addict
 
gelshocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 717
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys anyone have the parts list for the Kyosho RB6 titanium screw set UMW703? Thanks,
__________________
Kyosho RT5 | RB6
gelshocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 06:53 AM   #8465
Tech Adept
 
SAMCRO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 163
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
I thought about that as well. I trimmed my battery strap so i couldn't mount my front battery cradle far enough back to get the battery strap to lock down on the motor guard. This may be something I revisit if the track gets looser but I worry about the pendulum effect it creates.
I put a shorty pack in sideways and put 2oz of weight behind it. Has been the best configuration I have tried..
SAMCRO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 07:53 AM   #8466
Tech Champion
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,749
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpboggs1 View Post
You're right on with the suspension. Loosened the retaining nuts but it still pulled hard left. Swapped to some old tires and gave it a few straight line rips... the left rear showed a lot more wear so its definitely digging harder on that side, causing the diff to transfer power to the right which pushes the car left. (Check my logic) Everything seems free and smooth so I'll start by bleeding the shocks again just in case.
Any chance you did something, like accidentally having different springs on the right vs left side?
__________________
Mike L. Awesomatixusa.com | TQWire.com | Islandraceway.com |JacksonRCracing.com | Horsham RC | Sweepracingusa.com
MikeXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 07:11 PM   #8467
Tech Elite
 
Teufel Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparks Nv.
Posts: 2,134
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
has anyone tried mounting the battery all the way back and the speedo in front of the battery in MM? I tried tebo's worlds set up and the back end wasn't nearly as planted as the battery behind the speedo. for clarification, you can run a shorty pack so far back it slides under the motor guard and hits the motor, but i'm not talking that far back. Just the most rearward position using both battery cradles.

I tried it today along with a 1 mm shim below the rear toe block. I'm really surprised by the results. our track gets a little slick sometimes and the mm buggy handled it well.
I currently use that ESC/Battery config as well and I think I'm just a touch heavy up front, but it seems to work pretty good. Have thought about adding a little weight in the rear for when the track isn't as high bite, but haven't yet done that. Have also been thinking of putting the R10 behind the batt simply because it's a little on the heavy side for an ESC, but will try that too later on. So far the MM setup with the front ESC config seems to work good enough for me right now, that I'll probably stay with it a little longer to see what other changes I need to play with first.
__________________
J.Mikoliczyk

ZX6 - RB6 - MP9e
Fantom Racing, Cheater Racing
Houston's Engine Service
Teufel Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 10:19 AM   #8468
Tech Elite
 
aloksatoor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: N California
Posts: 3,099
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Any chance you did something, like accidentally having different springs on the right vs left side?
Also before rebuilding shocks, just swap them left right and see if the other side pulls. That means you have to rebuild the whole shock pistons/shaft/bushing/orings.
__________________
MP9 TKI3 | ZX6 | RB6 | MBX7r Eco
aloksatoor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 10:22 AM   #8469
Tech Elite
 
aloksatoor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: N California
Posts: 3,099
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

ANyone still running the steering rack with arrow behind? It made my RM more uncontrollable. I am going back to the stock ackerman position. The high speed steering went away would break loose way before (did not change the 1.5 front camber maybe needed to do that?). The car turned the hairpins a bit better but nothing that advantageous.
__________________
MP9 TKI3 | ZX6 | RB6 | MBX7r Eco
aloksatoor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 12:05 PM   #8470
Tech Champion
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,749
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
ANyone still running the steering rack with arrow behind? It made my RM more uncontrollable. I am going back to the stock ackerman position. The high speed steering went away would break loose way before (did not change the 1.5 front camber maybe needed to do that?). The car turned the hairpins a bit better but nothing that advantageous.
Your toe is likely off, and that can also affect your camber, so I would say to squaring those up first, isn't the swap only like 1mm difference?
__________________
Mike L. Awesomatixusa.com | TQWire.com | Islandraceway.com |JacksonRCracing.com | Horsham RC | Sweepracingusa.com
MikeXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 12:16 PM   #8471
Tech Champion
 
stiltskin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 5,368
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
Default

What is this "steering rack mod"
__________________
Tony Rumple
Team EAM // Gravity RC
stiltskin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 12:20 PM   #8472
Tech Champion
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,749
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stiltskin View Post
What is this "steering rack mod"
Mounting it backwards, moves the ballstuds back a little bit.
__________________
Mike L. Awesomatixusa.com | TQWire.com | Islandraceway.com |JacksonRCracing.com | Horsham RC | Sweepracingusa.com
MikeXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 12:41 PM   #8473
tef
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 321
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
ANyone still running the steering rack with arrow behind? It made my RM more uncontrollable. I am going back to the stock ackerman position. The high speed steering went away would break loose way before (did not change the 1.5 front camber maybe needed to do that?). The car turned the hairpins a bit better but nothing that advantageous.


Next time you flip the rack try moving the front C hubs back too. When Tebo flips the rack it moves the ball stud back 1.25mm, but he also moves the C hub back 1mm so he is only 0.25mm back over stock. If you don't slide the front hubs back with it you are actually 2mm longer then what JT runs which will make the car feel exactly what you are feeling, inconsistent. Keep in mind when you slide the front hubs back it will put more weight over the nose and create more overall front grip, not necessarily twitchy steering though. it creates more front grip with a less linear feeling. I used this all summer when the tracks have a lot of high bite and are not forgiving.
__________________
Thanks to my sponsors Kyosho America*O.S. Engines*TrakPower*Pro-Line Racing*Futaba*O'Donnell fuel*Team Scream Racing
tef is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 02:34 PM   #8474
Tech Elite
 
aloksatoor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: N California
Posts: 3,099
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

Hmm that explains it gentlemen. I will check the toe and move the c hubs behind as well.
__________________
MP9 TKI3 | ZX6 | RB6 | MBX7r Eco
aloksatoor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2013, 07:10 PM   #8475
Tech Master
 
Razathorn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,972
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Jared's latest setup from the worlds has the spacer in front, but his nats setup had them in the back. Both had the ackerman backwards. I run with the spacer in the rear and the ackerman backwards and my car is amazing. I can cut out 4wds entering our straight from a corner.

If you're having trouble balancing low speed and high speed steering, might I suggest you play with camber and caster blocks. The 4 degree blocks, what I run, will give you more high speed than low speed steering. You can also bleed off steering at low speed and add more at high speed by adding more negative camber in the front. I run -1.5 in the front. Feels good man.
__________________
AE B6D / AE B44.3 / AE RC10WC / AE RC8B3
Razathorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ryde it like you stole it: the Ryde Drivers thread. old_skoolie Australian Racing 22939 Today 01:36 AM
Island Raceway & Hobby (IRH), Lindenhurst, NY - Indoor Off-Road Track in Long Island Asharus Northeast Racing Forum 15013 06-22-2017 04:17 PM
Kyosho Ultima RB5 Thread Drift_Buggy Electric Off-Road 14641 11-10-2015 08:28 AM
Kyosho Ultima SC aeRayls Electric Off-Road 2599 04-27-2014 04:30 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:37 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net