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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-31-2013, 07:39 PM   #7771
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Maybe just me but I switched from gull wings to 521-1 arms on a low traction surface and was faster. Medium shock ends fully screwed in equates to around the same droop as gull wing Japan setup (eyeballed).
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:55 PM   #7772
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Anyone else run the Jconcepts body?
I've had mine for a few weeks now (some practice and a race day) and it's already stuffed.
Cracked across the front and a bit in the back.
Another race day or 2 and it'll be in 2 pieces and torn up.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:29 PM   #7773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
From my experience and it goes with what Tebo said, the flat arms will keep the car more flat while the gullwings had the car still leaning over when I was ready to power out of the corner. So for a loose track the gullwing is probably better since it'll give more traction. While on a higher bite track the flat arms will have the car square up faster out of corners.
Last night I took my RM RB6 to a really fast flowing astroturf near Athens and I tried many setup changes just to see how my base setup will react. Among other things I tries the 521 arms and I must say that the feeling is like you describe...they help the car square up better coming out of the corners without loosing speed in high speed corners. It fet like using sway bar at the back in a way...

Of course I tries to keep everything else equal to understand the change...put the medium ball ends, went to the same droop at the back as the stock arms and play around with the wheelbase to get the same overall feeling in that particular track. To me for this high grip surface at that particuar day this setup made the car easier to drive.

Also tried the RB5 front axles with 25 degrees caster and wide front end and the car was steering as aggresive as my previeus setup with 29 degrees caster and narrow front end. Now the steering was more linear throught the turn and I had time to make adjustments to my input...same steering "slower" reaction in input
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:41 PM   #7774
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I was told earlier, than the 521-1s added droop relative to the hub. I ran them just because, but lately have had a pro tell me the 521-1 lack the grip the stock arms provide. Ive started running the stock ones on my MM car with C-in to get the rear end to grip more. So far its been pretty good, and I think the stock arms should be the base for sets vs the 521-1s because I think can work better universally.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:43 PM   #7775
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I have tried both arms on my RB6. I really like the flat 1 hole arms best. However I'm running on carpet this summer and just bought the rear sway bar kit. Despite my best efforts I could not get the sway bar kit to mount up to the flat arms so I switched to the stock gulwing arms. The sway bar is a pretty neat option to use on really high bite with mid motor.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:25 PM   #7776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sterlzy View Post
Hey K_King What weight diff oil do you run in your gear diff? Our track is medium traction, bumpy, with a slight layer of dust on top, Dry.
I dont run a gear diff
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:55 PM   #7777
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Guys don't get me wrong...

I am not saying the flat arms work better than the stock ones...I am just suggesting that if you run on high grip surface with traction taken out of the setup equation flat arms are like running sway bars in RM configuration

My next test will be to run MM in that astroturf track!
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:56 AM   #7778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
Anyone else run the Jconcepts body?
I've had mine for a few weeks now (some practice and a race day) and it's already stuffed.
Cracked across the front and a bit in the back.
Another race day or 2 and it'll be in 2 pieces and torn up.
I ran the bulldog but no more. Both sides at the back ripped along the edges. Less than 10 practice sessions. The Blade body under same abuse holding up fine.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:13 AM   #7779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
Anyone else run the Jconcepts body?
I've had mine for a few weeks now (some practice and a race day) and it's already stuffed.
Cracked across the front and a bit in the back.
Another race day or 2 and it'll be in 2 pieces and torn up.
I've been running the Finnisher since I had the car for the past 3-4 mo. No issues. However I only use the front clip and then Velcro on the sides near the rear.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:42 AM   #7780
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/newreply...ply&p=12404015

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
I've been running the Finnisher since I had the car for the past 3-4 mo. No issues. However I only use the front clip and then Velcro on the sides near the rear.
Hmm, I spose it could have been how I cut it (right on the line), might need more material left or move the corner up along further.
I have mine on with velcro only.

Also, anyone else run the Avid slipper?
I'm finding after the first couple of laps it kinda loosens up a bit and needs tightening.
Might just need a new nut though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
I ran the bulldog but no more. Both sides at the back ripped along the edges. Less than 10 practice sessions. The Blade body under same abuse holding up fine.
Hmm, I really didnt like the look of the bulldog, but kinda interesting that it has a similar issue aswell.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:57 AM   #7781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
http://www.rctech.net/forum/newreply...ply&p=12404015

Also, anyone else run the Avid slipper?
I'm finding after the first couple of laps it kinda loosens up a bit and needs tightening.
Might just need a new nut though.
I've ran the Avid slipper since it's release and that's the only fault I've found with the slipper. Each time I've fixed it by just replacing the 3m locknut with a new one and it stays put for few months.
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:00 AM   #7782
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Yea them nuts suck!
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:11 AM   #7783
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I use Durango lock nuts. Holding up so far.


The PL Bulldog body is holding up so far for me. As long as the nose of the body isn't too tight of a fit between the front shock tower you shouldn't develop cracks.
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:58 AM   #7784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroargi View Post
traction taken out of the setup equation flat arms are like running sway bars in RM configuration
No, it's not. Changing to the RB5 arms is nothing like running an anti-roll bar.
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 08-01-2013 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:35 AM   #7785
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Some mid motor RB6 action from our local track, they look super fun!
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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