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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-23-2013, 08:57 AM   #7966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
To make a gear diff for the RB5/RB6,you need the:
  • Kyosho UM605 Diff Gear Set
  • Kyosho UM610 Diff Bevel Gear Set
  • Kyosho UM611 Diff Case Packing
  • Kyosho UM612 Diff Shaft
  • Kyosho ORG045S Silicone O-Ring

If you want you can use steel bevel gear set:
  • Kyosho V-OneR4 Steel Diff Bevel Gear Set, VZW424

Source petitrc.com
looks like the pins to hold the gears are missing.....
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:04 AM   #7967
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Originally Posted by carbons2k View Post
looks like the pins to hold the gears are missing.....
My apologies. Most the time [email protected] is very complete with his lists. I didn't double check it. Looks like others parts are missing as well according to this list:

http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...41-c-1446.html
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:04 PM   #7968
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thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
Kyosho SP Front Suspension Plate Type-B (UM721)

Type B is what you want if you want to keep it stock according to the exploded view. It's the only part I seem to have to maintain. I've never broke it, but overtime it seems to warp/bend, giving a bit of toe-out to the inner hinge pins.
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:13 PM   #7969
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The front suspension mount block is a good place to use Aluminum.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:51 PM   #7970
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Got to get out for a little practice with the mid motor setup,

Overall, I'm pretty pleased. Car felt predictable even with the rear wanting to step out if traction wasn't up. It was a bit of a handful then, but carried a ton of corner speed.

Track is what I would call more along med. to maybe med-high traction for race days, and could be that or almost dry and loose feeling on a practice day (depending on how many are out for practice and/or how much it gets watered). Tire sauce is usually used for the best traction when the track is just wet to damp and the tires are broke in. When new or not running sauce, can add to the variables to account for when/if needing more or less traction.

Having never driven a mid motor setup and knowing that the local indoor track may not be the most ideal time to run a mid motor setup, I do think it could work pretty well and of course in the right hands, though many may prefer a more standard rear motor setup.

Now I have some questions that hopefully those that have played with a mid motor setup can help with;

Does any one know what amount of anti squat is built in to the mid rear end if built to the kit manual specs? Looking to know which way to go should I need to make a change for that.

Does a mid motor setup react the same as a rear motor setup would when making anti squat changes? For some reason I'm thinking that it may not.

My current mid motor setup has the rx and esc right behind the servo and then the shorty pack. I wanted to put the esc in the back like I had it on the rear motor setup, but couldn't make it work the way I wanted, so I'm pretty sure I have a little more front weight bias. Which isn't a total bad thing as the 2wd now feels a lot like my wheeler does when I have the most traction I can at the local track, but I'm thinking that I may need some weight added towards the rear when traction isn't as high.

Has or does anyone that run a similar elec. placement, use or add any weight rearward? I'm thinking about maybe adding a 1/2 oz. to help rebalance the car and give it just enough rear traction for when traction isn't as high.

I think that's about it for the mid questions. Sorry if they've been asked before, but didn't seen much mentioned that I felt would give me the answers I was looking for. Thanks for any help.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:59 AM   #7971
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Hey guys....I was reading the instructions for the new V2 hubs, what's the story with the table on the right??

Are these bearings suggestions for low/high traction tracks??
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:44 AM   #7972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
My current mid motor setup has the rx and esc right behind the servo and then the shorty pack. I wanted to put the esc in the back like I had it on the rear motor setup, but couldn't make it work the way I wanted, so I'm pretty sure I have a little more front weight bias. Which isn't a total bad thing as the 2wd now feels a lot like my wheeler does when I have the most traction I can at the local track, but I'm thinking that I may need some weight added towards the rear when traction isn't as high.

Has or does anyone that run a similar elec. placement, use or add any weight rearward? I'm thinking about maybe adding a 1/2 oz. to help rebalance the car and give it just enough rear traction for when traction isn't as high.
In that configuration, for medium to low traction, I've been running 14g on EACH side of the shorty pack, stuck to the side pods and moved back as far as possible. Then I play around with different amounts of weight on the rear bulkhead, up to 20g or so. So almost 50g added in the rear half of the chassis. You could also try saddles. My final weight usually varies between 1640-1680g. Also, the battery is only about 1/8" on front of the motor.

That's for mod buggy, FWIW. I probably wouldn't add any weight for 17.5.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:47 AM   #7973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Got to get out for a little practice with the mid motor setup,

Overall, I'm pretty pleased. Car felt predictable even with the rear wanting to step out if traction wasn't up. It was a bit of a handful then, but carried a ton of corner speed.

Track is what I would call more along med. to maybe med-high traction for race days, and could be that or almost dry and loose feeling on a practice day (depending on how many are out for practice and/or how much it gets watered). Tire sauce is usually used for the best traction when the track is just wet to damp and the tires are broke in. When new or not running sauce, can add to the variables to account for when/if needing more or less traction.

Having never driven a mid motor setup and knowing that the local indoor track may not be the most ideal time to run a mid motor setup, I do think it could work pretty well and of course in the right hands, though many may prefer a more standard rear motor setup.

Now I have some questions that hopefully those that have played with a mid motor setup can help with;

Does any one know what amount of anti squat is built in to the mid rear end if built to the kit manual specs? Looking to know which way to go should I need to make a change for that.

Does a mid motor setup react the same as a rear motor setup would when making anti squat changes? For some reason I'm thinking that it may not.

My current mid motor setup has the rx and esc right behind the servo and then the shorty pack. I wanted to put the esc in the back like I had it on the rear motor setup, but couldn't make it work the way I wanted, so I'm pretty sure I have a little more front weight bias. Which isn't a total bad thing as the 2wd now feels a lot like my wheeler does when I have the most traction I can at the local track, but I'm thinking that I may need some weight added towards the rear when traction isn't as high.

Has or does anyone that run a similar elec. placement, use or add any weight rearward? I'm thinking about maybe adding a 1/2 oz. to help rebalance the car and give it just enough rear traction for when traction isn't as high.

I think that's about it for the mid questions. Sorry if they've been asked before, but didn't seen much mentioned that I felt would give me the answers I was looking for. Thanks for any help.
2 deg anti squat is kit standard. In my experience, it has the same effect as RM when you change it.

I have played with weight balance and was actually able to get 65% of cars total weight onto the rear wheels. Yes, I had traction, but the car didn't feel as good as mine does now. IMO after trying one of the team drivers setups where they used a saddle pack pushed all the way back, it was clear that their setup worked better than mine and that getting all that weight over the rear tires, wasn't the only way to yield traction.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:02 AM   #7974
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The Fabulous One has got mid-motor figured out!
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:03 AM   #7975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cspurlock View Post
2 deg anti squat is kit standard. In my experience, it has the same effect as RM when you change it.

I have played with weight balance and was actually able to get 65% of cars total weight onto the rear wheels. Yes, I had traction, but the car didn't feel as good as mine does now. IMO after trying one of the team drivers setups where they used a saddle pack pushed all the way back, it was clear that their setup worked better than mine and that getting all that weight over the rear tires, wasn't the only way to yield traction.
So what setup did you use?



Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanJ View Post
The Fabulous One has got mid-motor figured out!
???? What setup are you running???
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:11 AM   #7976
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2 biggest things that mady my midmotor setup actually work well...

1. 0.5* hubs installed
2. side pods dremmeled so the shorty could sit sideways all the way against the rear bracce in the back.

i tried different configurations and ended up where your electronics are now.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:15 AM   #7977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank L View Post
So what setup did you use?


I am not using a setup that is posted anywhere, if you want it PM me your email and I will send you a setup sheet.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:16 AM   #7978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank L View Post
???? What setup are you running???
I was referring to Barry Baker. He's been ballistic with a mid RB6.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:00 PM   #7979
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This thread has to few video clips. Here is a lap on my local track. Tried midmotor on the track for the first time and did 0.1 seconds better than the track record that I had set previously with rear motor. In the clip i ran 0.3 seconds slower than the track record for 2wd.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:47 PM   #7980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanJ View Post
In that configuration, for medium to low traction, I've been running 14g on EACH side of the shorty pack, stuck to the side pods and moved back as far as possible. Then I play around with different amounts of weight on the rear bulkhead, up to 20g or so. So almost 50g added in the rear half of the chassis. You could also try saddles. My final weight usually varies between 1640-1680g. Also, the battery is only about 1/8" on front of the motor.

That's for mod buggy, FWIW. I probably wouldn't add any weight for 17.5.
Interesting. As that was a fair amount of more weight than I was even considering, but thank you for the info. For sure more things to ponder as I get into the mid setups more.
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