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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-01-2013, 10:01 PM   #6571
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
It's probably all in the ESC. The exotec rear bulkhead is identical in weight as the stock plastic piece (im running one)... and the lowpro servo is 10grams lighter than the full sized servo.
I'm not convinced it's 40+g heavier than a hw3 or r10pro...
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:07 PM   #6572
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Originally Posted by Fusiongraphix View Post
Wow, OK well at least i'm not the only one. it really did make me feel like an idiot at the time, but there is just no way they shouldn't of came out easily.. so either they are weak or they have some kinda reaction to the chassis??

for $40 I thought it would replace EVERY screw and might be worth it in shaving some weight.. but your right, I will probably never purchase a kit like this again and it probably barely even shaved weight...

Thanks for sharing...
Sorry to hear your experience. Personally I would not put a ti screw into any metal, same reason I don't run lunsford ball studs in the expensive alum hubs. I treat ti screws almost like set screws and use them on plastics only, expecting them to strip the plastic threads anyway.

For screws that I know will be removed often, like shock screws on the arms, those small screws holding the pins etc., I use normal metal screws so not to strip the plastic.

Anyway I though one would run steel screws on the chassis, ti screws above, to keep the CoG down?

Cheers,
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Old 05-02-2013, 12:07 AM   #6573
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Ha. I thought about it too. I think I had some Nichicons and Cerafines somewhere, but when I went looking they had disappeared.

Just don't stick a black gate in




edit: actually, thinking about it. Are those hobbywing 4X capsets and the tekins nichicon LF or RPs?
Hehe still haven't gotten my hands on a black gate! I love discrete builds but can't spare that cash!! I am gonna rig up a big one (nichicon I think) and test it on a cheapo backup LT4 ESC I have somewhere. Personally the newer ESCs with the 80C batteries are pretty robust I guess, I ran a car once with the cap wire disconnected, did not notice much difference. RX8s are run without caps also.
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:51 AM   #6574
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cpt. america didnt you buy one of my wrenches?
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Old 05-02-2013, 05:45 AM   #6575
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
grr, I stripped out my shock tightening tool. My shocks were leaking from the top and bottom, so I tried to rebleed and snug them up and broke the shock tighter. Anyone know the tree its on?
Do I need to buy this to get it?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...g-Set-Gunmetal
Get the gmk suppply set, he gives you three tools, and the one that holds the shock body without scratching it, is awesome, my shocks were leaking a little from the top before i got that.
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:11 AM   #6576
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I finally found a broken part, front hingepin (inner on the caster block). Replaced it with an xray one cut to size since I didn't have that one, doubt it will break again
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:17 AM   #6577
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Get the gmk suppply set, he gives you three tools, and the one that holds the shock body without scratching it, is awesome, my shocks were leaking a little from the top before i got that.
link for the gmk set?

Also in case anyone is new to Metric cars (like me) and has no hardware, I took 10 min and went through the manual and just made up a quick screw list. It's by no means pretty or perfect but it will let you know what screws to grab if you want to get some bulk stuff. I also emailed Tony from Tony's Screws and he is adding the RB6 to his kits. He wasn't even aware that it wasn't listed on his site.

Button
3x6 8
3x8 14
3x10 16
3x12 10
3x15 6
3x22 2
3x35 8
2.6x5 6

Flat Head
3x8 46
3x10 6
3x12 4
3x15 4
3x18 3

Cap Head
3x18 2
3x22 4


EDIT***

Is this the tool set you were referring to?
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=13528
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:32 AM   #6578
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I like the avid one. Has turnbuckle wrenches for my rb6 and mp9.
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:41 AM   #6579
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I was surprised they leaked at all. I have been hand tightening AE and Losi shock for a while and never a leak. I might need to replace the rubber rings. I think the AE BB ones should work on the caps.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:24 AM   #6580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
link for the gmk set?



EDIT***

Is this the tool set you were referring to?
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=13528
Yup that is it. I also like the losi turnbuckle wrench that has 3.5, 4 and 5mm
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:28 AM   #6581
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I finally found a broken part, front hingepin (inner on the caster block). Replaced it with an xray one cut to size since I didn't have that one, doubt it will break again
I would not do that, the xray pin is way stronger than the K stuff. Someone on this thread put the xb4 rear hinge pin into the kyosho aluminum hangers and tore up the RF kyosho hanger. The xb4 has thick plastic inserts to flex and give a bit the kyosho will be ripped.

Shock tool Epers version is good very tight tolerances as well.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:47 AM   #6582
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For those with Ti screws sticking to aluminum.....they will. It is well known in bicycle circles to heavily grease ti seat post into aluminum frame, otherwise they can "weld" together. It is some kind of reaction between aluminum and ti, it can create a very strong bond. I have seen a nice aluminum frame bike have to be trashed because of a ti post being stuck in the frame.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:48 AM   #6583
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cpt. america didnt you buy one of my wrenches?
Sure did! works freakin great.

Funny story actually, I bought it... and then I lost it! I couldn't find it for the LIFE of me. Went through 4 or 5 different shock rebuilds before I finally found it in my "key/change bowl" on the counter. I think my wife found it and didn't know it was for RC, so into the misc bowl it went. Finally got to use it about a month ago.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:52 AM   #6584
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Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Personally I would not put a ti screw into any metal, same reason I don't run lunsford ball studs in the expensive alum hubs.
Iv been running lunsford Ti ballstuds in my kyosho aluminum for a long time, and have never had an issue. I think the lunsford Ti ballstuds are FAR stronger than the stock ballstuds, and would HATE for one to break off in the aluminum... so I personally consider the lunsford Ti ballstuds in the rear hubs a MUST HAVE. (same if running the alu rear upper bulkhead)

I don't use Ti screws though.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:59 AM   #6585
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Iv been running lunsford Ti ballstuds in my kyosho aluminum for a long time, and have never had an issue. I think the lunsford Ti ballstuds are FAR stronger than the stock ballstuds, and would HATE for one to break off in the aluminum... so I personally consider the lunsford Ti ballstuds in the rear hubs a MUST HAVE. (same if running the alu rear upper bulkhead)

I don't use Ti screws though.
Have any of you guys ever bent a lundsford punisher turnbuckle? I just bent one on my rear link on my 17.5 RB6.
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