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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-08-2013, 07:54 AM   #6706
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Originally Posted by wild gopher View Post
Sorry to dig up old old postings but I am looking at the Reventon Pro for my RB6 and I had a question about reliability and ease of programming. Is it the same as the other manufacturers in ease of use, or does it take some tweaking? What motor do you run with it? Any comparisons would be greatly appreciated.
I find it easy to use as it includes the programmer. If you get it you'll want to update the programmer and the ESC to the lastest firmware for Modified Off-Road. Everything to complete that upgrade in included in the box plus downloading some free software from SP. Nothing extra to buy. If you get one I'll provide you my setup. I currently use a Orion 7.5. The feel of the brakes are what I like best about the ESC.

I've not had any heat issues or anything negative. Yes the size is marginally bigger than some others but the switch is built in. If you included the size of external switches with the foot print of others you will have about the same overall foot print.

But really the performance of the the SP vs Orion vs something else are all very close. Pick the one you like and go with it and learn it well. They all have their negatives,
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:24 AM   #6707
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Originally Posted by RodneyB View Post
Is it a replaceable bearing holder so you don't have to throw out $50 hubs when they wear (that in and if itself would be awesome) or can you actually change rear toe with these? The marking if 0 on the hub seems to suggest the inserts do not change toe.
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
interesting, but how often do the hubs wear out. And he said it was for tuning, that is why I thought it was toe inserts.
It's gotta be outboard toe change inserts, considering the v1s don't wear at all. Would be cool if you can do 3, 3.25, 3.5, etc.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:28 AM   #6708
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how do you change the toe on the rb6? Hubs?
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:42 AM   #6709
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I don't know about the revention pro but I just tried a lrp in my buggy, and loved it so much that I bought another one for my truck! The smoothest Esc I've ever used out of tekin, viper and orca. And the easiest to program. Honestly didn't change any of the settings out if the box except for break.
Someday I will try Orion/Hobbywing but not right now

Raced the car in rear motor config last night and it was great. I could get on power sooner and harder out of the corner. Beat my fastest lap time of all and bumped into the a-main. I am stoked! Going to stay with rear motor for a while this time. I need to tune and get this car faster and a bit more stable in the sweeper. Other than that it feels great. Im Back to the b.collins setup.

Last edited by ryanpatrickgore; 05-08-2013 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:46 AM   #6710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodneyB View Post
Is it a replaceable bearing holder so you don't have to throw out $50 hubs when they wear (that in and if itself would be awesome) or can you actually change rear toe with these? The marking if 0 on the hub seems to suggest the inserts do not change toe.
Seems so:

UMW704-02

http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/newparts.html
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:56 AM   #6711
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
It's gotta be outboard toe change inserts, considering the v1s don't wear at all. Would be cool if you can do 3, 3.25, 3.5, etc.
Not too bad of wear on the buggy I suppose (it is a big stretch to say they don't wear at all) but on the SCT they wear alarmingly fast around the bearings. And this type of wear leads to inconsistent feel on the track in my experience.

Looks like this will help with a replaceable insert.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:09 AM   #6712
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I don't have any secret insight to what I said, I just know that Kyosho has used bushings in the past and cleary researching them, you can see what they are moving towards. I know that the TKI3 uses blue bearing holders and they hold up great. They just hold the bearing so there is not much going on there that can cause wearing. At least I don't think so. I can promise this, if Kyosho made it, it will work...
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:10 AM   #6713
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I don't like the idea of having to maintain yet another part of the car but if the alum hubs develop slop then the replacement plastic tree is welcomed. Cheers,
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:27 AM   #6714
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Hmm this is a step in the right direction I suppose. The xray cars also have plastic bushings in the aluminum hubs front and rear. I have never had them wear out. The wear part is always the bearing which gets gritty. They have a support part at the end whic is just bushings so I am assuming it will be cheap to keep it in tip top shape..
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:20 AM   #6715
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I love it. I am just glad I didn't buy the alum .5 hubs LOL. I have the gunmetal 0's now.
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:37 AM   #6716
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Hmm this is a step in the right direction I suppose. The xray cars also have plastic bushings in the aluminum hubs front and rear. I have never had them wear out. The wear part is always the bearing which gets gritty. They have a support part at the end whic is just bushings so I am assuming it will be cheap to keep it in tip top shape..
OOh wait I thought we could change toe with it. If its just the same old 0 inserts then I don't see the point, I would rather put even bigger bearings in there than plastic bushings.
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:07 PM   #6717
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OOh wait I thought we could change toe with it. If its just the same old 0 inserts then I don't see the point, I would rather put even bigger bearings in there than plastic bushings.
That is how I understand what they are trying to say. You still have to change the hubs to get different degree's of toe. Otherwise why would the hub still be marked with a 0 on it? You now have the bushing separating the hub from the bearing.

Could a rear hub similar to this handle inserts in the lower hinge pin to handle different degree's of toe? Similar to how you can change the front hubs caster angle.
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:12 PM   #6718
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Originally Posted by Rfury View Post
A few mins of searching allowed me to find this pic of the new rear hubs.

Attachment 1065802

http://kyoshoshop-online.com/kyosho/...&ggcd=UMW704-0
Looks to me to be 3 different size inserts for the outer bearing?
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:18 PM   #6719
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Try putting the RF block in the front for Mid motor and keep the RR2, it will give you 4deg toe inboard no more alloy hubs. Just try it, it doesn't take long and let me know how it went
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:12 PM   #6720
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Inboard toe of 4. Does it bind your hinge pins up? Is the arm action smooth without the shock attached?
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