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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-16-2013, 09:16 AM   #8431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Anyone tried messing with the toe inserts? Mainly running C in C in to narrow up the rear? If so what did you find it did to the car?
I am testing with that set up. It seems to provide less slide as the car rolls through the center of the corner and more exit traction coming out of a corner. but the car was less stable overall.
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:32 AM   #8432
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Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
I am testing with that set up. It seems to provide less slide as the car rolls through the center of the corner and more exit traction coming out of a corner. but the car was less stable overall.
Sounds pretty expected as it will increase overall roll, much like a very significant lowering in roll center.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:23 AM   #8433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Sounds pretty expected as it will increase overall roll, much like a very significant lowering in roll center.
How do you figure its increasing overall roll?
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:33 PM   #8434
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
How do you figure its increasing overall roll?
Well, it ACTS like more roll, and it should roll a BIT more, but the real change is the change in force against the track at the tire due to leverage change from decreased lever arm distance from the roll center (or just centerline of the car) and the tire contact patch. It will roll more because bringing in the tire brings in the tire contact patch, which if you draw all the "roll center lines" and connections, that lowers the roll center. Also, if you just think about it in terms of the shorter lever arm, much like having a long vs short kick stand on a bike, the short one is easier to tip over than the long one.

Wayne
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:34 PM   #8435
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Originally Posted by SAMCRO View Post
Has anyone tried the rear stabilizer set? I am thinking of ordering one and wanted to get some input. Our indoor track is by no means high bite and can dusty/bumpy so I am not sure if it is worth trying or not...
I tried it, multiple ways with kit and flat arms with multiple bars. It is kinda cool in that it lets you really over drive the car, but it doesn't make it faster and takes away precious low speed traction.

Wayne
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:38 PM   #8436
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Peak Racing vantage 7.5 motor - BRAND NEW

Anyone looking for a great motor for cheap?
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:19 AM   #8437
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Hi All

what's the secret to a smooth RB6 gear diff? I've just built one and it's "grainy", you can basically feel the teeth working against each other... I've built my share of 8th scale gear diffs, but I have to say I'm not an expert in dinky plastic ones. I've used a bit of lithium grease at strategic locations (outdrive, ring, gears) everywhere where there's friction and/or a risk of leaking, I've considerably greased/oil the plastic seal, I haven't overfilled it, blah blah blah, the works, then AE's 3K oil.

And still the thing feels like crap (and it leaks)... Do these things need to break-in or what? I 8th you break them in for a couple of hours to loosen them up, but here it's worst, it really feels wrong...

Thanks

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Old 10-17-2013, 08:00 AM   #8438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Hi All

what's the secret to a smooth RB6 gear diff? I've just built one and it's "grainy", you can basically feel the teeth working against each other... I've built my share of 8th scale gear diffs, but I have to say I'm not an expert in dinky plastic ones. I've used a bit of lithium grease at strategic locations (outdrive, ring, gears) everywhere where there's friction and/or a risk of leaking, I've considerably greased/oil the plastic seal, I haven't overfilled it, blah blah blah, the works, then AE's 3K oil.

And still the thing feels like crap (and it leaks)... Do these things need to break-in or what? I 8th you break them in for a couple of hours to loosen them up, but here it's worst, it really feels wrong...

Thanks

Paul
I second this quote. My gear diff leaked all over the place and felt like crap in the car. I just pulled it out an tossed it in the pit bag.....

Last edited by offroad dude; 10-17-2013 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:35 AM   #8439
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Originally Posted by offroad dude View Post
I second this quote. I gear diff leaked all over the place and felt like crap in the car. I just pulled it out an tossed it in the pit bag.....
One of our locals tried it and said it was good for half a run until it leaked out.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:48 AM   #8440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Well, it ACTS like more roll, and it should roll a BIT more, but the real change is the change in force against the track at the tire due to leverage change from decreased lever arm distance from the roll center (or just centerline of the car) and the tire contact patch. It will roll more because bringing in the tire brings in the tire contact patch, which if you draw all the "roll center lines" and connections, that lowers the roll center. Also, if you just think about it in terms of the shorter lever arm, much like having a long vs short kick stand on a bike, the short one is easier to tip over than the long one.

Wayne
To me this description doesn't make sense, but it sounds like you are describing the effects correctly. The leverage points doesn't move with a bar, you are adding a second spring, if you will, which yes, it attached at a different point, but unless you go with a softer spring, the net results is stiffer roll resistance.
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:29 AM   #8441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
To me this description doesn't make sense, but it sounds like you are describing the effects correctly. The leverage points doesn't move with a bar, you are adding a second spring, if you will, which yes, it attached at a different point, but unless you go with a softer spring, the net results is stiffer roll resistance.
He is not speaking about the antiroll bar but about narrowing the rear end using toe inserts.
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:41 AM   #8442
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Yeah, I was not talking about the sway bar. Dunno how we got wires crossed there. I was talking about narrowing the rear end.
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:49 AM   #8443
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Use the Kyosho gear and seal grease KYOXGS151...I put it in the o-rings as well as on the paper seal and I have minimum to no oil in my case

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Old 10-17-2013, 11:03 AM   #8444
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Yeah, I was not talking about the sway bar. Dunno how we got wires crossed there. I was talking about narrowing the rear end.
My bad.
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:20 PM   #8445
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Originally Posted by nitroargi View Post
Use the Kyosho gear and seal grease KYOXGS151...I put it in the o-rings as well as on the paper seal and I have minimum to no oil in my case

thanks... any idea what kind of grease this is? i dont want to give kyosho another $10 or sp for 3g of generic grease X or Y... lithium or plain jane mechanical grease should do the trick here, shouldnt have to buy specific K products... i m too old for this

thank you

Paul
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