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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-17-2013, 12:38 PM   #8446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
thanks... any idea what kind of grease this is? i dont want to give kyosho another $10 or sp for 3g of generic grease X or Y... lithium or plain jane mechanical grease should do the trick here, shouldnt have to buy specific K products... i m too old for this

thank you

Paul
I think that stuff is just plain old mollybendum engine assembly lube like the AE black grease.
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:58 PM   #8447
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Why is everybody using gear diffs all of a sudden? Is it because the WC was won with a car that had it hehe? Saw on Tebos blog that seemed like he had a factory part during the WC which he did not have in his rt6 (that got chewed up in a race with mod motors).

So I think kyosho might release a better spec part soon enough if it works well for the champ! I really would not want to put metal gears in my stock buggy so sticking with ball diffs for now.
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:54 PM   #8448
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Originally Posted by dahomie View Post
Hi guys,
I am having issues with these hangers.
I get different toe readings from side to side whatever I do...
With stock plastic hangers I have 3 degree toe in each side.
With either both (in stock B-out configuration) or with only the front (705) or only the rear hanger (707 since I run it mm configured) I get strange readings... 2.5 degrees on one side, 2 on the other, or almost 3 on one side and 3.5 on the other.
HAs any one else seen this issue or even thought about checking? I even had the rear one replaced but also the new one gives the same side to side differences.
Has the C. that makes these for K. had a bad batch, this is not at all up to the Q standard I am getting use to from K...
BTW, my setup station is used for other brands and always shows correct, I have not had this issue ever before on any other car or brand.
To make sure I was not dreaming or doing something wrong I had a friend of mine check his car which only has the fron umw705 hanger on, same differences... Different toe readings for the left and right side there as well and for the record, he used his own setup station for measuring. So now I started to be really confused... Then I try to look at a picture of Tebos car from the WC, neo has a picture taken from above. And looking at this picture it really looks like he has two different toe's as well... might be angle of course but it sure looks like it...
If that was the case for him, the car is capable, in his hands to be World Champion even with different toe angles from side to side which is excellent of course nevertheless this issue is extremely annoying and as mentioned nothing I have experienced before...

Has anyone else experienced this with these part numbers?
\

I had the same problem you are having. I went back to the stock rear hanger and all is good now. My rear toe with the B out B out block was different from side to side. Measured the hanger and seems to be machined slightly off. Car drove considerable better after going back to stock hanger.
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:08 PM   #8449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
thanks... any idea what kind of grease this is? i dont want to give kyosho another $10 or sp for 3g of generic grease X or Y... lithium or plain jane mechanical grease should do the trick here, shouldnt have to buy specific K products... i m too old for this

thank you

Paul
I will vouche for the kyosho clear diff grease. I've has considerably better luck with that stuff than ae, losi, and the muchmore stuff i got. Muchmore was a close second but still $10.
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:47 AM   #8450
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If anyone is interested have a Rb6 for sale here kyosho rb6
Gee buggy rear and mid, just in need of some cash so it's up for sale. Make offers on it.
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:55 AM   #8451
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I'm pretty sure I'm having an issue with my gear diff too. It's seems fairly smooth and it doesn't leak (knock on wood) but when I punch it from a stop, the car pulls hard to the left. The axles are spin free when the dogbones aren't installed and I even replaced all the bearings in the axles and gearbox just to be sure... and it still pulls. Also weight balance seems to be fairly even... Esc in middle, receiver on right, and esc cap and power switch on left.

Any suggestions?

And by the way, its a midmotor setup with 5000 ae oil in diff.
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:49 PM   #8452
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Originally Posted by rpboggs1 View Post
I'm pretty sure I'm having an issue with my gear diff too. It's seems fairly smooth and it doesn't leak (knock on wood) but when I punch it from a stop, the car pulls hard to the left. The axles are spin free when the dogbones aren't installed and I even replaced all the bearings in the axles and gearbox just to be sure... and it still pulls. Also weight balance seems to be fairly even... Esc in middle, receiver on right, and esc cap and power switch on left.

Any suggestions?

And by the way, its a midmotor setup with 5000 ae oil in diff.
Did you check the rear suspension bind. Rear shock preload, shaft not busted or bent in one shock? The cars gotta squat symmetrically on full throttle otherwise it will be pulling. Front wheels are loose and free correct?
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:36 PM   #8453
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Anyone come up with a clever way to add a fan in MM? Would like to keep my speedo in the back.
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:23 PM   #8454
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http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...he_Kyosho_RB6/
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:11 PM   #8455
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sweet deal exotek on the axles
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:19 PM   #8456
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Anyone come up with a clever way to add a fan in MM? Would like to keep my speedo in the back.
My speedo is mounted in the back just forward of the motor. I flipped the battery strap around which opened up a nice hole for a Side Piece Racing fan to be installed.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:28 PM   #8457
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Did you check the rear suspension bind. Rear shock preload, shaft not busted or bent in one shock? The cars gotta squat symmetrically on full throttle otherwise it will be pulling. Front wheels are loose and free correct?
Good call! Didn't check it out yet but I'll bet the shock mounts are too tight. Hinge pins were free and shocks freshly rebuilt... but I swapped out the retaining nuts on the upper mount and may have overtightened them. And yes the front wheels are smooth and balanced. Thanks for the quick reponse!
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:07 PM   #8458
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has anyone tried mounting the battery all the way back and the speedo in front of the battery in MM? I tried tebo's worlds set up and the back end wasn't nearly as planted as the battery behind the speedo. for clarification, you can run a shorty pack so far back it slides under the motor guard and hits the motor, but i'm not talking that far back. Just the most rearward position using both battery cradles.

I tried it today along with a 1 mm shim below the rear toe block. I'm really surprised by the results. our track gets a little slick sometimes and the mm buggy handled it well.
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Old 10-19-2013, 01:27 AM   #8459
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
has anyone tried mounting the battery all the way back and the speedo in front of the battery in MM? I tried tebo's worlds set up and the back end wasn't nearly as planted as the battery behind the speedo. for clarification, you can run a shorty pack so far back it slides under the motor guard and hits the motor, but i'm not talking that far back. Just the most rearward position using both battery cradles.

I tried it today along with a 1 mm shim below the rear toe block. I'm really surprised by the results. our track gets a little slick sometimes and the mm buggy handled it well.
That;s the way to go if you run MM on slippery track...you can always use a battery foam spacers between the shorty and the motor in order not to slide back.

If the traction comes up thought you may find the car pushing due to more traction...
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Old 10-19-2013, 08:00 AM   #8460
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Originally Posted by nitroargi View Post
That;s the way to go if you run MM on slippery track...you can always use a battery foam spacers between the shorty and the motor in order not to slide back.

If the traction comes up thought you may find the car pushing due to more traction...
I thought about that as well. I trimmed my battery strap so i couldn't mount my front battery cradle far enough back to get the battery strap to lock down on the motor guard. This may be something I revisit if the track gets looser but I worry about the pendulum effect it creates.
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