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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-29-2013, 06:42 PM   #8296
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Ok I am making the switch from B4.2 to the ultima rb6. Has anyone made this switch? Also what parts should I stock on for the rb6?
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:45 PM   #8297
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Ok I am making the switch from B4.2 to the ultima rb6. Has anyone made this switch? Also what parts should I stock on for the rb6?
I have and love it. read the front page of this thread it gives you all the basics.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:22 PM   #8298
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Or try tuning for the conditions. Play with camber links and roll centers. Add toe. Take out some sideguard screws and get some flex in there for more traction.
I did a lot of changes. I tried front and rear roll center changes, camber link lengths, shock oils, custom rear roll center changes (shimmed rear arms up with gull wing kit arms), rear sway bar with lower roll center on both kit and 521-1 arms, higher rear roll center via hubs, different hub and camber plate holes, different ride heights, basically chased it for 2 weeks. Tebo's setup was pretty much the best the car got in mid motor with just shock oil and camber specifically tuned for the track, and it was amazing if the track was stuck, but if the track got slippery, the rear motors had a definite advantage.

I went back today and did some track testing with different tires and the story was pretty much the same. It's not horrible, but it's not competitive with other people previously my speed when we both ran rear motor.

I can definitely feel the awesomeness of mid-motor, where it would be faster, and it IS better when the track is stuck, incredible even, but I have to go with what works overall for our track, which is medium traction on average, and often, especially the mains, packed and dry loose.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:13 PM   #8299
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I did a lot of changes. I tried front and rear roll center changes, camber link lengths, shock oils, custom rear roll center changes (shimmed rear arms up with gull wing kit arms), rear sway bar with lower roll center on both kit and 521-1 arms, higher rear roll center via hubs, different hub and camber plate holes, different ride heights, basically chased it for 2 weeks. Tebo's setup was pretty much the best the car got in mid motor with just shock oil and camber specifically tuned for the track, and it was amazing if the track was stuck, but if the track got slippery, the rear motors had a definite advantage.

I went back today and did some track testing with different tires and the story was pretty much the same. It's not horrible, but it's not competitive with other people previously my speed when we both ran rear motor.

I can definitely feel the awesomeness of mid-motor, where it would be faster, and it IS better when the track is stuck, incredible even, but I have to go with what works overall for our track, which is medium traction on average, and often, especially the mains, packed and dry loose.
Did you by chance happen to try hanging some weight in the back of the car...say about 15 grams or whatever Tebo had on the back of his? Just curious.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:15 PM   #8300
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I did a lot of changes. I tried front and rear roll center changes, camber link lengths, shock oils, custom rear roll center changes (shimmed rear arms up with gull wing kit arms), rear sway bar with lower roll center on both kit and 521-1 arms, higher rear roll center via hubs, different hub and camber plate holes, different ride heights, basically chased it for 2 weeks. Tebo's setup was pretty much the best the car got in mid motor with just shock oil and camber specifically tuned for the track, and it was amazing if the track was stuck, but if the track got slippery, the rear motors had a definite advantage.

I went back today and did some track testing with different tires and the story was pretty much the same. It's not horrible, but it's not competitive with other people previously my speed when we both ran rear motor.

I can definitely feel the awesomeness of mid-motor, where it would be faster, and it IS better when the track is stuck, incredible even, but I have to go with what works overall for our track, which is medium traction on average, and often, especially the mains, packed and dry loose.
I've had pretty much the same results. I may try Ty's set up with the saddles turned sideways all the way back.....just to try.....but my home track is smiliar........medium bite...but gets dry and dusty pretty fast.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:27 PM   #8301
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Hey guys, for the Exotek alum diff nut, what's the purpose of the enclosed black shim piece? Thanks,
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:28 PM   #8302
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I have run my 22 mid motor since it came out and learned a lot how mid motor works... Pro squat is the key to get forward bite... 0 degree anti-squat and add 2mm shims on the RF hanger to get 2 degree of Pro-squat what it does is force the weight to be transferred on the rear to give you more forward bite, try using longest link on the rear, 2mm on inner/outer ball stud, believe or not transverse battery position will give a lot of forward bite but the car will be unpredictable to drive in corners and its not well balance mounting the battery that way...
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:58 PM   #8303
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Anyone have a part numbers for aluminum balls that work with the Kyosho shock ends?
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:00 AM   #8304
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Use the Losi 22 ones on the kyosho lower shock ends work great.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:14 AM   #8305
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Awesome, thanks!
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:24 AM   #8306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
Did you by chance happen to try hanging some weight in the back of the car...say about 15 grams or whatever Tebo had on the back of his? Just curious.
No. My view on the subject is if I move to mid motor, run saddles, grind the rear plate down to move the battery all the way back, have a 1600+ gram car, then need more weight in the rear, then that is an indication that I've picked the wrong chassis layout for my track. Now, on the other hand, if I was well below weight, or at weight, running a shorty pack, then sure, I would have tried it, but my little front heavy piggy isn't putt'n on lead pants
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:29 AM   #8307
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What weight did Tebo use?
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:03 PM   #8308
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Default Tebo @ Worlds

Regarding pistons, the Worlds winning setup sheet says 3x1.2 and 2x1.6 (possibly AE items) but are those tapered or flat ones?

Thx.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:08 PM   #8309
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Originally Posted by Gayosaka View Post
Regarding pistons, the Worlds winning setup sheet says 3x1.2 and 2x1.6 (possibly AE items) but are those tapered or flat ones?

Thx.
They are probably the Kyosho blank pistons that he custom drilled.

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Old 09-30-2013, 04:08 PM   #8310
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What weight did Tebo use?
He said on his blog today that he removed the weight during his practice runs and did not put it back on.
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