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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-16-2013, 04:49 PM   #8176
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Finished putting the car back to midship, trying the stock rear arms this time, I like that I can fine tune the wheelbase more with them for one, also trying a few other geometry changes that aren't often used. When I ran mid last time at our track I ended up with the shorty forward, but inline, so I think sideways and forward a bit will still work. I would like to fit a battery strap and not rely on tape, but I have to make something.
I ran this setup on friday, started off with a 10.5 motor and running with the mod guys, would still wheelie everywhere, lol. The balance felt good though, the mid setup does struggle on tight 180s, as others have noticed, but the was consistent.
I wanted to try in 17.5 as well, so I switched out the motor/spur and left the setup, and the car still felt really good. I'm going to try some small changes, and also run the batt inline and forward just to see how it feels. (that was the config I ran last time I ran MM). I am running the exotek mid narrow hanger setup, so far I prefer this over the wide blocks.
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:11 AM   #8177
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I set my car up with the narrowest possible setting and used .5 hubs and shorty pack sideways at the back. This is with the stock rear arms.
I did this for the most possible grip as this is my first mid motor car.

The car was fantastic, easy to drive and was still very stable when driven aggressively.

I let a few people drive it after the event and 2 of the guys now have my setup on their cars and a 3rd is working on getting a Rb6.

Dayton
Did you have to change the shock mounts at all? I run C in right now but was thinking about the narrow one as well. I would assume it stands the shock up more as well.
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:42 AM   #8178
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Questions?? rear mtoe

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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Did you have to change the shock mounts at all? I run C in right now but was thinking about the narrow one as well. I would assume it stands the shock up more as well.
So to go narrower and maintain 3 degrees of toe would be D in / D in ?
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:46 AM   #8179
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So to go narrower and maintain 3 degrees of toe would be D in / D in ?
Correct. That is the narrowest setting with 3 deg toe-in.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:51 AM   #8180
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During the initial parts of my build last night, I do have two complaints to make against this kit.

The first one is relatively easily solved with a screw kit, but is pretty disappointing in a kit that is so pricey, which is that the screw heads are softer than I would expect. I haven't stripped any out and use good hardened wrenches, but some of the longer screws that took more time to screw in (such as attaching the front end to the chassis) definitely looked like, if I had to take them in and out a lot, they would round out and need to be slotted and backed out based on the wear the head had just from installing them.

The second complaint is the diff t-nut plastic is pretty thin—I had a little excess hanging out of the outdrives and I went to trim it level with the outdrive with a sharp xacto knife and it broke off one of the pegs. I'm hoping the t-nut works well enough with one peg in one slot of the outdrive until I can get a replacement.

Wayne
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:42 AM   #8181
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
During the initial parts of my build last night, I do have two complaints to make against this kit.

The first one is relatively easily solved with a screw kit, but is pretty disappointing in a kit that is so pricey, which is that the screw heads are softer than I would expect. I haven't stripped any out and use good hardened wrenches, but some of the longer screws that took more time to screw in (such as attaching the front end to the chassis) definitely looked like, if I had to take them in and out a lot, they would round out and need to be slotted and backed out based on the wear the head had just from installing them.

The second complaint is the diff t-nut plastic is pretty thin—I had a little excess hanging out of the outdrives and I went to trim it level with the outdrive with a sharp xacto knife and it broke off one of the pegs. I'm hoping the t-nut works well enough with one peg in one slot of the outdrive until I can get a replacement.

Wayne
I would have to agree with you. Great kit but terrible screws
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Old 09-17-2013, 11:51 AM   #8182
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I would have to agree with you. Great kit but terrible screws
I feel its more that the plastic is just hard, if you sacrifice a few other screws and pre thread the holes, from then on, they thread very nice.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:27 PM   #8183
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I dislike the diff assembly on the RB6. The plastic t nut is like you said very thin. After building AE diffs for a while, they are so easy and hold up well.

I broke my plastic nut so I upgraded to a Extoek piece.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
During the initial parts of my build last night, I do have two complaints to make against this kit.

The first one is relatively easily solved with a screw kit, but is pretty disappointing in a kit that is so pricey, which is that the screw heads are softer than I would expect. I haven't stripped any out and use good hardened wrenches, but some of the longer screws that took more time to screw in (such as attaching the front end to the chassis) definitely looked like, if I had to take them in and out a lot, they would round out and need to be slotted and backed out based on the wear the head had just from installing them.

The second complaint is the diff t-nut plastic is pretty thin—I had a little excess hanging out of the outdrives and I went to trim it level with the outdrive with a sharp xacto knife and it broke off one of the pegs. I'm hoping the t-nut works well enough with one peg in one slot of the outdrive until I can get a replacement.

Wayne
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:03 PM   #8184
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Originally Posted by skengines View Post
I dislike the diff assembly on the RB6. The plastic t nut is like you said very thin. After building AE diffs for a while, they are so easy and hold up well.

I broke my plastic nut so I upgraded to a Extoek piece.
I ran an rb5 for quite a while in the past and the rb6 tnut is the same part and I never had an issue with it. It's mainly a problem for those of us who have AE diff building down to a speedy process and just went on auto pilot and tried to trim the K tnut like it was an AE tnut, which is far tougher.

Having said that, the K design does offer a benefit—when the locknut finally starts backing off, you can just throw another nut in there that you can source from a lot of different places.
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:20 PM   #8185
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Default My custom saddle setup

Took a hint from tebo and team to run the saddles all the way back by grinding down the motor guard and went one step further and chopped up the front holder and mounted them with some longer screws back a bit more on the chassis. This frees up some room up front for electronics compared to running the front holder just turned around. It also allows you to use the plastic stock strap as it now reaches the motor guard well. The strap flexes to account for the posts being closer thanks to being plastic.
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:37 PM   #8186
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Has anyone ran into the issue of the o-rings for the shocks being absolutely huge compared to what they're supposed to fit in? I'm not talking about the o-rings for the shafts, I'm talking about the o-rings for the shock cap, cartridge, and body. It's like they're for the 1/8 scale. Is this the norm? Do you just have to squeeze these guys in?

EDIT: Nevermind. I had misplaced the smallest ones and was mistaking everything for one size smaller than it was. For example, I was thinking the ones that go in the collars were the cap ones, and of course, those were huge.
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Last edited by Razathorn; 09-18-2013 at 06:52 PM. Reason: My bad.
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:40 PM   #8187
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Do any of you race on a track where m3/4 and clay all work? When is clay the right compound to use?
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:16 PM   #8188
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Do any of you race on a track where m3/4 and clay all work? When is clay the right compound to use?
Clay compounds work best when there is moisture in the clay.
If it's dry soft or super soft will work better.

Dayton
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:35 PM   #8189
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Do any of you race on a track where m3/4 and clay all work? When is clay the right compound to use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1 View Post
Clay compounds work best when there is moisture in the clay.
If it's dry soft or super soft will work better.

Dayton
We get the same results locally. Clay tires only work when the track is damp. We don't water the track on race day, so clay tires have never worked for me.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:50 PM   #8190
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Did you have to change the shock mounts at all? I run C in right now but was thinking about the narrow one as well. I would assume it stands the shock up more as well.
I ran the same shock mount locations as I did with rear motor and standard narrow blocks.
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