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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Last edit by: tobamiester

RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

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New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:

Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:

Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:

MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
- MM3 bulkhead
- Laydown bulkhead
- Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):

Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
- transmission cases
- spacers
- caps
- plastic FR & RR suspension hangers
Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):

Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
- transmission cases
- spacers
- caps
- required extra hardware
- pastic FR suspension hanger
40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:

Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:

Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).

Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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09-02-2013, 10:07 AM

#8056

RShockley

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kes7u

Alright. I have a bit of a conundrum. I am building my rb6 kit, and haven't built a kit since my original Losi JRX2. I used a regular pair of coarse pliers when building the front turnbuckles, along with a turnbuckle wrench. All of the front plastic pieces are fairly well scuffed from the pliers. Certainly usable, but a little bit ugly. I subsequently build the rears using a wrench on the plastic parts. They turned out beautifully! Now. Do I give in to vanity and go back and rebuild the fronts with new plastic pieces? I can always use the current ones as back ups.

Kevin

I would but I go a bit overboard on making sure my cars look good.

09-02-2013, 10:24 AM

#8057

Life_livin

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I would too just because I like my cars looking good and ballcups are such a crucial part of the car I don't take any chances where their strength could be compromised.

09-02-2013, 10:32 AM

#8058

Kuya_Kimo

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kes7u

Use a dremmel sanding bit and work out some scruffs on the ball cups to save money, the ball cups aren't bad or weak, just scratched.

09-02-2013, 04:02 PM

#8059

MikeXray

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Ran the car at a hard packed outdoor track, learned how important tires are! The car worked really well when I made the right tire choice, but for some reason in the main I had no rear bite. A few locals ran mid motor and did well.

09-02-2013, 04:24 PM

#8060

Jason Snyder

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I just ordered up a RB6......gonna try out mid motor..looking forward to it.....

I just got an Mp9e TKi and its pretty nice......

I've been die hard team associated for a long time......curious to see how the build goes!

09-02-2013, 04:32 PM

#8061

Fred Perkins

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeXray

You prob ran the wrong tires for the main. Vineland gets slippery at night. You have to go back to where you started the day. I ran handlebars in round 3 and went back to impacts for the mains.

09-02-2013, 04:52 PM

#8062

Life_livin

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason Snyder

It is a little harder to build than a b4.2 but you will be able to tell right away how much higher quality it is. You will love it I know I did!

09-02-2013, 05:03 PM

#8063

MikeXray

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred Perkins

You prob ran the wrong tires for the main. Vineland gets slippery at night. You have to go back to where you started the day. I ran handlebars in round 3 and went back to impacts for the mains.

Yup, that's what I was thinking, with the long break and cooler temps, even though it was blown off well, it seemed a bit more slick. If I had went back to holeshots I prob would have been fine.

09-02-2013, 07:40 PM

#8064

Bob Barry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred Perkins

You prob ran the wrong tires for the main. Vineland gets slippery at night. You have to go back to where you started the day. I ran handlebars in round 3 and went back to impacts for the mains.

Fred's dead on. At this track you typically have 3-4 setups.

Practice
Rd 1&2
Rd 3
Mains

Setups can be just tires or totally different changes. To give you an example, I ran the following

practice - Green Flipouts w/ open cell foam & 8175 M3 fronts
Rd 1 - super soft impacts (1 run on them) w/open cell foam & 8175 M3 fronts
Rd 2 - super soft impacts (2 runs on them) w/open cell foam & 8175 M3 fronts
Rd 3 - super soft Handlebars (STD new) w/ closed cell foam & soft handlebars w/ 3/4 rear insert fronts
Mains super soft impacts (new) w/open cell foam & 8175 M3 fronts

I also made a few setup changes along the way to take traction away. I reversed them AFTER rd 3. If you ever are in doubt, always go with a M3/M4 Holeshot. The newer the better.