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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-01-2013, 09:01 AM   #8326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
No. My view on the subject is if I move to mid motor, run saddles, grind the rear plate down to move the battery all the way back, have a 1600+ gram car, then need more weight in the rear, then that is an indication that I've picked the wrong chassis layout for my track. Now, on the other hand, if I was well below weight, or at weight, running a shorty pack, then sure, I would have tried it, but my little front heavy piggy isn't putt'n on lead pants
LOL, Thank you for your insight.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:03 AM   #8327
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I was looking at Tebo setup and I can see he is using 3x1.4 and 2x1.6 shock piston. Are those Kyosho pistons? Can't seem to find them.

Also he uses Short and Medium ball end. is the medium part number KYOLA43? I can't find any short ball end though.

anyone kind enough to provide me with the part number? thanks
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:05 AM   #8328
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Originally Posted by powerslave View Post
The front brace is a running change.
The new brace has a notch in on the top when you look down on it when installed in the car. The old one was smooth across the top.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:13 AM   #8329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
The new brace has a notch in on the top when you look down on it when installed in the car. The old one was smooth across the top.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:15 AM   #8330
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Originally Posted by ednamode View Post
I was looking at Tebo setup and I can see he is using 3x1.4 and 2x1.6 shock piston. Are those Kyosho pistons? Can't seem to find them.

Also he uses Short and Medium ball end. is the medium part number KYOLA43? I can't find any short ball end though.

anyone kind enough to provide me with the part number? thanks
AE pistons fit, as do Losi pistons. I'm building a pair of RB6's for a friend with Tebo's latest RM and MM setups. Used Losi pistons (4x #55) in the RM car and AE pistons (what you mentioned above).

The builds have been very nice. I did notice the screws being a bit soft as Razathorn mentioned. The only thing I'm not crazy about is the bushings in the shock caps- they have some slight slop in them. But man, the shocks are soooo nice. Both cars are full option Yaiba Spec and are being built with identical electronics setups. Our home track is high bite, sticky clay but most tracks in the area are medium grip, hence two different cars. I'll post a fews pics of these beauties once complete.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:18 AM   #8331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ednamode View Post
I was looking at Tebo setup and I can see he is using 3x1.4 and 2x1.6 shock piston. Are those Kyosho pistons? Can't seem to find them.

Kraig, these could be Avid's too.

Part number AV1030-3x1.4-F and AV1030-2x1.6-F.

Or the Associated part numbers, ASC91351 for 1.6 and ASC91352.
Tapered pistons are ASC91347 for 1.6 and ASC91349 for 1.4.

He could have made his own too using KYOW5303-08


Also he uses Short and Medium ball end. is the medium part number KYOLA43? I can't find any short ball end though.

Kraig, you must be talking about the shocks right? If so, look at the first post. There you will find these, Shock Shaft Ends (S = W5015, M = 97038, L = KYOLA43).

anyone kind enough to provide me with the part number? thanks
Please see above comments.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:42 AM   #8332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerslave View Post
The front brace is a running change.
It also looks like the chassis has a few more holes for battery placement.

I have been running the RB6 since its release, i go threw front bumpers front arm holder and front arms.

Upgrades i would recommend rear hubs , suspension hangers and steering link.
Hmm didnt know about the chassis holes.

Rear hubs are nice, I wouldnt say a necessity but the adjustability is nice.
Although I havnt ran plastic ones to see what their durability is like.

Front arm holders tweak/twist a fair bit over time but I dont think its worth putting an alloy one in.

Only thing I've managed to break is a front hinge pin, turn buckle and a ball cup.
Turn buckle, I was stuck on a peg that was holding down some pipe and got hit up the rear.
Ball cup and hinge pin in a cart wheel.

Didn't know the hinge pin was broken till I got home and checked it all over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
I did notice the screws being a bit soft as Razathorn mentioned. The only thing I'm not crazy about is the bushings in the shock caps- they have some slight slop in them. But man, the shocks are soooo nice.
Squash the bushing with the nut, takes up the slop.

I thought the same of mine until I read on here a while ago about doing this.
Although I couldnt get the plastic nuts to do up enough (couldve just been overly worn though).
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:04 AM   #8333
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The only reason i go threw front end parts is from normal wear and tear on a hard abrasive track. The RB6 is a tank never had a DNF.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:00 PM   #8334
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The real question is should I buy the current rb6 or wait for the new version if they come out.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:33 PM   #8335
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Thanks Jonny! I'm building my car too and will be following Tebo latest setup. I don't think my local track is a high bite track but I will start from there. Look forward to see your pictures. I'm doing full option too, now very much waiting for all the options part to become available.

Update: I've found the AE piston and the part number is:

1) ASC91351 (2x1.6)
2) ASC91352 (3x1.4)

Hope this help to other members. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
AE pistons fit, as do Losi pistons. I'm building a pair of RB6's for a friend with Tebo's latest RM and MM setups. Used Losi pistons (4x #55) in the RM car and AE pistons (what you mentioned above).

The builds have been very nice. I did notice the screws being a bit soft as Razathorn mentioned. The only thing I'm not crazy about is the bushings in the shock caps- they have some slight slop in them. But man, the shocks are soooo nice. Both cars are full option Yaiba Spec and are being built with identical electronics setups. Our home track is high bite, sticky clay but most tracks in the area are medium grip, hence two different cars. I'll post a fews pics of these beauties once complete.

Last edited by ednamode; 10-01-2013 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:20 PM   #8336
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Rear hubs are nice, I wouldnt say a necessity but the adjustability is nice.
Although I havnt ran plastic ones to see what their durability is like.
You can get plastic rear hubs with the extra holes that the alloy ones have um519b2
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:05 PM   #8337
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Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
Squash the bushing with the nut, takes up the slop.

I thought the same of mine until I read on here a while ago about doing this.
Although I couldnt get the plastic nuts to do up enough (couldve just been overly worn though).
Thanks for the tip. I too left the plastic nuts on, more so to not have a chance of scratching the caps... I'll have to swap them out to metal nylocs.
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:52 PM   #8338
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I've gone through 3 plastic hubs in the time I've had my RB6 which isnt too bad but the aluminum is diffidently a must in my opinion, there's a reason most other cars come with them.
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:48 AM   #8339
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With over 500 pages, it's really hard to find my question that I have that may have already been asked.

I'm running a RB6 and weighs in at 1586grams
I have Titanium screws installed
and a Yaiba rear bulk head installed as the plastic one didn't last long.

What other things can I get to shave some weigh off please?
Looking at maybe 30 grams to loose if possible.
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Old 10-02-2013, 05:22 AM   #8340
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Originally Posted by Rcnutguy View Post
With over 500 pages, it's really hard to find my question that I have that may have already been asked.

I'm running a RB6 and weighs in at 1586grams
I have Titanium screws installed
and a Yaiba rear bulk head installed as the plastic one didn't last long.

What other things can I get to shave some weigh off please?
Looking at maybe 30 grams to loose if possible.
- Avid Triad Slipper + Triad Kyosho Aluminum Topshaft
- Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles

I use both those products and can recommend for great quality. I would also say the Avid Triad slipper is a performance upgrade.

Another product if you are racing stock is the MIP Pucks™, 17.5 Drive System, Kyosho RB5/RB6 #13165. I've not used it, don't know how much weight it saves overall, but they advertise 50% reduction in rotating mass.

Other's may have other suggestions.
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