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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-19-2013, 10:35 AM   #7921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silveraider14 View Post
anyone?
Yes shorter = more gain but that does not always equal more steering, it depends on what part of the turn you need steering.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:57 AM   #7922
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I need more on power steering around a pretty long sweeper if that helps
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:16 AM   #7923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silveraider14 View Post
I need more on power steering around a pretty long sweeper if that helps
You have a few options.

Lengthen wheels base at the rear hubs,
Move battery forward
Stiffer rear spring

I would try them in that order.


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Old 08-19-2013, 12:42 PM   #7924
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I will try lengthening the wheel base but I am also thinking of trying out some different front tires. Right now I am running ss ions in the rear and ss full slots up front with open cell foams
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:39 PM   #7925
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Originally Posted by silveraider14 View Post
I will try lengthening the wheel base but I am also thinking of trying out some different front tires. Right now I am running ss ions in the rear and ss full slots up front with open cell foams
Are your rear suspension hangers wide or narrow? wide would help if they aren't already.
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:34 PM   #7926
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Are your rear suspension hangers wide or narrow? wide would help if they aren't already.
Can you describe the difference in handling between the wide and narrow hangers?
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:41 PM   #7927
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From post #1, Credit goes to Cpt.America

Wide Hangers: The wide hangers provide a wider rear track width. A wider rear track width does two things to the rear of the car: a) Provides a bit more stability over small bumps, and b) raises the roll center in the rear of the car - A higher roll center provides more roll resistance - More roll resistance means the rear of the car will roll less in the corners - Less roll means less traction gain throughout the corner. (i.e. use the wide hangers for more steering)

Narrow Hangers: The narrow hangers provide a more narrow rear track width. A narrow rear track width does two things to the rear of the car: a) Provides a bit less stability over small bumps, and b) lowers the roll center in the rear of the car - A lower roll center provides less roll resistance - Less roll resistance means the rear of the car will roll more in the corners - more roll means more traction gain throughout the corner. (i.e. use the narrow hangers for more rear traction in corners)
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:42 PM   #7928
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I have the wide ones on there.

I think the narrow give you more bite in the rear
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:42 PM   #7929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
Can you describe the difference in handling between the wide and narrow hangers?
Check out the first page of this thread, brandon does an good job of describing it.
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:59 PM   #7930
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easiest way to describe wide vs narrow....

Wide Hangers: Have more grip entering turns and through the middle
Narrow Hangers: Have less grip entering turns but more as you come out.

So if you are on a track is rough or loose, then I suggest Wide.
If you are on a high bite track that has grip and you need it to rotate, I would run Narrow.

You give up some stability with Narrow but gain grip on power coming out.
You gain stability with wide, especially entering a turn, but lose some grip coming out.

these are my observations anyway....
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:06 PM   #7931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silveraider14 View Post
I need more on power steering around a pretty long sweeper if that helps
here are some tuning tips I found a while ago and are the best simple advise I have come across and have help me the most (I would credit the person but cannot remember the RCTech user)

Intended goal = More overall steering
Reduce rear toe
Softer front spring/stiffer rear spring
Add a small amount of front toe out
Thinner front shock oil (mainly for low speed steering)

Notes: These adjustments are to add general steering. For more in depth break down, see them below.

Intended goal = More off power steering
Shorten front camber links
Lower front link on tower side and/or raise link on hub side
Reduce front caster/front kick up
Add more Ackermann angle
Move front shocks out on the tower/rear shocks in on tower

Notes: As you tune for off power steering you'll likely see a reduction in on power steering. Also remember that off power steering is only when you're not on the throttle or braking.

Intended goal = More on power steering
Lengthen front camber links
Raise front link on tower side and/or lower link on hub side
Add more front caster/front kick up
Increase anti-squat
Reduce Ackermann angle
Move front shocks in on tower/rear shocks out on tower

Notes: As you tune for on power steering you'll likely see less off power steering. Also a car with lots of forward bite is going to progressively have a harder time maintaining on power steering as the rear wheels will fight to push straight forward.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:17 PM   #7932
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I am gonna start with changing the front camber links to be shorter and I think its got a little push cause the ions are so locked down on the rear
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:38 PM   #7933
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Hey guys,

I've been out of offroad for a while, but had a chance to run James Arluck's RB6, in mid-motor on a sugared track, at NorCal Hobbies on Sunday. That's the best car I've ever run, super dialed. Testament to the car and to James' setup ability. The car has ridiculous potential, I definitely look forward to getting one.

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Old 08-20-2013, 01:45 AM   #7934
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Just installed the new aluminium rear hangers, made a massive difference to removing the slop in the rear end, the only slop I have now is from the aluminium hub carriers (or to be more precise the bearings, can wiggle the wheel and see the axle move about a bit).

They are also 3g heavier than stock if anyone was curious.
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:12 PM   #7935
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Just an FYI to those that feel the steering is inconsistent. Try moving your battery all the way forward. I did so on mine and the further forward I went the easier it was to drive it harder.
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