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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-28-2013, 08:44 PM   #6976
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I personally run Proline fronts and Kyosho rears.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:46 PM   #6977
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I stopped running proline wheels when i was tweaking them after every run. They are too soft for my pipe smashing self, lol.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:53 PM   #6978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Was curious to see this setup but apparently my iphone feels the need to just show me a blank setup sheet.
I went ahead and converted it to a normal image so you could view it easier, here is the link. Thanks for checking it out!
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:01 PM   #6979
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Ughh...same here.

I seem to have trouble on high traction surfaces.

I need to get out to WCRC more.

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It is because he have a lot of traction heros out in the west, lol. I actually can do well when the traction is crap, lol. When the traction comes up, I get spanked, lol. oh well.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:36 AM   #6980
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Originally Posted by skengines View Post
Ughh...same here.

I seem to have trouble on high traction surfaces.

I need to get out to WCRC more.
lol I am the total oppisote. I can only drive on high traction tracks!!
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:06 AM   #6981
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Originally Posted by Team G Racing View Post
lol I am the total oppisote. I can only drive on high traction tracks!!
hehe same here. If I cannot pop wheelies on the straightway for 2wd buggy then I loose confidence. With wheeler and 4wd sct its different loose = faster for me.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:27 AM   #6982
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Default KYOSHO RB6 W/ PARTS LOT.

Sold
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:35 AM   #6983
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Default KYOSHO RB6 W/ PARTS LOT.

Sorry for the dbl post
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:20 PM   #6984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Was curious to see this setup but apparently my iphone feels the need to just show me a blank setup sheet.
Install the adobe reader app from ITunes. It is free and then the setup will show up.

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Old 05-29-2013, 10:05 PM   #6985
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Guys I'm curious, 10 years ago we used to only run Ribs for front tires. Now we run different types. I run on clay tracks mostly, what does a rib front tire do that a barcode or suburb does not. Under what type of circumstances do you use ribs now a days?
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:18 PM   #6986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steam View Post
Guys I'm curious, 10 years ago we used to only run Ribs for front tires. Now we run different types. I run on clay tracks mostly, what does a rib front tire do that a barcode or suburb does not. Under what type of circumstances do you use ribs now a days?
Some still run ribbed tires. I run "Rips" sometimes on our clay track. It's a good all around front tire that wears forever. I tend to get a bit more push though and depending on how far we're in from the track rebuild I usually end up switching to a suburb.

On a loamy track, which I rarely run on but when I do the JConcepts "Groovy" is the tire I go to.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:29 PM   #6987
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I've been running ribs (everyone else does) on my outdoor track and have only just started changing over to 2wd holeshots. Ribs give more steering, but if your track gets rutted (some clowns think it's a good idea to ride bikes on a muddy track) they can occasionally release/grab traction leading to them feeling somewhat inconsistent and in my case, leading to rollovers from when they grab traction.

I've found that smaller and less edged ribs (such as jconcepts rips or those aka 3rib) are a bit smoother in terms of corner steering than regular ribs (groovy, losi wide ribs, etc) but have less initial turn in.

On my track, suburbs/scrubs/vektors/barcodes don't give very much steering. Too dusty. I've found that pl 2wd holeshots and AKA Rebars (not sure why rebars are working) give almost as much steering as regular ribs, but without the release/grab over rough corners and they roll better over rough surfaces.

If your track is run damp and soft (ie, something the rib can bite into), I'd probably still run ribs depending on how smooth it is. My choice right now are m3 or m4 holeshots both wet and dry.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:34 PM   #6988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steam View Post
Guys I'm curious, 10 years ago we used to only run Ribs for front tires. Now we run different types. I run on clay tracks mostly, what does a rib front tire do that a barcode or suburb does not. Under what type of circumstances do you use ribs now a days?
I don't think 10 years we had nicely prepped clay tracks that would blue groove?

At the last IFMAR 1/10, the guys were running rips or groovy. This is off-road we're talking about!
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:15 PM   #6989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steam View Post
Guys I'm curious, 10 years ago we used to only run Ribs for front tires. Now we run different types. I run on clay tracks mostly, what does a rib front tire do that a barcode or suburb does not. Under what type of circumstances do you use ribs now a days?
I am not an expert so take my .02 for what it's worth...
Barcode "type" tires seem to offer more surface area to grip smooth tracks like indoor clay etc. The small bars act like siping on real truck tires and provide more pliable grip. Those characteristics might be lost on dusty, loamy tracks that a sharp ribbed tire can cut through easier.
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:36 AM   #6990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
I've been running ribs (everyone else does) on my outdoor track and have only just started changing over to 2wd holeshots. Ribs give more steering, but if your track gets rutted (some clowns think it's a good idea to ride bikes on a muddy track) they can occasionally release/grab traction leading to them feeling somewhat inconsistent and in my case, leading to rollovers from when they grab traction.

I've found that smaller and less edged ribs (such as jconcepts rips or those aka 3rib) are a bit smoother in terms of corner steering than regular ribs (groovy, losi wide ribs, etc) but have less initial turn in.

On my track, suburbs/scrubs/vektors/barcodes don't give very much steering. Too dusty. I've found that pl 2wd holeshots and AKA Rebars (not sure why rebars are working) give almost as much steering as regular ribs, but without the release/grab over rough corners and they roll better over rough surfaces.

If your track is run damp and soft (ie, something the rib can bite into), I'd probably still run ribs depending on how smooth it is. My choice right now are m3 or m4 holeshots both wet and dry.
I've only tried Rips (green) and 8175 (M3) on the front of this car. It steers a ton with both but can be inconsistent. I want to get a set of the Holeshot fronts and try them after seeing Fred have good luck with them. I know that one of our locals actually made Double Dee fronts on his AE buggy and said they were very good too, so that leads me to believe that any 'pin' front would work well.
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