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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-13-2013, 05:00 PM   #6781
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Can u advice on what kind of shims bc my steering has lots of play.
Thanks or anyone



Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo tom View Post
I have to chime in.

I own a lot of 2wd and even if I was not interested at all by Kyosho cars when I get back to the hobby I went naturally to them because the plastic are just great, harldly broke, and because just about every aspect of the car seems very well thought out.
Ballcups never came off (unless a very big crash where another brand of car would have broke wishbones and caster blocks), diffs are the best by far (I run a diff 6 months with a Bfast kit) and shocks are just great.
I race 13.5 boosted so transmission got hit pretty hard on high grip.

So RB6. Just awesome. Since July I broke a front shock tower, a mid rear bulkhead (at the ball end location) and one front wishbone. Got a thread gone on a caster block but I used a too short ball end.
I'm not gentle at all, got a lot of crashes and our club track got a triple jump that is a car breaker.
10 months of very hard use, beside a very hard crash that cost me the rear bulkhead (used on the shortest position, that explain it a bit) and a friend running the car and hit the pipe metal hook at full speed costing me a wishbone I'm looking at a shock tower I broke two days ago. Extremely sturdy.
That means a huge price on parts I didn't have to buy so I'm seriously thinking this car price is rather competitive in the long therm.

Options parts.
I put Lunsford turnbuckles and screws from a previous car RB5 based as well as a set of Boca orange but other than that I race it stock (mid motor).
For my style of driving, alloy steering rack was a must (I broke twice the plastic one at the same race, never had issues after using the Exotek one).
I put old blue alloy hubs from my older K car, might have broke once a ball end thread.
That would be about it if budget is a concern.
I noticed quite some slop from the plastic rear hangers using metal bushing and put some delrin one and it was way better, still is.
Any car needs some slop, at least offroad cars. I noticed right from the build that Kyosho really improve their part fitment over the 5 series, just the right amount of slop.
I have to say the rear/rear hanger in rear motor format isn't as strong as expected so I might advise for that part if you run rear motor.
I did tweak the front hinge pins holder and bent the front brace. Went for an alloy block from Ghea and a custom machined brace.

Considering how happy I am with the car, I'm planning to add more options parts from Kyosho as I have to say they offered the least they could do in the kit. Plastic hangers, plastic steering, plastic hubs, rather thin non ventilated motor plate,... But I will be happy to buy those upgrades parts as I just love the car.

Handling wise, the mid motor car is just amazing, up to the best conversion offered for rear motors cars and that was very hard to nail.
Rear motor is more conventional but yet I felt very comfortable running the car the few times I did. Will do more as we have some races on dirt but I do believe the car is up to the best here too.

Three points to check after 10 months :
- Some wear on diff outdrives and CVD
- Rear plastic blocks slope (might have been too much use of metal bushing)
- Steering parts got some serious slop, mainly due to not shim the Exotek plate and wear from alloy to alloy friction (bushings/plate)

Now I'm eager to see what they could do on the ZX6 !
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:43 PM   #6782
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
Ok how about this...
I need more stabity in the sweeper, it gets a little bit squirley mid corner, an wants to go into the wall. What do you guys suggest.?
When I was in midmotor configuration I could hold throttle all the way through and rail it.
Ryan, I am still learning about setup but have found that increasing the kickup/caster makes the car feel more stable and less twitchy especially in the hi-speed sections. I'm running 30* kickup & 0* caster blocks at TRCR and find it works well for me. That said, Kyosho fast-guy Ryan Matesa runs 25* kickup & 0* caster blocks and he's very fast. He's also an ace driver. My .02.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:27 PM   #6783
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I am running 30* block and 0* inserts . Also the tires are 1/2 worn barcodes with a whole rear stock open cell foam in em. I know alot of guys cut em to 3/4 before putting them in the tire.
I can get through the sweeper fine but it was seriously railing through full throttle when it was mid motor. I recently switched back to rear and that is really the only area I am missing. Maybe I was a bit spoiled with the mm for that section.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:02 AM   #6784
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I prefer 25/0 as the more caster makes the car hook on exit due to the camber gain.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:54 AM   #6785
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
I am running 30* block and 0* inserts . Also the tires are 1/2 worn barcodes with a whole rear stock open cell foam in em. I know alot of guys cut em to 3/4 before putting them in the tire.
I can get through the sweeper fine but it was seriously railing through full throttle when it was mid motor. I recently switched back to rear and that is really the only area I am missing. Maybe I was a bit spoiled with the mm for that section.
Try moving the rear shocks in one hole on the tower.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:01 AM   #6786
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http://www.exotekracing.com/rb6-hinge-pin-brace-7075/
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:14 AM   #6787
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Built my second rb6 in mid motor. That thing is light with the mid motor parts for some reason. I just put titanium turnbuckles and aluminum cranks and rack in front. Rest is all plastic and it weighs around 1520 grams RTR (promatch IP shorty, tekin 17.5, hw 3, futaba low pro servo, sanwa receiver,16ga wire). Hope it drives as well as it weighs!!!!
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:51 PM   #6788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Built my second rb6 in mid motor. That thing is light with the mid motor parts for some reason. I just put titanium turnbuckles and aluminum cranks and rack in front. Rest is all plastic and it weighs around 1520 grams RTR (promatch IP shorty, tekin 17.5, hw 3, futaba low pro servo, sanwa receiver,16ga wire). Hope it drives as well as it weighs!!!!
Sounds fun! Let us know how MM is compared to rear motor. I am debating converting to MM but would like more input
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:11 AM   #6789
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again any advice on shim for steering would be helpful, like what size and approx. how many to use or start at. thanks
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:55 AM   #6790
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buy some 0.1mm shims and start at 1?
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:15 AM   #6791
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Hey guys, looking to upgrade my ESC on the 6:

HW3.1 or VTX10R-BE? Price not a consideration.

The HW has built-in on/off switch, but the Viper has better specs, lighter, smaller footprint and the BEC would support HV servos.

I'm going for the Viper, unless there are glaring issues I do not know of? Thanks,
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:41 AM   #6792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Hey guys, looking to upgrade my ESC on the 6:

HW3.1 or VTX10R-BE? Price not a consideration.

The HW has built-in on/off switch, but the Viper has better specs, lighter, smaller footprint and the BEC would support HV servos.

I'm going for the Viper, unless there are glaring issues I do not know of? Thanks,
Cool, if you have any questions or need help setting up your VTX10, let me know.
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:32 AM   #6793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Cool, if you have any questions or need help setting up your VTX10, let me know.
LOL Cheers. My lhs signed up with Viper RC so at least local h/w support is covered. The footprint alone allows me to fit it with a normal sized rx (i.e that is not KO411!) behind the servo on the MM RB6.

BTW, any reliability issues you'll care to share?
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:07 AM   #6794
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I would run the vtx10 as supposed to the "r" version for buggy unless your trying to run an outrageous mod motor. Because it is a bit lighter. My r was pretty heavy
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:15 AM   #6795
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yeah, dont get the R, its too tall to fit under the rear bulkhead. And I would get the BE because then the caps wont be in the way. The R is also like 20 grams heavier.
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