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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 06-06-2013, 06:58 PM   #7141
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or if he has a clue what he's talking about
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your just a keyboard hero with nothing to contribute. Its a sad life you lead sir
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your a winner. not sure who pee'd in your cheerios, but I will be up in phx in a couple weeks at w3, your more than welcome to further discuss your issues with me in person. cats eat gophers, just say'in
Let's real it in here a little bit fellas, we're all on the same team
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:28 PM   #7142
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Nope, longer links lower your roll center, which decreases roll resistance (more roll)


It does, as I explained what you will get when you run the narrow hangers.

Wider track = more roll resistance = less traction/bite when cornering
Narrow track = more roll = more traction/bite when cornering
ok, I agree. I misread what you said, I thought you were saying less roll with narrow hangers. And yeah, I know longer links lower the roll center,lol.

ok, regardless of the science and math. My rb6 was extremely planed on low bit surfaces with the wide hangers. Way more so than the b4. So I cant imagine even more side bite. I dont think i would have liked it much. But I got my kit used and it didnt come with the narrow hangers, so I was unable to try. But I was so happy with the wide hangers and dropping 2 seconds per lap over the b4, I guess I really didnt even care to try it. it turned onn a dime and never lost grip.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:54 PM   #7143
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Bob, the c-hubs "raise" the roll center. The a-hubs lower the roll center. So, you were wanting a relationship I think.

Narrow hangers = raise the roll center and the c-hubs raise the roll center
Wide Hangers = lower roll center and the A hubs lower the roll center.

Now these are different cars, so I am not sure i would directly correlate those comparisons. That being said, I always thought my b4 rolled more with A hubs than the C. It always wanted to skate with the C hubs. If you have the stock arms and wide hangers, I would still try it out for comparison. It only only maters how it feels to you.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:27 PM   #7144
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As a layman I look at it this way: imagine you're running the 100m. When you start off the blocks your legs are planted wider for stability. Once you're posture is stable, you narrow your legs for more forward traction, concentrating on pushing yourself forward. If you try running with your legs wide the entire race you won't get that forward push down the stretch.

The wide hangers will reduce chances of flipping when cornering, sacrificing traction. For low traction and bumpy tracks I go for wide hangers. On a stable high traction track I go for narrow. My 2 cents, Cheers!
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:57 PM   #7145
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As a layman I look at it this way: imagine you're running the 100m. When you start off the blocks your legs are planted wider for stability. Once you're posture is stable, you narrow your legs for more forward traction, concentrating on pushing yourself forward. If you try running with your legs wide the entire race you won't get that forward push down the stretch.

The wide hangers will reduce chances of flipping when cornering, sacrificing traction. For low traction and bumpy tracks I go for wide hangers. On a stable high traction track I go for narrow. My 2 cents, Cheers!
lol, I was thinking of the running thing also. something my coach said when I was on the track team. But I was not sure if running and cars are the same, lol. I was also thinking about dragsters that put the wheels close together. That is why when I was told narrow wheel base was more forward bite, it sounded believable. Also, lol. Wider arms and hangers weight more, thus more weight over the rear wheels for forward bite, lol.
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:46 PM   #7146
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Narrow hangers = raise the roll center and the c-hubs raise the roll center
Wide Hangers = lower roll center and the A hubs lower the roll center.
No.. you still have that backwards.

Narrow hangers = lowers the roll center
Wide Hangers = raises the roll center
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:25 AM   #7147
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No.. you still have that backwards.

Narrow hangers = lowers the roll center
Wide Hangers = raises the roll center
grrr. longer links have the same roll center effect as raising the inner ball stud, no? raising the stud/longer link lower the roll center. yes?
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:35 AM   #7148
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Raising and lowering the ballstud depends on if you are doing it inboard or outboard. inboard it's the opposite, up to lower, down to raise. Outboard it's the same, up to raise, down to lower. The change inboard is more significant than the change outboard.

Think of it this way
If you raise the inboard 1mm and leave outboard alone, you lower roll center by a 'full step'
If you raise inboard AND outboard 1mm, you are lowering roll center by 'half a step'. This is because while you are lowering the RC inboard, you are counteracting that change slightly outboard.

So when I say C Hub or A Hub, I am taking into consideration the value of the entire change (inboard and outboard).

Now that we are done talking about Roll Centers, can we drool over the RT6 some?
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:42 AM   #7149
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yeah, but the net change for the C is still a higher roll center. yeah, I know on the outside up is up and down is down.

Is the RT6 out?
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:00 AM   #7150
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grrr. longer links have the same roll center effect as raising the inner ball stud, no?
Well.. sort of. They both lower the roll center, but they are different as to WHEN (along the roll) the "resistance to roll" changes.

For example, if the angle of the link stays exactly the same, but all you do is make the link longer... with both cars sitting side by side with neither of them rolling... the roll center is exactly the same. It's not until after the car has started to roll, that the extra (or less) roll resistance comes in. Think of a curved graph.

but the short answer to your question is "yes", they both lower the roll center.

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raising the stud/longer link lower the roll center. yes?
yes (inner stud).
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:22 AM   #7151
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Read the section on roll center and camber links from this xxx main set up guide. This is for onroad cars but the principles are the same for all cars. Start with page 60 for roll center explanations.

http://www.brccc.co.za/Info/Main%20C...up%20Guide.pdf
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:15 PM   #7152
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Read the section on roll center and camber links from this xxx main set up guide. This is for onroad cars but the principles are the same for all cars. Start with page 60 for roll center explanations.

http://www.brccc.co.za/Info/Main%20C...up%20Guide.pdf
I still have those RR and RF blocks in gun metal NIP as well as a NIP alum. 1deg rear hub in blue for sale...
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:28 PM   #7153
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At least I try to be helful on line and at the track. Where as your just a keyboard hero with nothing to contribute. Its a sad life you lead sir
You are the biggest troll on this forum. Just spamming the threads for attention. Spewing out misinformation about cars you don't even race.

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Old 06-07-2013, 02:12 PM   #7154
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You are the biggest troll on this forum. Just spamming the threads for attention. Spewing out misinformation about cars you don't even race.

Wildcat is Wildcherry's son?
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:34 PM   #7155
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Wildcat is Wildcherry's son?
? He is?

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