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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-30-2013, 11:06 AM   #7726
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I can see from pics on petiterc.com that Hara is running at least 14g in front of the motor. ..
that was also with a shorty.. guys that are running saddles, its probably not necessary.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:19 AM   #7727
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that was also with a shorty.. guys that are running saddles, its probably not necessary.
I think I am going to try the shorty sideways. Right now the car is in rear motor configuration with shorty pack and I am not getting the performance out of the car that I want so I am going to try something different.
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:14 PM   #7728
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Work on that setup before you switch, the car is the best or there. Switching mid or rear with a crappy setup won't change anything.
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:42 PM   #7729
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Work on that setup before you switch, the car is the best or there. Switching mid or rear with a crappy setup won't change anything.
+1 this car is the best of the best.
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:23 PM   #7730
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+1 this car is the best of the best.
Well the first thing I am trying is the new hangers and a rear spring change.
Running pink/f and gold/r springs

Right now the car pushes and does not take small jumps well, it nose dives hard. Over large jumps it is fine

Not sure what to do about that so I was going to change the balance of the car. I am running shorty pack as far to the rear as I can get it with the stock battery holder.
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:26 PM   #7731
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Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
Well the first thing I am trying is the new hangers and a rear spring change.
Running pink/f and gold/r springs

Right now the car pushes and does not take small jumps well, it nose dives hard. Over large jumps it is fine

Not sure what to do about that so I was going to change the balance of the car. I am running shorty pack as far to the rear as I can get it with the stock battery holder.
You have something else going on. If the car is noticeably pushing, you most likely have a tire problem. The first thing you need to do, is restore the natural balance of the car. Running gold springs AND running the shorty all the way to the back, will shift all your traction to the rear of the car. Move that shorty to the middle, and put your red springs back on, and the buggy will transform.
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:29 PM   #7732
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You have something else going on. If the car is noticeably pushing, you most likely have a tire problem.
I thought maybe I was just getting to much rear traction...
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:35 PM   #7733
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I thought maybe I was just getting to much rear traction...
yep. that is coming from your setup (or you have a tire issue). But what you don't want to do, is set your car up for maximum rear traction, and then complain that your car is pushy, and move to a MM setup to try and correct. Make sense?
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:38 PM   #7734
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
yep. that is coming from your setup (or you have a tire issue). But what you don't want to do, is set your car up for maximum rear traction, and then complain that your car is pushy, and move to a MM setup to try and correct. Make sense?
I am going to try the new hangers and spring change first then.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:21 PM   #7735
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Are most of you running saddles with midmotor? Im running my rb6 MM in 17.5 blinky so I have been hesitant to give it a shot due to to the additional weight compared to a short.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:39 PM   #7736
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Are most of you running saddles with midmotor? Im running my rb6 MM in 17.5 blinky so I have been hesitant to give it a shot due to to the additional weight compared to a short.
You will have to add some weight with a shorty in MM no matter what, 45 to 100g, especially MM.
I run 13.5 and a lighter car is more responsive but can be twitchy. The added weight really help to add a bit or rear lock and finished a setup perfectly.

One thing I noticed after working on RM and MM setups (mostly MM) is how different the front end setup is between the two (25/30 caster, shim/no shim, shock position on wishbone outside/inside), going back and forth require a complete setup change overall, something to keep in mind while going from one to the other.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:09 PM   #7737
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I am going to try the new hangers and spring change first then.
And battery position.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:11 PM   #7738
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Originally Posted by Life_livin View Post
Are most of you running saddles with midmotor? Im running my rb6 MM in 17.5 blinky so I have been hesitant to give it a shot due to to the additional weight compared to a short.
there will be a weight difference, roughly 60g on avg. however 17.5's now have so much power and MM carries so much more corner speed, i doubt you feel a drop in lap times

at 32/69 my car could lift the front wheels off the ground when the track was prepped at 80% throttle so your car has power to spare.. you wont be losing any races b/c your running saddles.. until recently it wasn't even an option.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:44 PM   #7739
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[QUOTE=t8rtot;12397936]Work on that setup before you switch, the car is the best or there. Switching mid or rear with a crappy setup won't change anything.[/QUOTE

+1
Unless your running on carpet mm is not gonna make you any faster that is for sure...
I only went to midmotor because I was bored and wanted to tune something
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:48 PM   #7740
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I have been struggling with my car. I run on a tight indoor clay track, that is medium to low traction. When I first built the car the track had good traction, and I was using Capt. Americas set up. The car was great! But now the car is loose at both ends. The B4's have more rear traction, and can turn inside me on every corner. Im running clay compound Suburbs, or Clay Barcodes. But nothing seems to hook up. Ive also used every traction compound I can find. Every one at the track used the subarbs, with buggy grip.

Anyone have a good set up I can try that has lots of grip at both ends I can try
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