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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-19-2013, 04:54 PM   #8191
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I didn't have a single problem with any of my screws and after many tear downs and swaps between mid and rear motor I still haven't stripped a single one.
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:39 PM   #8192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1 View Post
Clay compounds work best when there is moisture in the clay.
If it's dry soft or super soft will work better.

Dayton
at irh i noticed that panther ss slicks worked in all conditions even when clay didnt work for others (most likely when it was dry). i also sauced w epic green dot.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:05 PM   #8193
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Hi,

i am just finishing my rear motor build to race at island hobbies this fall and winter. i figured id start rear motor and go from there. i got the new alloy hangars for the rear and wanted to know if anyone raced rear motor what was a good setup please? should i do the narrow inserts or wide setup? and with stock rear a-arms or um521-1 arms and with which respective insert for the new version hangars? also a general setup would be appreciated if possible. was concerned about battery placement as well. if any one could help with particular track i would greatly appreciate the help. thanks in advance.

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Old 09-20-2013, 12:34 AM   #8194
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Hey Everyone,

I thought I would provide a quick MM update.

First of all here is the current layout that I've been running for about two weeks.......

Car has been good but I think it could be better.....



I started out with the stock pistons and 30/25 oil just as Hara used at WCRC......car was bouncy.....went to a white AE spring in rear....car had more rear bite on power......but not as much as I had hoped for....I then went to a higher rear roll center and things got better........

Next week I went to 4 hole #55 pistons and UM521-1 rear arms.....and .5 degree hubs...... oil was 35/32.5 and now 35/30. Car has been pretty damn good.....although I'm now disassembling it to go Saddles.....I'm convinced the extra weight is the answer to getting this car dialed on lower bite surfaces.

A few guys at my local track also run very soft suspension packages on their rear motor cars......something in the neighborhood of 4 hole #55 pistons with 25/25 or 27.5/25 and they have had good results......may end up giving that a whirl......

Oh yeah....after talking to Carson Wernimont I decided to add more droop.......MAN WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Made the car fun to drive as opposed to punishing when you land flat bottom.......which CAN be faster in certain portions of certain tracks...........not all jumps are faster when downsided

Oh well....thats it...I should have a video out soon on this car.....so far I'm pretty impressed.
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Old 09-20-2013, 01:14 AM   #8195
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My current setup for mid motor, waiting on a rudebits lipo tray and will move the receiver to the back of the car so I can shift the weight around a bit more.

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Old 09-20-2013, 06:52 AM   #8196
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What battery strap is that?
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:56 AM   #8197
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Latest post on Tebo's blog is quite interesting...

http://jtprc.com/2013/09/20/car-chec...-ifmar-worlds/
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:52 AM   #8198
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What's interesting is he isn't using the KIY radio
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:36 AM   #8199
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That an the fact that he's only running an 8.5. I wonder if he uses boost, or is trying to limit wheelspin. I guess it does help things from getting out of hand too fast, but the Orions don't have insane bottom end to begin with.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:13 AM   #8200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta View Post
That an the fact that he's only running an 8.5. I wonder if he uses boost, or is trying to limit wheelspin. I guess it does help things from getting out of hand too fast, but the Orions don't have insane bottom end to begin with.
Tebo has been running a 7.5 for quite awhile.

I was more interested in why he chose to go with a shorty instead of the saddles he has been running.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:18 AM   #8201
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I think the interesting part of Tebo's latest mm setting was actually the shorty Lipo. Previously on all his set up he is using saddle, and the fact that the shorty is placed like what you did on a RM is also something we can all think about.

So for MM, shorty or saddle? Hara's method or Tebo's? This is gonna be a very interesting worlds :-D
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:17 AM   #8202
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Maybe I am reading to much into this or just not able to comprehend what is being said. With that said, perhaps IFMAR doesn't have the same or similar battery rules as ROAR as to how they are mounted into the car? Thus his decision on the choice of battery to use has changed.
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Old 09-20-2013, 01:13 PM   #8203
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What gearing is a good starting point for a 8.5 turn motor
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Old 09-20-2013, 01:15 PM   #8204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgonz View Post
What gearing is a good starting point for a 8.5 turn motor
I am running 22/78 right now.
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:12 AM   #8205
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Does anyone run drag brake....I've only ever ran Stock with no drag brake. I am now starting to run Mod and was wondering what most prefer drag or no drag
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