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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-19-2013, 06:38 AM   #7906
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A lighter car is an edgy car if you are looking to run stock focus on dropping weight on the drivetrain. You will have much better results overall. My car weighs in at 1578 and its plenty fast in the stock class.
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:45 AM   #7907
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Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
Avid rear axles,
Hey I was looking at these and considering grabbing a set. I have all Kyosho rims though and I saw you have to open them up some. Do you know how much you have to open it? I don't want to sit there and hack up 10 pairs of rims.
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:48 AM   #7908
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Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
A lighter car is an edgy car if you are looking to run stock focus on dropping weight on the drivetrain. You will have much better results overall. My car weighs in at 1578 and its plenty fast in the stock class.
That's pretty much right where I will end up.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:08 AM   #7909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Hey I was looking at these and considering grabbing a set. I have all Kyosho rims though and I saw you have to open them up some. Do you know how much you have to open it? I don't want to sit there and hack up 10 pairs of rims.
Sorry, I only use AKA rims, those fit with zero modification.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:19 AM   #7910
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Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
Sorry, I only use AKA rims, those fit with zero modification.
ok thanks,
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:32 AM   #7911
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Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
A lighter car is an edgy car if you are looking to run stock focus on dropping weight on the drivetrain. You will have much better results overall. My car weighs in at 1578 and its plenty fast in the stock class.
Can you list what you can do to lighten the drivetrain?
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:59 AM   #7912
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Hey I was looking at these and considering grabbing a set. I have all Kyosho rims though and I saw you have to open them up some. Do you know how much you have to open it? I don't want to sit there and hack up 10 pairs of rims.
Using a good reamer, it only needs (approximately) 0.5mm taken out of both sides to get the Kyosho wheels to fit snugly onto the axles.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:00 AM   #7913
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Default Setup q.

Brandon,
I am running your setup except for 27.5wt in the rear and the 25* block position rather than the 30*. Same old tires and inserts as everyone. The track was good it was after the Sunday mains I even swept it a few times.

Yesterday the car felt good but seemed to push on power sometimes, other times low speed and off power it hooked and had crazy amounts of steering. Twitchy and punishing me. Half way through the sweeper it would sometimes just hook up and dart. Other times it pushed wide.

Could this behavior be from running with the 25* rather than the 30* ?
I am searching around but hard to find the answer. I know you have tested with this.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:03 AM   #7914
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I ran a full size stick pack (85g heavier than the turnigy shorty), so my total weight would have been around 1605g and the handling I thought turned to crap (not that I'm much good anyways).

Going into corners just felt a bit slower and seemed to want to push/slide a lot more.
I didn't change anything besides the battery which could explain part of it but, I really didn't like it.

It seems the Turnigy's and Venoms are the lightest shorty lipos available aswell (about 189g).

Revolectrix's and a couple of other brands are around 205g but seems most are about the 215g area.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:07 AM   #7915
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Originally Posted by Cspurlock View Post
Can you list what you can do to lighten the drivetrain?
There isnt a ton you can do....
Avid top shaft
Avid slipper
Freer bearings in the tranny and make sure everything spins free. If you know someone who can machine for you or if you are skilled with a dremel you can lighten the outdrives etc...
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:10 AM   #7916
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
Brandon,
I am running your setup except for 27.5wt in the rear and the 25* block position rather than the 30*. Same old tires and inserts as everyone. The track was good it was after the Sunday mains I even swept it a few times.

Yesterday the car felt good but seemed to push on power sometimes, other times low speed and off power it hooked and had crazy amounts of steering. Twitchy and punishing me. Half way through the sweeper it would sometimes just hook up and dart. Other times it pushed wide.

Could this behavior be from running with the 25* rather than the 30* ?
I am searching around but hard to find the answer. I know you have tested with this.
You can try moving your battery all the way forward.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:56 AM   #7917
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where you mount the camber link upfront changes camber gain correct? which way is more camber the outside hole?
anyone?
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:58 AM   #7918
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I am using his set up at the moment and it pushed a bit, I stood up the front shocks on the tower, and went to s more aggressive front tire and felt pretty good, and that's with the 30 degree block. Was running clay handlebars, changed to suburb front.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:29 AM   #7919
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Originally Posted by desertracerdad View Post
Using a good reamer, it only needs (approximately) 0.5mm taken out of both sides to get the Kyosho wheels to fit snugly onto the axles.
Thanks. I think I'll grab a set of them for the indoor season. I was going to order AKA tires anyway, guess I'll just get premounts and save myself the headache of gluing them. I'll save my existing rims.

Anyone know if I'll have to ream out JC or Proline rims if I needed to use them?
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:32 AM   #7920
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Originally Posted by silveraider14 View Post
anyone?
I think it's the shorter the link, the more camber gain.
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