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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 06-13-2013, 08:40 PM   #7246
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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
Can the mid motor use saddle packs? I don't have any shorty, only saw shorty setups on petitrc
If you run saddle packs you will probably have to shave off the two plastic mounting posts on the front of the motor guard in order to fit them in, then you position the forward battery holder as far back as you can. This gives you room for the ESC and Rx in front of the battery. I copied this off of the team drivers' layouts.

Only catch is the battery strap is about 1mm too short to fit under the motor guard and hold the batteries down (the mounting posts you shaved off would have held the back portion of the battery hold down, allowing the strap to fit under it). My solution was to buy the JConcepts CF battery strap for the B4.2 and dremel off the front portion of it, then shorten the length a bit. It looks great.

I noticed on Ty Tessman's MM RB6, which he ran saddle packs with when he won the World's warm up last weekend, that he didn't seem to be using a battery strap. I'm guessing he taped them or something. Based on the pic, it didn't look like he had just removed it while in the pits.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:53 PM   #7247
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Quote:
I assume a ZX6 since there was some photos of Tebo with a 4wd buggy with an aluminum chassis.
You can see the motor has been turned around like all the other 4wds, ie slipper in the middle of the car
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:09 PM   #7248
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To expand... you need to purchase the Avid top shaft for the RB6 in order to use the Triad slipper.
Turns out mine had a missing washer. AVID is sending me one.
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:00 AM   #7249
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Yes

Inconsistent
Couldn't agree less mate. RB6 is easily the best and most consistent 2wd car I've run since the Ultima Pro around 1988!

If your car felt inconsistent then it must have been setup based, hardly touch mine now venue to venue. Love this car, wish I could do it justice!
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:12 AM   #7250
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For those who have run it mid motor, why does the track have to be super tight for it to work?

I think most people in the states are afraid of mid motor. If the car is loose, there are ways to mechanically fix that besides hanging a brick in back

Just got my rb-6 and building it today
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:34 AM   #7251
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Originally Posted by Jam-Air View Post
For those who have run it mid motor, why does the track have to be super tight for it to work?

I think most people in the states are afraid of mid motor. If the car is loose, there are ways to mechanically fix that besides hanging a brick in back
Great question. I'd like to hear the responses to as well.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:42 AM   #7252
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hhaha I still have nightmares about my mid motor cougar. The rb6 was better but still lazy for me and with regards to us style tracks, the many hairpins just dont allow you to take the lines which are fastest with a mid motor. The track has marbles there so looser there. Better to follow the RM racing line but then you cannot pin the throttle fast enough in MM.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:42 AM   #7253
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It dosent have to be super tight. it just excels better there in those conditions compared to the rm cars because the cornering speed is that much faster. On tight tracks races are usually won on the infield.
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:34 PM   #7254
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In my opinion, mid motor cars should be better in any hard pack track condition that isn't got tons of fluf. The car should also excel in stock where you need momentum that usually inertia of a mod motor generates. The car will just flat rotate better
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:51 PM   #7255
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The factory guys on our track use the pendulum effect of rm well to rotate on a dime on the tight hairpins (most are b4.2s). Our track has crazy grip, orange bar codes with no sauce can do wheelies on the straight with a mod motor. So gaining a few on fast sweepers negates the advantage of being faster on 3 tight hairpins.
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:15 PM   #7256
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I've preferred mid-motor everywhere indoors so far, five different tracks and eight different layouts in the SoCal area since I got the car a couple of months ago. Some were/are pretty loose surfaces and some were very high grip. Haven't raced it outdoors yet.

I'd also add that in MM config, I prefer the kit arms to the 521-1 arms when the grip is lower. I liked the 521-1's at OCRC and West Coast. But that's just me, YMMV.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:06 PM   #7257
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Originally Posted by BryanJ View Post
I've preferred mid-motor everywhere indoors so far, five different tracks and eight different layouts in the SoCal area since I got the car a couple of months ago. Some were/are pretty loose surfaces and some were very high grip. Haven't raced it outdoors yet.

I'd also add that in MM config, I prefer the kit arms to the 521-1 arms when the grip is lower. I liked the 521-1's at OCRC and West Coast. But that's just me, YMMV.
so your saying you think the 521-1 arms generate more grip? or is it a feel thing?
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:20 PM   #7258
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I think he is saying the kit arms generate more traction

Can some one explain how much toe in it has in rear and what the differences are in the rf blocks?
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:29 PM   #7259
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I think he is saying the kit arms generate more traction
Exactly, sorry if that seemed unclear. I'll mess around with them some more in a few weeks, but that's how it felt to me. I might have gotten the droop wrong when switching, though, so I'll try harder to do a real apples-apples comparison next time around.
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:07 PM   #7260
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I think he is saying the kit arms generate more traction

Can some one explain how much toe in it has in rear and what the differences are in the rf blocks?
3 degree's.

Check the first post on this thread and it should answer your question about the rear blocks.
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