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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-07-2013, 10:51 AM   #7816
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hey do any of you run AKA tires inside? I am considering switching to them and wanted to get an idea of how the compounds are. I will be attending a race at RCE in October and typically that track is a JConcepts Blue Barcode track. What compound Handlebars would you run?

I'm just curious about the cross over of compounds....
Does it work out so that:
JC Gold = AKA Clay
JC Blue = AKA Soft
JC Green = AKA Super Soft

This seems logical, but the minute I don't ask, I'll order a bunch of tires that I don't need. Also do you guys have a preference over STD / LTD? I know the idea is to break them in, but sometimes I found with the JC tires the tall tire naturally worn in was better than the bro-code.

Thanks ahead of time.
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:04 AM   #7817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
hey do any of you run AKA tires inside? I am considering switching to them and wanted to get an idea of how the compounds are. I will be attending a race at RCE in October and typically that track is a JConcepts Blue Barcode track. What compound Handlebars would you run?

I'm just curious about the cross over of compounds....
Does it work out so that:
JC Gold = AKA Clay
JC Blue = AKA Soft
JC Green = AKA Super Soft

This seems logical, but the minute I don't ask, I'll order a bunch of tires that I don't need. Also do you guys have a preference over STD / LTD? I know the idea is to break them in, but sometimes I found with the JC tires the tall tire naturally worn in was better than the bro-code.

Thanks ahead of time.
That's how I would rank them. We have no local tracks that JC Blue works at so I can't say for sure and I have tried AKA Softs a few times and can't get those to work either. Our tracks in this area typically like a very soft compound in the summer and then a clay compound in the winter. You might want to post your questions in the AKA thread to get a few more opinions.

Additionally the AKA Super Soft compound has a wide working range. On tracks that typically like a clay compound on other brands the AKA SS is faster and more consistent, at least on tracks around here. If there is a fair amount of dust on the track get the standard height version if there is very little dust then the LTD version. You will need to watch the lap-times to determine your height of tread. I've had LTD's feel worse but the lap-times say they are supreme. STD tires just locked the car in too much, while easy to drive, it was slower.
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:49 AM   #7818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
hey do any of you run AKA tires inside? I am considering switching to them and wanted to get an idea of how the compounds are. I will be attending a race at RCE in October and typically that track is a JConcepts Blue Barcode track. What compound Handlebars would you run?

I'm just curious about the cross over of compounds....
Does it work out so that:
JC Gold = AKA Clay
JC Blue = AKA Soft
JC Green = AKA Super Soft

This seems logical, but the minute I don't ask, I'll order a bunch of tires that I don't need. Also do you guys have a preference over STD / LTD? I know the idea is to break them in, but sometimes I found with the JC tires the tall tire naturally worn in was better than the bro-code.

Thanks ahead of time.
I have only run SS ltd handlebars, they locked in the rear of my car even over slick M4's . One thing to note on these is that the tires is noticeably taller than other brands.
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:54 AM   #7819
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I have only run SS ltd handlebars, they locked in the rear of my car even over slick M4's . One thing to note on these is that the tires is noticeably taller than other brands.
you race at Area 51... nothing there works anywhere else

:P
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:05 PM   #7820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
you race at Area 51... nothing there works anywhere else

:P
Not true, It seems like a lot of tracks on the other coast also run slicks. I did run them right after a layout change so the track wasn't settled yet. I ran them a few weeks later and they still worked, but were a few .ths slower.
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:41 PM   #7821
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Not true, It seems like a lot of tracks on the other coast also run slicks. I did run them right after a layout change so the track wasn't settled yet. I ran them a few weeks later and they still worked, but were a few .ths slower.
seriously? I don't know of another track in the country (I'm sure there are some though obviously LOL) that runs slicks. Slicks is the reason that most of us guys who were going to come to IRH decided not too.

Anyway that's neither near nor there. I did ask in the AKA thread. Thanks cause I didn't even know there was one haha.


DERP-- I read that as a lot of tracks on the EAST coast :P
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Last edited by Bob Barry; 08-07-2013 at 12:46 PM. Reason: move along, nothing to see here
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:59 PM   #7822
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
seriously? I don't know of another track in the country (I'm sure there are some though obviously LOL) that runs slicks. Slicks is the reason that most of us guys who were going to come to IRH decided not too.

Anyway that's neither near nor there. I did ask in the AKA thread. Thanks cause I didn't even know there was one haha.


DERP-- I read that as a lot of tracks on the EAST coast :P
The discussion is always on the table to try and make the track more like "other" tracks, but for now, its an awesome track, and if all you have to do is sand down a set of M4s and know that your car will be good, I don't see what the big deal is. I bought 3 SETS of tires to "hope" my car will be good at vineland for the Eastern State challenge.

There are also people running worn out treads successfully, there is also a BANDIT in 17.5 that has TQ'd a few nights
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:41 AM   #7823
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I finally got my Tekin Gen2 ESC and Motor and had a look at the rear motor set up pics from the link on first page on which way people put the poles of the ESC.

I am going to run a normal size battery pack to start with can anyone see an issue with mounting the ESC with the poles to the rear of the car with wire soldered on the poles at 90 degrees and looping around to the back?

I figure this way I can access the hotwire plug easy.
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:00 AM   #7824
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Couple more questions...

Going into a corner there is a fair amount of steering, then it just dies but just on exit most of it comes back.
It's not so much that theres no steering, it seems like the rear doesn't want to turn.
If I give it some power or step on the breaks it'll flick around a bit.

Another is when coming out of a corner and getting on the power, the rear likes to dance about a fair bit.

I am running narrow hangers, could wide hangers fix this?
I'll likely test tomorrow but just asking anyway.
I was running wide hangers but changed to narrow as I was having quite a few issues with grip, which I think I have sorted out by changing other things.

Also, I find when landing jumps, sometimes it likes to swap ends.
Could this be shock related or could the wide hangers or maybe a longer wheelbase help?
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:41 AM   #7825
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swapping ends when landing jumps? Sounds like an issue with the car. Something is setup glaringly wrong, or you have something binding. We would need to see an accurate setup sheet on your exact setup. Maybe a vid of the car going around the track.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:39 AM   #7826
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Cool, thanks for the reply.
Everything is nice and free, little slop but not too bad overall.
Got my setup attached.

I havn't really copied anything, just been trying to figure it out myself.
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-setup.jpg  
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:02 PM   #7827
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Couple more questions...

Going into a corner there is a fair amount of steering, then it just dies but just on exit most of it comes back.
It's not so much that theres no steering, it seems like the rear doesn't want to turn.
If I give it some power or step on the breaks it'll flick around a bit.
Try RB5 front hub carriers, use the outer hole, UM505B.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:31 AM   #7828
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Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
Cool, thanks for the reply.
Everything is nice and free, little slop but not too bad overall.
Got my setup attached.

I havn't really copied anything, just been trying to figure it out myself.
Why are you running losi springs? the Kyo springs are awesome.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:39 AM   #7829
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so to install the RB5 axles and hexs or not to install them...... that tis the question. I have them sitting in the box....
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:18 AM   #7830
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so to install the RB5 axles and hexs or not to install them...... that tis the question. I have them sitting in the box....
What's the benefit? I thought it was mainly to use rims with a deeper hex.
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