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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-29-2012, 10:13 PM   #811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdowney View Post
(Yes, I know about multi-quote. Just reading back through old posts. Sorry...)

I mounted my Futaba Rx, which is bigger than the KO, right side up along the side of the battery. I just layered up about eight pieces of servo tape to build a flat spot for the Rx. Seems to work fine. We'll see if it holds up. Mounted the R10 capacitor opposite the Rx but in its side. Power switch mounts vertically on the side of the rear bulkhead behind the ESC on the right side.

I think this is what Jared did too.

Mike
What setup do you currently have on yours? Chris (local Kyosho Privateer) put the UM521-1 rear arms on his car and loves it now.
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:46 PM   #812
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
What setup do you currently have on yours? Chris (local Kyosho Privateer) put the UM521-1 rear arms on his car and loves it now.
Cant you just flip the stock ones to get the 1 hole?
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:52 PM   #813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azz28 View Post
funny u should mention this my mate had two ball studs strip straight out of the rear bulkhead the other night..... not from a shunt either weird .... so i have put longer ones in mine also with a nut on them !!
I had the same thing happening to me. Running mid, and when I tried the outer hole on the chassis side, the bulkhead split in 2 upon landing the triple (wasn't even a crash). Yes I had the grub screw on the other hole and no I didn't over-tighten. The bulkheah's too too thin at that point IMHO and the ball studs should come in 8mm thread there. I had to revert to inner hole and I put a longer stud with a nut to clamp it down.
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Old 09-30-2012, 03:29 AM   #814
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To add the grub screws to fill in the additional holes in the bulkhead, what mm size are they? Thanks
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Old 09-30-2012, 04:26 AM   #815
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you woulduse a 3mm grub screw so if you needed that hole for later adjustments you could just remove the grub screw I've been doing this in all k cars forever and rarely have failures in these areas. also on this build i decided to start taping even plastic holes to prolong the durability.

is anyone building any weight into their cars like we did in the 5? i gotta say i really like the little slotts for hiding the wiring really makes things look clean
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:55 AM   #816
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can anybody tell me the part nr. of the body?
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:22 AM   #817
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Originally Posted by florianlaux View Post
can anybody tell me the part nr. of the body?
The new Kyosho RB6 Blade body is UMB03.
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:16 AM   #818
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thanks!
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Old 09-30-2012, 11:20 AM   #819
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Cant you just flip the stock ones to get the 1 hole?
you could but there is still gonna be a difference between the new arm and the old arm since the new one has the kick up where the hub mounts
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:52 PM   #820
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Originally Posted by savageboy69 View Post
you could but there is still gonna be a difference between the new arm and the old arm since the new one has the kick up where the hub mounts
I have the UM521-1 arms on order. Will do a back to back run on them and see what the "feel" difference is between the two.
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:14 PM   #821
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Originally Posted by savageboy69 View Post
you could but there is still gonna be a difference between the new arm and the old arm since the new one has the kick up where the hub mounts
So the new one has more droop then? Kind of like the drop down arms they came out with? I think I read that these are basically those but built in.


Here's mine with the electronics mounted up.

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Old 09-30-2012, 02:48 PM   #822
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Good evening guys!

I am a 1/8TT nitro "player", and while i live in Portugal and we have sunny days almost all year, it rains sometimes. Mostly on weekends... ahahah

So i decided to get an electric 1/10 car so i can practice, even on rainy days. I tought about a Losi 22, but then i saw this new Kyosho. Anyone with experience from both cars to give me some lights about the differences between them?

Thanks in advance, Tiago
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Old 09-30-2012, 02:57 PM   #823
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Well first time out and car was awesome. Got lucky all the Kyosho guys were at the track so I got some help. Started with the Tebo WCRC set up. Car was dialed.

Issues. Didn't have the long ball studs and grub screws. Bad move. 2 laps stripped. Replaced that, put in long ball studs and good to go.

Also couldn't ge the slipper adjusted right. Needed to compress the spring more, scrub up the slippers with scotch brite and good to go.

Had a blast and was running faster than my old B4.1. Car is very durable. Plenty of short bus poundings and no issues.

Next time out just need to solve for a little more steering and I will be golden.

Enjoy and don't forget those long ball studs.
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Old 09-30-2012, 06:50 PM   #824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
you woulduse a 3mm grub screw so if you needed that hole for later adjustments you could just remove the grub screw I've been doing this in all k cars forever and rarely have failures in these areas. also on this build i decided to start taping even plastic holes to prolong the durability.

is anyone building any weight into their cars like we did in the 5? i gotta say i really like the little slotts for hiding the wiring really makes things look clean
Guys the instructions say to put the 3x3 set screws in the rear, and there supplied. I'm not quite seeing how a longer ball stud in the front hub makes a difference unless you can get a nut on it somehow
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:38 PM   #825
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The longer ballstud always makes a difference, especially if it has a spacer under it. It's a matter of leverage/spreading the load out. I've been putting longer ballstuds in my builds for years.
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