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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-27-2013, 12:53 PM   #7981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cspurlock View Post
2 deg anti squat is kit standard. In my experience, it has the same effect as RM when you change it.

I have played with weight balance and was actually able to get 65% of cars total weight onto the rear wheels. Yes, I had traction, but the car didn't feel as good as mine does now. IMO after trying one of the team drivers setups where they used a saddle pack pushed all the way back, it was clear that their setup worked better than mine and that getting all that weight over the rear tires, wasn't the only way to yield traction.
2deg. Perfect. That's good to know. Kyosho doesn't make it easy to know. LOL.

Next question on changing anti squat with the mid setup. There's a couple of kit supplied shims that go between the rear arm mount and bulkhead. A .5 and 1mm shim if I remember right. Would you switch that out or, just change the shim on the front arm mount, or both to get the desired degree od anti squat? I'm thinking the easiest would be to just play with the front arm mount shim, but it may not be the correct or only way.

You can pm me that setup to look at if you don't mind. Never hurts to have options to explore.
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:57 PM   #7982
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
2 biggest things that mady my midmotor setup actually work well...

1. 0.5* hubs installed
2. side pods dremmeled so the shorty could sit sideways all the way against the rear bracce in the back.

i tried different configurations and ended up where your electronics are now.
Might have to play with the .5 hubs. That could be helpful and an easy change to make. Thank you.

Thought about the side ways shorty setup. Wasn't ready to hack up the side pods at that time, but may have to consider doing just that. Did you leave the elec. placement all the way up front like that, or move them back some so there was a little less front weight bias?
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:01 PM   #7983
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Another must have for mid (IMO) are the new adjustable hangers w/ inserts. The narrow settings will lock in the rear a little more.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:38 PM   #7984
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Another must have for mid (IMO) are the new adjustable hangers w/ inserts. The narrow settings will lock in the rear a little more.
Saw those,

They're on the list of stuff I want/need. LOL. Be nice if they would just label the inserts as +1,2,3,4 for wide toe in and -1,2,3,4 for narrow of the same thing.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:44 PM   #7985
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I did sideways shorty on my midmotor. My 17.5 rtr is 1524 grams! Way lighter than the RM setup I had on her same electronics thinner wire though (but thats maybe 5-10 grams). Will run it this weekend. The weight balance changes a lot compared to the inline mid motor. The CG went behind by a 3/4 inch rough estimate.
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:18 AM   #7986
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at first I was like...


then I was like...


now Im like...


Rebuilt my RB6 from a new kit. Only think I reused from my old car were the shocks and the diff since I rebuilt them only 4 days ago.

All new upgrades added too.
Includes:
Kyosho steering rack
Kyosho V1 .5* hubs
Kyosho rear pivot blocks with inserts
Kyosho Titanium screw kit
Kyosho vented slipper discs
Kyosho vented motor plate
Kyosho RB5 front axles
KO Propo Rsx servo (the KO aluminum servo arm doesn't fit the RB6)


I cant wait to get my new motor and solder this up! Orion R10 paired up to a D3.5 17.5 Maxzilla. (may try the LRP Flow)
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:29 AM   #7987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbons2k View Post
at first I was like...

then I was like...
now Im like..Rebuilt my RB6 from a new kit. Only think I reused from my old car were the shocks and the diff since I rebuilt them only 4 days ago.

All new upgrades added too.
Includes:
Kyosho steering rack
Kyosho V1 .5* hubs
Kyosho rear pivot blocks with inserts
Kyosho Titanium screw kit
Kyosho vented slipper discs
Kyosho vented motor plate
Kyosho RB5 front axles
KO Propo Rsx servo (the KO aluminum servo arm doesn't fit the RB6)


I cant wait to get my new motor and solder this up! Orion R10 paired up to a D3.5 17.5 Maxzilla. (may try the LRP Flow)
It looks like you are using a AE spur and pads with the stock Kyosho plates, this can cause issues since the plates are a bit too big and hit the plastic groove holding in the pad before hitting the actual pad. Grab a avid topshaft and B4 plates.
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:39 AM   #7988
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I have the AE slipper and pads. Ive had them in the car before and never had an issue. If it starts to bother me Ill swap it out. Thanks for the heads up
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:14 AM   #7989
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boy you got a purty mou..... oh wait. Nice looking rebuild

I'm expecting a huge box o goodies today.....

#hugeakatireorderftw!
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:21 AM   #7990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
boy you got a purty mou..... oh wait. Nice looking rebuild

I'm expecting a huge box o goodies today.....

#hugeakatireorderftw!
What.... no slicks?
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:42 AM   #7991
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Originally Posted by carbons2k View Post
What.... no slicks?
you can keep your slicks!

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Old 08-28-2013, 07:50 AM   #7992
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Might have to play with the .5 hubs. That could be helpful and an easy change to make. Thank you.

Thought about the side ways shorty setup. Wasn't ready to hack up the side pods at that time, but may have to consider doing just that. Did you leave the elec. placement all the way up front like that, or move them back some so there was a little less front weight bias?
Hack em up there only 10$ and it makes a huge difference.(all the way to the rear). Kept all te electronics up front but you can put them in a perfect line because now you have so much more room with the batter sideways. Looks super clean too. No need for the battery braces either just the posts. The side pods will now hold it in place from shifting around.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:06 AM   #7993
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are there any benefits to running a gear diff over a ball diff?
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:22 AM   #7994
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durability and less maintenance once set.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:23 AM   #7995
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Originally Posted by carbons2k View Post
I have the AE slipper and pads. Ive had them in the car before and never had an issue. If it starts to bother me Ill swap it out. Thanks for the heads up
Really? It sure looks like you are using the kyosho slipper plates to me. You can tell because they are larger than the outer circumfrence of the pads. That means that the slipper plate will actually be sitting up against the plastic of the gear, instead of the slipper disk. It will work for a week or two, but as soon as slipper pad starts to thin out, you will run into trouble.

The slipper plate needs to sit on the slipper pad, 100%.
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