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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-30-2013, 05:03 PM   #7741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
I can see from pics on petiterc.com that Hara is running at least 14g in front of the motor. ..
I forget that when a pro does something we all have to follow...plz forgive me.
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:04 PM   #7742
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Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
I have been struggling with my car. I run on a tight indoor clay track, that is medium to low traction. When I first built the car the track had good traction, and I was using Capt. Americas set up. The car was great! But now the car is loose at both ends. The B4's have more rear traction, and can turn inside me on every corner. Im running clay compound Suburbs, or Clay Barcodes. But nothing seems to hook up. Ive also used every traction compound I can find. Every one at the track used the subarbs, with buggy grip.

Anyone have a good set up I can try that has lots of grip at both ends I can try
What did you change? The car doesn't go from great to crap overnight there has to be more to the story.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:11 PM   #7743
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I havnt changed a thing. I have tried different things but always went back to the same set up. What changed was the track. The clay seems to have less traction every time they rebuild the track. Over the winter it had good traction, but now it's slick.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:20 PM   #7744
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Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
I havnt changed a thing. I have tried different things but always went back to the same set up. What changed was the track. The clay seems to have less traction every time they rebuild the track. Over the winter it had good traction, but now it's slick.
Have you tried M4 instead of clay compound? it should have more grip.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:40 PM   #7745
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A softer tire definitely would help,I have no luck with clay compounds.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:52 PM   #7746
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Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
I havnt changed a thing. I have tried different things but always went back to the same set up. What changed was the track. The clay seems to have less traction every time they rebuild the track. Over the winter it had good traction, but now it's slick.
I noticed the same thing about my track, the heat takes the moisture out and makes the track worse. Going to softer tires helped me out.

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Old 07-30-2013, 06:53 PM   #7747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
I have been struggling with my car. I run on a tight indoor clay track, that is medium to low traction. When I first built the car the track had good traction, and I was using Capt. Americas set up. The car was great! But now the car is loose at both ends. The B4's have more rear traction, and can turn inside me on every corner. Im running clay compound Suburbs, or Clay Barcodes. But nothing seems to hook up. Ive also used every traction compound I can find. Every one at the track used the subarbs, with buggy grip.

Anyone have a good set up I can try that has lots of grip at both ends I can try
When is the last time you replaced the shock seals? If you haven't in a few weeks do that and the car will come back if nothing else is wrong.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:53 PM   #7748
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.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:57 PM   #7749
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Originally Posted by bigdaddy13 View Post
A softer tire definitely would help,I have no luck with clay compounds.
+1 if a softer tire gets some better results then its time to soften the car a bit. On a slick track I goto 4/55 with 32.5/30 AE brown front and black rear springs. It's just a generic shock setup I use that has lots of grip and I go from there. Hope it helps and before you come back and post it's lazy that's exactly what I shoot for when there is minimal traction.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:16 PM   #7750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdnspecial View Post
Thanks for posting, that was a crazy last lap, I was the blue/white rb6 in 3rd and I inherited 2nd from that crash, I had to check up slightly to avoid hitting Mitchell or the marshall, and the guy behind was carrying way more speed into the next turn so he peeled me just after I brushed the pipe causing me to drop to 5th.


edit:
I found the rest of the full SS buggy videos
Round 5, Race 4 :: Super Stock Buggy (13.5 No Timing) (A1 Main)
Round 5, Race 27 :: Super Stock Buggy (13.5 No Timing) (A2 Main)
Round 5, Race 49 :: Super Stock Buggy (13.5 No Timing) (A3 Main)
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Last edited by Jason.Dias; 07-30-2013 at 09:16 PM. Reason: added videos
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:22 PM   #7751
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Hey K_King What weight diff oil do you run in your gear diff? Our track is medium traction, bumpy, with a slight layer of dust on top, Dry.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:29 PM   #7752
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Just getting back into racing after MANY years off. Last raced with a Losi JRX2, original version. I am very excited to get back into racing, and I have an RB6 on order. I plan to run both dirt and carpet offroad tracks.

I've read through this thread as thoroughly as possible, and learned quite a bit. Please bear with me for a few questions I still have.

I plan to start with the Rear motor, standard Japan setup. When I move to the carpet offroad, it seems that I should increase the shock oil weights. Should I also increase the spring firmness? If so, approx. how much?

If/when I change over to a mid motor set-up, do I need to use the new adjustable rear Kyosho hangers to get the narrow rear? Does Exotek make a set of rear hangers that would be plug and play for a MM narrow rear set-up?

Thanks in advance for any help!!

BTW, props to Jason Dias for posting these videos!! Amazing!!

Kevin
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:35 PM   #7753
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Originally Posted by kes7u View Post
Just getting back into racing after MANY years off. Last raced with a Losi JRX2, original version. I am very excited to get back into racing, and I have an RB6 on order. I plan to run both dirt and carpet offroad tracks.

I've read through this thread as thoroughly as possible, and learned quite a bit. Please bear with me for a few questions I still have.

I plan to start with the Rear motor, standard Japan setup. When I move to the carpet offroad, it seems that I should increase the shock oil weights. Should I also increase the spring firmness? If so, approx. how much?

If/when I change over to a mid motor set-up, do I need to use the new adjustable rear Kyosho hangers to get the narrow rear? Does Exotek make a set of rear hangers that would be plug and play for a MM narrow rear set-up?

Thanks in advance for any help!!

BTW, props to Jason Dias for posting these videos!! Amazing!!

Kevin
Regarding the MM hangers, it's your choice, the kyosho hangers give you more options to go wide or narrow, and change toe. The Exotek hangers are set to one position. So if you want the same width options with Exotek you need to buy both the wide and narrow versions.

You're welcome, I found almost all the mains for HRH Shootout if anyone is looking to watch a specific race PM me.
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Last edited by Jason.Dias; 01-31-2014 at 03:02 AM.
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:28 AM   #7754
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No point in buying the Exotek ones now, not unless you're after a more set and forget thing.

The Kyosho hangers are cheaper (only need 3 to have the whole range of adjustment instead of 6) and offer more adjustment options.
Just ordered the RF and RR for rear motor myself.


I have a similar issue with lack of traction on a damp clay track that brings sand through to the top, everyone has the same issue but I just push in the corners heaps and the rear steps out quite easily, on 17.5 blinky.
Using holeshots M3 front and rear, narrow rear hangers, short wheelbase, 30deg kickup +4 caster, stock springs (have losi low freq springs on the way) and 22.5 rear and 25 front with ghia 4 hole, +.5 toe.
Shorty pack towards the front (move it rearwards and very little steering), a full size pack makes the rear swing around much easier.


Track starts to get better when we get into the warmer months though.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:40 AM   #7755
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Default rear arms

are the stock rb6 arms preferred for low traction over the
flat rb5 arms ???

thanks
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