Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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#6572
Wow, OK well at least i'm not the only one. it really did make me feel like an idiot at the time, but there is just no way they shouldn't of came out easily.. so either they are weak or they have some kinda reaction to the chassis??
for $40 I thought it would replace EVERY screw and might be worth it in shaving some weight.. but your right, I will probably never purchase a kit like this again and it probably barely even shaved weight...
Thanks for sharing...
for $40 I thought it would replace EVERY screw and might be worth it in shaving some weight.. but your right, I will probably never purchase a kit like this again and it probably barely even shaved weight...
Thanks for sharing...
For screws that I know will be removed often, like shock screws on the arms, those small screws holding the pins etc., I use normal metal screws so not to strip the plastic.
Anyway I though one would run steel screws on the chassis, ti screws above, to keep the CoG down?
Cheers,
#6573
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
Hehe still haven't gotten my hands on a black gate! I love discrete builds but can't spare that cash!! I am gonna rig up a big one (nichicon I think) and test it on a cheapo backup LT4 ESC I have somewhere. Personally the newer ESCs with the 80C batteries are pretty robust I guess, I ran a car once with the cap wire disconnected, did not notice much difference. RX8s are run without caps also.
#6575
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
grr, I stripped out my shock tightening tool. My shocks were leaking from the top and bottom, so I tried to rebleed and snug them up and broke the shock tighter. Anyone know the tree its on?
Do I need to buy this to get it?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...g-Set-Gunmetal
Do I need to buy this to get it?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...g-Set-Gunmetal
#6577
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Also in case anyone is new to Metric cars (like me) and has no hardware, I took 10 min and went through the manual and just made up a quick screw list. It's by no means pretty or perfect but it will let you know what screws to grab if you want to get some bulk stuff. I also emailed Tony from Tony's Screws and he is adding the RB6 to his kits. He wasn't even aware that it wasn't listed on his site.
Button
3x6 8
3x8 14
3x10 16
3x12 10
3x15 6
3x22 2
3x35 8
2.6x5 6
Flat Head
3x8 46
3x10 6
3x12 4
3x15 4
3x18 3
Cap Head
3x18 2
3x22 4
EDIT***
Is this the tool set you were referring to?
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=13528
#6580
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
link for the gmk set?
EDIT***
Is this the tool set you were referring to?
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=13528
EDIT***
Is this the tool set you were referring to?
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=13528
#6581
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
Shock tool Epers version is good very tight tolerances as well.
#6582
Tech Elite
iTrader: (551)
For those with Ti screws sticking to aluminum.....they will. It is well known in bicycle circles to heavily grease ti seat post into aluminum frame, otherwise they can "weld" together. It is some kind of reaction between aluminum and ti, it can create a very strong bond. I have seen a nice aluminum frame bike have to be trashed because of a ti post being stuck in the frame.
#6583
Sure did! works freakin great.
Funny story actually, I bought it... and then I lost it! I couldn't find it for the LIFE of me. Went through 4 or 5 different shock rebuilds before I finally found it in my "key/change bowl" on the counter. I think my wife found it and didn't know it was for RC, so into the misc bowl it went. Finally got to use it about a month ago.
Funny story actually, I bought it... and then I lost it! I couldn't find it for the LIFE of me. Went through 4 or 5 different shock rebuilds before I finally found it in my "key/change bowl" on the counter. I think my wife found it and didn't know it was for RC, so into the misc bowl it went. Finally got to use it about a month ago.
#6584
I don't use Ti screws though.
#6585
Tech Regular
iTrader: (45)
Iv been running lunsford Ti ballstuds in my kyosho aluminum for a long time, and have never had an issue. I think the lunsford Ti ballstuds are FAR stronger than the stock ballstuds, and would HATE for one to break off in the aluminum... so I personally consider the lunsford Ti ballstuds in the rear hubs a MUST HAVE. (same if running the alu rear upper bulkhead)
I don't use Ti screws though.
I don't use Ti screws though.