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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-16-2013, 12:59 AM   #6826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecool View Post
Just spent all night changing my car from rear motor to mid motor. Gonna race it on carpet this summer. Anyone have tips for setting a car up on carpet? I usually add camber to the front and rear, last year I had about 3 degrees. 5wt thicker oil in shocks. Used 30 degree kick up. And basically left everything else the same.
Good place to start: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...stone20130209/

Its astroturf, but grip levels are more similar to carpet.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:02 AM   #6827
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whats that thing on your spur? slipper eliminator?
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:56 AM   #6828
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Default Exotec Aluminium Hangers

Hi,

I'm racing my RB6 since end 2012. Great car !

Just one short question: is anyone running the exotec aluminium hangers ? aspecially in mid motor ?

Which inserts do you use with it ? Simply stock (KYOLAW39) ?

Regards.

Dennis
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:31 AM   #6829
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whats that thing on your spur? slipper eliminator?
Yes. speedtech hobby turbo hub with a TC 64p spur.
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:34 AM   #6830
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Originally Posted by Den303 View Post
Hi,

I'm racing my RB6 since end 2012. Great car !

Just one short question: is anyone running the exotec aluminium hangers ? aspecially in mid motor ?

Which inserts do you use with it ? Simply stock (KYOLAW39) ?

Regards.

Dennis
No use the delrin ones. The stocks are only good for plastic.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:27 AM   #6831
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Yes. speedtech hobby turbo hub with a TC 64p spur.
Do you have any closeups of the turbo hub?
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:30 AM   #6832
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Do you have any closeups of the turbo hub?


You do need the avid top shaft for the speedtech part to work but the speedtechs the best machined part out there. I have the customworks one and thats sloppy $hit. Also can use the perfect size spur gears for moving motor closest to the axles while maintaining FDR required for stock.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:32 PM   #6833
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Looks like a RW Racing spur
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:56 PM   #6834
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I made a couple of big changes to my car this last weekend and loved the result. Instead of moving to mid-motor, I decided to try and get my motor as close to the gearbox as possible im RM config, and went with the longest rear wheelbase setting. The car was a blast to drive! Less pendulume affect, more stable, faster in the sweeper, and I could push the car harder everywhere on the track. All I changed was:

- Switched to IONs all around, from gold barcodes
- Geared at 66:30 (puts motor all the way forward for 17.5)
- Ran rear hubs all the way rearward.

Can't wait to run it again like that this weekend.
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Old 05-16-2013, 02:15 PM   #6835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
You do need the avid top shaft for the speedtech part to work but the speedtechs the best machined part out there. I have the customworks one and thats sloppy $hit. Also can use the perfect size spur gears for moving motor closest to the axles while maintaining FDR required for stock.
Any idea how the speedy's racing part fits? Also, what is the screw thread for the speedtech turbo hub? Metric or SAE?
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:10 PM   #6836
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Any idea how the speedy's racing part fits? Also, what is the screw thread for the speedtech turbo hub? Metric or SAE?
Speedys I did not buy. I had placed an order but cancelled it since did not have the avid top shaft. I think its the same as the custom works part. For the speedtech hub its m3 screws. But the spur floats lengthwise on the top shaft so needs securing with that 4 mm spacer I put in the pic (had a spring before that works too).
Yes its a machined rw spur from my xray tc.
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:11 PM   #6837
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I made a couple of big changes to my car this last weekend and loved the result. Instead of moving to mid-motor, I decided to try and get my motor as close to the gearbox as possible im RM config, and went with the longest rear wheelbase setting. The car was a blast to drive! Less pendulume affect, more stable, faster in the sweeper, and I could push the car harder everywhere on the track. All I changed was:

- Switched to IONs all around, from gold barcodes
- Geared at 66:30 (puts motor all the way forward for 17.5)
- Ran rear hubs all the way rearward.

Can't wait to run it again like that this weekend.
Nice was the battery all the way ahead as well?
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:29 PM   #6838
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Nice was the battery all the way ahead as well?
Nope, kept the shorty dead smack middle like I have always run it. There certainly isn't a shortage of weight up front, so i didn't feel a need to move more weight forward. Seems like a really really good balance right now...
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:08 PM   #6839
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I made a couple of big changes to my car this last weekend and loved the result. Instead of moving to mid-motor, I decided to try and get my motor as close to the gearbox as possible im RM config, and went with the longest rear wheelbase setting. The car was a blast to drive! Less pendulume affect, more stable, faster in the sweeper, and I could push the car harder everywhere on the track. All I changed was:

- Switched to IONs all around, from gold barcodes
- Geared at 66:30 (puts motor all the way forward for 17.5)
- Ran rear hubs all the way rearward.

Can't wait to run it again like that this weekend.
What did you use for inserts? Have you tried pressure points?

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Old 05-16-2013, 08:08 PM   #6840
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What did you use for inserts? Have you tried pressure points?

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