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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-14-2013, 06:23 PM   #7576
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Or you can just flip the spacers already on the car from when you built the kit. Lol
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:32 PM   #7577
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Linked is the scan of the UMW705, UMW706 and UMW707 instructions. It contains both an eccentrics chart and a reference to the other holders.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B03C...bzA/edit?pli=1
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:44 PM   #7578
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Gotta question, what do the shims that go between the caster block and chasis do? I see that the kit comes with different choices, but don't knowmwhat the effects on handling might be...


Thanks!
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:56 PM   #7579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
Linked is the scan of the UMW705, UMW706 and UMW707 instructions. It contains both an eccentrics chart and a reference to the other holders.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B03C...bzA/edit?pli=1
Thanks for sharing. Do I need to run the hinge pin bushings, if so which ones, plastic, metal or delrin? Thx,

Also, when should one run toe-in at the hub versus at the arm?
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:22 PM   #7580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Thanks for sharing. Do I need to run the hinge pin bushings, if so which ones, plastic, metal or delrin? Thx,

Also, when should one run toe-in at the hub versus at the arm?
Yes you will still need bushings. I stayed with the delrin.

As for the other question regarding toe-in, when you change it at the arm's inner position you are changing wheelbase and dog bone angle. I tend to agree with Dan Griffin's statement on the matter. Difference between inboard and outboard toe-in
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:23 PM   #7581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Or you can just flip the spacers already on the car from when you built the kit. Lol
Yeah, like what do you know about these toy cars?

Oh, and thanks for setting up my RB6. I spent the whole day with it yesterday and it was completely dialed. I didn't even have to switch to my Beams as my ghosted (almost bald) pressure points even provided plenty of traction. I even let Lacey drive it and even he was almost able to keep the thing on the track.
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:47 PM   #7582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
Yes you will still need bushings. I stayed with the delrin.

As for the other question regarding toe-in, when you change it at the arm's inner position you are changing wheelbase and dog bone angle. I tend to agree with Dan Griffin's statement on the matter. Difference between inboard and outboard toe-in
Thx. If the out-B pairing is stock kit (wide 3 degrees) would you know which combo equates narrow 3 degrees?
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:11 PM   #7583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mingoglia View Post
Yeah, like what do you know about these toy cars?

Oh, and thanks for setting up my RB6. I spent the whole day with it yesterday and it was completely dialed. I didn't even have to switch to my Beams as my ghosted (almost bald) pressure points even provided plenty of traction. I even let Lacey drive it and even he was almost able to keep the thing on the track.
Anytime! If you ever have any questions shoot me a text ill pm you my number.
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:02 PM   #7584
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I use the AE 12mm pistons.

GHEA makes some too, but they are about 7.00 more. The AE ones fit perfect.

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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
I am interested in this, what do the tapered ones do and what brand?
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:12 AM   #7585
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the other issue with changing toe inboard is corner entry isnt consistent do to binding in the output cups.. i used to run the wide rear and narrow front hangers on my rt5 to get more forward bite and the truck would sometimes get sketchy on entry. BUT that is a dramatic amount of toe. As i always say the only way to see how it works for you is to try it out
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:12 AM   #7586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skengines View Post
I use the AE 12mm pistons.

GHEA makes some too, but they are about 7.00 more. The AE ones fit perfect.
Negative...the AE pistons (at least the tapered ones) DO NOT fit perfect. They are not a thick as the Kyosho pistons and need shimming to be right or your going to get an inconsistent feel. Not to mention a clicking sound from them slapping against the e clips inside.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:56 AM   #7587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Negative...the AE pistons (at least the tapered ones) DO NOT fit perfect. They are not a thick as the Kyosho pistons and need shimming to be right or your going to get an inconsistent feel. Not to mention a clicking sound from them slapping against the e clips inside.
The GHEA's as mentioned, are a perfect fit - no shimming needed.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:26 AM   #7588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
Linked is the scan of the UMW705, UMW706 and UMW707 instructions. It contains both an eccentrics chart and a reference to the other holders.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B03C...bzA/edit?pli=1
Thanks for posting the instructions. So which configuration creates the narrow setup at 3.0? It looks like In-B/In-B, In-C/In-C, or In-D/In-D could all equal the narrow rear setup at 3.0.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:02 AM   #7589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle3333 View Post
Thanks for posting the instructions. So which configuration creates the narrow setup at 3.0? It looks like In-B/In-B, In-C/In-C, or In-D/In-D could all equal the narrow rear setup at 3.0.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Thx. If the out-B pairing is stock kit (wide 3 degrees) would you know which combo equates narrow 3 degrees?
The "In-C" would equate to the narrow setup if you are currently using the UMW511/UMW512 narrow suspension hangers according to the reference provided in the document.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:18 AM   #7590
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+1more for the ghea pistons.
I have never had a car/ piston combo with a more perfect fit and finish.
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