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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-09-2013, 08:32 AM   #7831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
What's the benefit? I thought it was mainly to use rims with a deeper hex.
like everything, I have heard mixed stories.

I got them initially so I could still use my old AE rims / tires but I run the Kyosho rims now.
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:36 AM   #7832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
Cool, thanks for the reply.
Everything is nice and free, little slop but not too bad overall.
Got my setup attached.

I havn't really copied anything, just been trying to figure it out myself.
I don't have time at the moment to really dive in, but right off the bat there are some big issues. The first thing I see, is that you cannot run 32 degrees of caster, and 0mm in bump steer washers. Car will drive like butt. There are also other scattered issues in your setup.

Losi springs are less than desirable, you might be a little light in rear oil, on a low traction track I probably wouldn't be running that much caster, id probably be running no sidepod screws at all, and I probably wouldn't be running any ackerman spacers. That's just to start. Hard to say without physically handling the car.
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:06 AM   #7833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Why are you running losi springs? the Kyo springs are awesome.
$25 a set vs $22 a pair.
Using the low frequency ones.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I don't have time at the moment to really dive in, but right off the bat there are some big issues. The first thing I see, is that you cannot run 32 degrees of caster, and 0mm in bump steer washers. Car will drive like butt. There are also other scattered issues in your setup.

Losi springs are less than desirable, you might be a little light in rear oil, on a low traction track I probably wouldn't be running that much caster, id probably be running no sidepod screws at all, and I probably wouldn't be running any ackerman spacers. That's just to start. Hard to say without physically handling the car.
Thanks for taking the time you have anyway.

I'll try adding the bump steer washers.

I am going to change the rear shock oil to 30wt (don't have any 27.5 at the moment), and I think I can get away with the front being a bit heavier too.

I tried it with the front pivot block at 25 degrees and found it was worse, I'll give it another go though.

I found with no sidepod screws it seemed to make the steering twitchy.
I put in the front screws found it made it a bit better then put in the next 2 but didn't really notice any difference.

The ackermann spacers I did just to experiment and I found it helped a bit with exit steering, I'll take them out again, see if the other changes I've done since will make it better.

I realise it's hard without seeing it in person and on this track but thanks again.
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:30 AM   #7834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
$25 a set vs $22 a pair.
Using the low frequency ones.




Thanks for taking the time you have anyway.

I'll try adding the bump steer washers.

I am going to change the rear shock oil to 30wt (don't have any 27.5 at the moment), and I think I can get away with the front being a bit heavier too.

I tried it with the front pivot block at 25 degrees and found it was worse, I'll give it another go though.

I found with no sidepod screws it seemed to make the steering twitchy.
I put in the front screws found it made it a bit better then put in the next 2 but didn't really notice any difference.

The ackermann spacers I did just to experiment and I found it helped a bit with exit steering, I'll take them out again, see if the other changes I've done since will make it better.

I realise it's hard without seeing it in person and on this track but thanks again.
my suggestion is now that you have 'your setup' documented and you know how it feels, go and put on either Jared's CRCRC setup or the Japanese setup and compare. Not saying they are better or worse, but you will feel the differences between yours and the other and you can decide for yourself. I personally am running Jared's CRCRC setup and just adjusting for track conditions.
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:41 AM   #7835
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I run the CRCRC Jared setup with a few shock changes for my driving style. It works great indoors and outdoors.
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:12 PM   #7836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
$25 a set vs $22 a pair.
Using the low frequency ones.
I feel like its one of the times where it is worth the $. First off, you won't need fronts, the pink works everywhere, even on Cav's B4 For rear, Gold would be the best compromise if you wanted a single pair, the stock reds can be stiff, the only other option I have, or have used is the white rear.
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:05 PM   #7837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I feel like its one of the times where it is worth the $. First off, you won't need fronts, the pink works everywhere, even on Cav's B4 For rear, Gold would be the best compromise if you wanted a single pair, the stock reds can be stiff, the only other option I have, or have used is the white rear.
Pretty much spot on. ANYONE who buys and runs a Kyosho and then talks about how much money part(s) cost is just You pay for quality.
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:14 PM   #7838
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Maybe parts are expensive... But they don't break or wear out haha!
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:57 AM   #7839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
my suggestion is now that you have 'your setup' documented and you know how it feels, go and put on either Jared's CRCRC setup or the Japanese setup and compare. Not saying they are better or worse, but you will feel the differences between yours and the other and you can decide for yourself. I personally am running Jared's CRCRC setup and just adjusting for track conditions.
Will do, thanks, I'm keen on trying someone else setup to compare to my own, even if I dont like it I may find things to use on what I currently use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I feel like its one of the times where it is worth the $. First off, you won't need fronts, the pink works everywhere, even on Cav's B4 For rear, Gold would be the best compromise if you wanted a single pair, the stock reds can be stiff, the only other option I have, or have used is the white rear.
I accept the costs of a Kyosho but I couldnt justify the cost of a set of kyosho springs, but if I only need to buy 2 or 3 pairs then I can justify that, I'll see how I go with the Losi springs.
As I said before, I'm not that great behind the wheel, and I absolutely suck in low grip.
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:36 AM   #7840
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RB6 definitely reliable so far.

I did break a shock end on a very small landing on all 4 wheels though.
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Old 08-10-2013, 04:56 PM   #7841
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Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
Will do, thanks, I'm keen on trying someone else setup to compare to my own, even if I dont like it I may find things to use on what I currently use.



I accept the costs of a Kyosho but I couldnt justify the cost of a set of kyosho springs, but if I only need to buy 2 or 3 pairs then I can justify that, I'll see how I go with the Losi springs.
As I said before, I'm not that great behind the wheel, and I absolutely suck in low grip.
One thing not mentioned so far is your slipper setting, have a bit of slip can help a lot when landing on power.
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:43 PM   #7842
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One thing not mentioned so far is your slipper setting, have a bit of slip can help a lot when landing on power.
I have the Avid slipper (forgot to put that in the setup sheet), with the white pads and it is usually loose-ish.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:31 PM   #7843
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I know this has been asked before but the RB6 has the same gear ratio as a b4 right? if so 81/22 should be good for a 7.5T
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:50 PM   #7844
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He's...the same
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:15 PM   #7845
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Had a blast with my RB6 rear motor today at OCRC! Tons of fun!!! Bro even had his aluminum chassied tamiya dialed!
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