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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-15-2013, 10:31 AM   #7591
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+1more for the ghea pistons.
I have never had a car/ piston combo with a more perfect fit and finish.
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:50 PM   #7592
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I am in need of some new outdrives for my diff. Has anyone tried the MIP outdrives? If so, are they any better or the exact same thing as the RB6?
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:55 PM   #7593
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Ghea 4 hole... only way to fly
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:09 PM   #7594
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I am in need of some new outdrives for my diff. Has anyone tried the MIP outdrives? If so, are they any better or the exact same thing as the RB6?
They are more durable for sure. I still cannot see any wear on mine. I have the whole MIP rear end, hexes, axles, cvd and diff. Just a slight discoloration on the inside of the outdrives after around 3 months I thinks
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:02 PM   #7595
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Default mid motor help

I've been running my car mid motor the last week and I've got it to be somewhat to my liking but I have a problem with a switch back after a small double. It seems like the car is just lazy and I lose a lot of speed and time in that specific section. I'm running saddles, with speedo in front, no screws on the chassis and avid 4 hole 1.3 with 30f 27.5r associated oils. looking for some ideas to get the car to react faster

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Old 07-15-2013, 04:06 PM   #7596
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I am in need of some new outdrives for my diff. Has anyone tried the MIP outdrives? If so, are they any better or the exact same thing as the RB6?
You can't run just the outdrives, you will need to run the entire diff, unfortunately. Then once you start to wear the pins down on your CVds, you can switch to the MIP CVD kit as well. Apparently they are much more durable.

But look closely, and you will see that the MIP outdrives by themselves, are 2x the cost of the kyosho outdrives. So will you actually save money buy buying ane entire new diff, and outdrives at double the price? Even if the outdrives last twice as long, you wont save a penny.... you will only be down the cost of the entire new mip diff.

Now, if they last 3 times longer or more, then maybe over a year or two timeline, you can start to save some cash. I don't know how much more durable they are (if at all), first hand.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:08 PM   #7597
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Originally Posted by ColbyRichards View Post
I've been running my car mid motor the last week and I've got it to be somewhat to my liking but I have a problem with a switch back after a small double. It seems like the car is just lazy and I lose a lot of speed and time in that specific section. I'm running saddles, with speedo in front, no screws on the chassis and avid 4 hole 1.3 with 30f 27.5r associated oils. looking for some ideas to get the car to react faster

What kind of surface do you run on?
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:20 PM   #7598
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Originally Posted by ColbyRichards View Post
I've been running my car mid motor the last week and I've got it to be somewhat to my liking but I have a problem with a switch back after a small double. It seems like the car is just lazy and I lose a lot of speed and time in that specific section. I'm running saddles, with speedo in front, no screws on the chassis and avid 4 hole 1.3 with 30f 27.5r associated oils. looking for some ideas to get the car to react faster

Just put the flex screws back up. Lazy is exactly what we feel the lack of it does.
Or maybe try to remove only the center ones.
We ran with all off them either rear or mid and try to make up for traction elsewhere if needed.


About MIP you could use the cvd only and keep the K diff, far better IMHO even if outdrives look more sturdy. Just have a spare K outdrives and change them if needed.
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:22 AM   #7599
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just my two cents ! mip is by far, very good! I have 120 hours on my k car,with mip products, with very little wear on drives and axles, it got to a point when I call out when I would snap a kyosho axle! now with MIP no worries! and the pin will never fall out and destroy my hubs!
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:55 AM   #7600
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
You can't run just the outdrives, you will need to run the entire diff, unfortunately. Then once you start to wear the pins down on your CVds, you can switch to the MIP CVD kit as well. Apparently they are much more durable.

But look closely, and you will see that the MIP outdrives by themselves, are 2x the cost of the kyosho outdrives. So will you actually save money buy buying ane entire new diff, and outdrives at double the price? Even if the outdrives last twice as long, you wont save a penny.... you will only be down the cost of the entire new mip diff.

Now, if they last 3 times longer or more, then maybe over a year or two timeline, you can start to save some cash. I don't know how much more durable they are (if at all), first hand.
Good point. I always try to look at things like are the pros using these? I have been running my car hard for 9 months. Do the bones needs to replaced ever?
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:05 AM   #7601
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Originally Posted by SAMCRO View Post
Good point. I always try to look at things like are the pros using these? I have been running my car hard for 9 months. Do the bones needs to replaced ever?
I actually somewhat disagree. Just because the pros use something, doesn't necessarily mean they're the best or most durable. Depending on their level of sponsorship, they may be forced to use certain parts. They also either get free parts or drastically reduced in price parts. If ones always has access to, and runs fresh CVD's, then longevity isn't as much of a concern as it is to the rest of us which may run the same buggy every week and only swap parts when they break.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:07 AM   #7602
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Originally Posted by mojo tom View Post
Just put the flex screws back up. Lazy is exactly what we feel the lack of it does.
Or maybe try to remove only the center ones.
We ran with all off them either rear or mid and try to make up for traction elsewhere if needed.


About MIP you could use the cvd only and keep the K diff, far better IMHO even if outdrives look more sturdy. Just have a spare K outdrives and change them if needed.
I'll try some scews in.

You know where mandozer at nw. Traction is good and I'm not slipping and sliding every where

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Old 07-16-2013, 10:22 AM   #7603
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Good point. I always try to look at things like are the pros using these? I have been running my car hard for 9 months. Do the bones needs to replaced ever?
Pro Kyosho drivers would be prohibited from using the MIP diff, outdrives, and CVD kits. They have to use Kyosho.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:56 PM   #7604
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Just wondering if I need to use a short servo if I'm running rear mount with a straight battery? or will a standard servo have plenty of room?
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:04 PM   #7605
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Pro Kyosho drivers would be prohibited from using the MIP diff, outdrives, and CVD kits. They have to use Kyosho.
Unless that "Pro" just so happens to be also sponsored by MIP as well
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