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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 06-14-2013, 05:10 PM   #7261
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When building the car in mid motor with the 521-1 rear arms do you run the 2 mm spacers. I would say no but thought I'd ask

Also do you have to grind the chassis to get the arm to clear?
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:10 PM   #7262
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Thanks Kraig
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:22 PM   #7263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdowney View Post
If you run saddle packs you will probably have to shave off the two plastic mounting posts on the front of the motor guard in order to fit them in, then you position the forward battery holder as far back as you can. This gives you room for the ESC and Rx in front of the battery. I copied this off of the team drivers' layouts.

Only catch is the battery strap is about 1mm too short to fit under the motor guard and hold the batteries down (the mounting posts you shaved off would have held the back portion of the battery hold down, allowing the strap to fit under it). My solution was to buy the JConcepts CF battery strap for the B4.2 and dremel off the front portion of it, then shorten the length a bit. It looks great.

I noticed on Ty Tessman's MM RB6, which he ran saddle packs with when he won the World's warm up last weekend, that he didn't seem to be using a battery strap. I'm guessing he taped them or something. Based on the pic, it didn't look like he had just removed it while in the pits.
Thx Mike
Any link to pix?
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Old 06-15-2013, 02:39 AM   #7264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanJ View Post
Exactly, sorry if that seemed unclear. I'll mess around with them some more in a few weeks, but that's how it felt to me. I might have gotten the droop wrong when switching, though, so I'll try harder to do a real apples-apples comparison next time around.
now that i have gotten some sleep and reread it. it is more clear sorry about that
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:42 PM   #7265
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Sorry if this is already been asked but how exactly is the sideways shorty being put into the car? Are they dremling the side lower to make batt set flush to on chassis or letting it hover a little of the chassis?
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Old 06-16-2013, 12:15 AM   #7266
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dremel
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Old 06-16-2013, 12:21 AM   #7267
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Anyone had issue with the steering not centering every time?

Car has exotek rack installed
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Old 06-16-2013, 12:47 AM   #7268
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on the bench or on the track?

It's usually due to the servo imo. I'm running an RSX one10 LP and it usually is about half a deg out trying to centre on the setup station, but centres properly in practice.

Check your slop anyway. From memory the Exotek rack needed a couple of shims between the rack and the cranks.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:13 PM   #7269
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Currently in the market for a new esc, out of curiosity whats everybody else running in their rb6? - Would be running stock 17.5
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:23 PM   #7270
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I have used the tekin gen 2 rs and the gen 1 rs and they are ok. I was adviser by another racer that the Orion is the smoothest. Ill have to try that one next.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:28 PM   #7271
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I have the Orion Race version in mine and I really like it.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:32 PM   #7272
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I just tried out the Novak Pulse / Vulcan combo and was very pleased at the smoothness of it, both throttle and brakes. I have only ran it in 17.5 blinky as of yet.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:47 PM   #7273
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Orion all day everyday zero issues since day one running both 17.5 blinky and a 7.5 in mod.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:50 PM   #7274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umm winning View Post
Currently in the market for a new esc, out of curiosity whats everybody else running in their rb6? - Would be running stock 17.5
I run the Viper VTX10 Black Edition. You don't need the 'R' unless you plan on dropping under 6.5T or 4wd.
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:00 PM   #7275
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+1 on the Orions very smooth. Also, check out the Hacker Tensoric ESC's. They are the same ESC's as Orion and a few bucks cheaper. Link in my signature.
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