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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-26-2012, 12:59 PM   #736
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ok guys, RC Racing Designs just got ahold of the kit.

since the rb6 wheelbase is the same as a 22, and the rcrd short chassis really rock on the car , rcrd in going to make a shorter rb6 chassis..

The question is how short do you kyosho guys want it.


respond , looks based upon first messurment ,
it is posible to do a 4mm and a 10mm shrink to the car,
thats just a rough measurement, its almost layed out in the laser and will know for sure..
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:11 PM   #737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
ok guys, RC Racing Designs just got ahold of the kit.

since the rb6 wheelbase is the same as a 22, and the rcrd short chassis really rock on the car , rcrd in going to make a shorter rb6 chassis..

The question is how short do you kyosho guys want it.


respond , looks based upon first messurment ,
it is posible to do a 4mm and a 10mm shrink to the car,
thats just a rough measurement, its almost layed out in the laser and will know for sure..
There is no way to tell at this time. Not until there is a determination that a shorter chassis would even benefit this car. Sure the wheelbase is the same, but it's an entirely different car than the 22.... it may be perfect with it's factory wheel base. The key will be to figure out if the car has issues turning and changing direction. If the car is as stable as other longer cars, but is still nimble and changes direction well, there wont be a need for a short chassis.

Only time will tell.
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 09-26-2012 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:54 PM   #738
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
There is no way to tell at this time. Not until there is a determination that a shorter chassis would even benefit this car. Sure the wheelbase is the same, but it's an entirely different car than the 22.... it may perfect with it's factory wheel base. The key will be to figure out if the car has issues turning and changing direction. If the car is as stable as other longer cars, but is still nimble and changes direction well, there wont be a need for a short chassis.

Only time will tell.
THIS

just like the old xxx-cr, its wheelbase was actually shorter than the b4, but pushed like a sled..

we'll see how Kyosho took care of this with the RB6, the new front end looks to have been changed for that reason.
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:34 PM   #739
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...
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:36 PM   #740
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Any tried the new big bore caps on FS2 SP etc?

I've been using standard bore shocks over big bores this year and will be keeping a set to try on the RB6.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:51 PM   #741
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Also, anybody got pics of rear motor layout/ w R10 pro and a Shorty Lipo?
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:14 PM   #742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
ok guys, RC Racing Designs just got ahold of the kit.

since the rb6 wheelbase is the same as a 22, and the rcrd short chassis really rock on the car , rcrd in going to make a shorter rb6 chassis..

The question is how short do you kyosho guys want it.


respond , looks based upon first messurment ,
it is posible to do a 4mm and a 10mm shrink to the car,
thats just a rough measurement, its almost layed out in the laser and will know for sure..
4mm might be right on target, to match the AE car.

I own the 22 -5mm chassis, and its great. Makes the car actually appear normal sized.
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:21 PM   #743
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Why doesnt the suspension bushing fit in the new one piece shock cap? Has anyone else had this problem? It just slides straight through. I am using the one the manual says
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:34 PM   #744
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Originally Posted by Bluehills315 View Post
Why doesnt the suspension bushing fit in the new one piece shock cap? Has anyone else had this problem? It just slides straight through. I am using the one the manual says
I notice the same thing. The hole in the new shock cap is way bigger than previous plastic.
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:42 PM   #745
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Originally Posted by Bluehills315 View Post
Why doesnt the suspension bushing fit in the new one piece shock cap? Has anyone else had this problem? It just slides straight through. I am using the one the manual says
Mine's the same way. I even tried using the older bushing and it's loose as well. Not sure why it would be this way...? I haven't finished it yet but I'll try it and see how it turns out assembled.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:54 AM   #746
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me View Post
Mine's the same way. I even tried using the older bushing and it's loose as well. Not sure why it would be this way...? I haven't finished it yet but I'll try it and see how it turns out assembled.
it doesn't seem so bad when its screwed on with the washers. must be intentional slop.

on the other hand my kit didn't have the slipper spacers
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:22 AM   #747
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Originally Posted by jelly View Post
it doesn't seem so bad when its screwed on with the washers. must be intentional slop.
Over the years I have found that when you tighten something against plastic the original shape gets deformed. As you imagine it gets worse. However in this case it sounds like this might be planned but I could be wrong.
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:00 AM   #748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluehills315 View Post
Why doesnt the suspension bushing fit in the new one piece shock cap? Has anyone else had this problem? It just slides straight through. I am using the one the manual says
Most people tighten the screw on too tight which caused the shock to have enough play in it to rock back and forth. Now, when you tighten the screw on there tight, it allows the shock to have proper play.

Also, why is everyone already trying to figure out how to customize a new chassis? The new RB6 is awesome. I have two friends that have driven theirs already and they both say it is the best buggy ever. Just my 2 cents...
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:17 AM   #749
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As you tighten the nut, it will compress and expand the bushing inside the shock cap. Make sure they aren't so tight they bind the shock, and make sure they are equal left and right.
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:29 AM   #750
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Originally Posted by lewis4x4 View Post
Most people tighten the screw on too tight which caused the shock to have enough play in it to rock back and forth. Now, when you tighten the screw on there tight, it allows the shock to have proper play.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
As you tighten the nut, it will compress and expand the bushing inside the shock cap. Make sure they aren't so tight they bind the shock, and make sure they are equal left and right.
Cool, thanks guys, that's kinda what I figured but I knocked off last night at 11:30 before I could finish the shocks. Really nice build so far, what I expected. I did notice the front caster blocks fit fairly tight in the front arms with the new insert/bushing, so I sanded the inside of the arms a little bit to free them up. Other than that, I haven't had to do anything out of the ordinary. My kit didn't seem to have the slipper spacers for the spring in it either...? But I noticed from the manual the one that sits on the outside slipper disc looked very small compared to the older one. I never had an issue with the RB5 slipper, so I just used that with vented discs in this build. The larger diameter spring plate makes more sense to me as it would distribute the load more evenly across the slipper disc. Looking forward to running it this weekend!
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