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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 06-30-2013, 06:51 AM   #7441
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30 degree block is going to give the car more on power steering
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:20 AM   #7442
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Anybody needs Avid top shaft I have 2 F/S cheap!
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:46 PM   #7443
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Anybody needs Avid top shaft I have 2 F/S cheap!
how much for both shipped? are they new? thanks
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:05 AM   #7444
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I recently changed my Rb back to rear motor because I plan to run at an outdoor track, was running RM with narrow hangers first, then MM which is only wide blocks, this time tried wide block RM, and the car was really good, I beat my best lap by .3ths and finally got a 18 lap run in, and won the 17.5 race.
Congrats! My results were the opposite I went from RM to MM and went faster. RM fast lap in mod was 18.7 went to MM and was going 18.5/6 out the gate. After a few tweaks throughout the night my fast lap was an 18.2 with consistent 18.4/5 in the main. Still have a bit more to play with but it looks promising. Once I get comfortable with the MM ill venture to our other local tracks and see how it does in various traction levels.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:08 AM   #7445
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how is your layout with your mid motor?
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:16 AM   #7446
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how is your layout with your mid motor?
Checkout OHRCR on YouTube. Tires of choose range from hb beams to green barcodes to ss vektors.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:53 AM   #7447
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Checkout OHRCR on YouTube. Tires of choose range from hb beams to green barcodes to ss vektors.
are you running saddles, shorty? where?
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:03 AM   #7448
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are you running saddles, shorty? where?
Being that I just converted it I am running a short lipo straight down the middle with the Esc between it and the servo. I ran the receiver on the left of the battery since I ran the motor wires down the right to offset it a bit. I will be dremeling the side pods to run the short lipo sideways right up against the tranny this week sometime and test again to see how the car reacts. I was able to get it to wheelie at will in the current setup and it jumped great. After the mods this week ill see if it will affect the jumping and turning. As of right now I have way more steering than I need so I could stand to give a bit.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:14 AM   #7449
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Im running on a slick indoor clay track. I just cant seem to get hooked up, steering or rear traction. Anyone have a suggestion on a set up to try?
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:20 AM   #7450
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Im running on a slick indoor clay track. I just cant seem to get hooked up, steering or rear traction. Anyone have a suggestion on a set up to try?
Tires, what are you running? if there is no dust/loam, might need slicks.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:35 AM   #7451
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Im running on a slick indoor clay track. I just cant seem to get hooked up, steering or rear traction. Anyone have a suggestion on a set up to try?
We need way more info like your setup, tires, even a video of you track can help. Tires are the biggest thing make sure you have the proper tire if in doubt ask or see what your local fast guys are running.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:36 AM   #7452
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Orion 2ktc. The most important upgrade is the rear suspension hangers. Also go to the 1st page of this thread and all the info u need is right there. Carbon fiber shock towers are just bling. Money would be better spent on tires and track time. You will love this car its definitly quality components, fit and finish. As far as building it. Just take your time and pay attention to everything inthe manual and to the fit and free movement of all assembled parts. There is nothing that you should need to jam together it all fits together nice and smooth like every other kyosho kit. Any questions feel free to pm me or ask here theres always someone willing to help out
What's the difference between the hangers? There are narrow and wides available.

Last edited by Orion_2kTC; 07-01-2013 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 07-01-2013, 02:33 PM   #7453
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Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Being that I just converted it I am running a short lipo straight down the middle with the Esc between it and the servo. I ran the receiver on the left of the battery since I ran the motor wires down the right to offset it a bit. I will be dremeling the side pods to run the short lipo sideways right up against the tranny this week sometime and test again to see how the car reacts. I was able to get it to wheelie at will in the current setup and it jumped great. After the mods this week ill see if it will affect the jumping and turning. As of right now I have way more steering than I need so I could stand to give a bit.
cool, that's how I got mine setup exactly. waiting on my motor to arrive to try it out.
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:34 PM   #7454
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What's the difference between the hangers? There are narrow and wides available.

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Q: What are the rear suspension hangers, and do I purchase the wide, or narrow track width hangers?
A: The rear suspension hangers are what mount the rear suspension arms of the car, to the chassis. There is one hanger in front of the rear arms, and one behind. The one in front is marked as a RF (rear front), and the one behind the arm is marked RR (rear rear). There are two different pairs of hangers you can use, and you can either use the plastic versions that come with the car with the metal bushings, or aftermarket aluminum versions with the plastic bushings. On the RB5, they were a weak spot on the car. The plastic ones that come with the RB6 appear to be stronger. So while aluminum versions are not necessary, they are certainly an advisable upgrade if your wallet allows. Always run the plastic or derlin bushings when running the aluminum suspension hangers.

Wide Hangers: The wide hangers provide a wider rear track width. A wider rear track width does two things to the rear of the car: a) Provides a bit more stability over small bumps, and b) raises the roll center in the rear of the car - A higher roll center provides more roll resistance - More roll resistance means the rear of the car will roll less in the corners - Less roll means less traction gain throughout the corner. (i.e. use the wide hangers for more steering)
Wide Rear Front Hanger, KYOUMW514GM - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=1787
Wide Rear Rear Hanger, KYOUMW515GM - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=1789
Derlin suspension bushings, KYOLAW32 - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=2143

Narrow Hangers: The narrow hangers provide a more narrow rear track width. A narrow rear track width does two things to the rear of the car: a) Provides a bit less stability over small bumps, and b) lowers the roll center in the rear of the car - A lower roll center provides less roll resistance - Less roll resistance means the rear of the car will roll more in the corners - more roll means more traction gain throughout the corner. (i.e. use the narrow hangers for more rear traction in corners)
Narrow Rear Front Hanger, KYOUMW511GM - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=1791
Narrow Rear Rear Hanger, KYOUMW512GM - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=1790
Derlin suspension bushings, KYOLAW32 - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=2143

Now, you're going to ask, which to run? Well, it is all driver preference. When I ran the RB5, I found the car needed more stability and a LOT more rotation, so I ran the wide hangers. But the RB6 is an entirely different animal. The car is super stable, and is super aggressive right out of the box. I personally run the narrow hangers to help lock the rear end in, in the corners. My RB6 does NOT need more steering. But, your mileage may vary, and most setups are a constant work-in-progress. It might be a good idea to run the plastic hangers first to figure out which you prefer, before you shell out a lot of money for the aluminum version.

Source.....petit rc

Last edited by David Home; 07-01-2013 at 03:36 PM. Reason: *
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:44 PM   #7455
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Originally Posted by David Home View Post

Source.....petit rc
Or better yet, read it at the real source
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