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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-01-2013, 05:12 PM   #6556
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My mod rb6 is around 1580 1590 grams right now. I have aluminum ghea front hangers, kyosho full aluminum steering rack (had the exo I think the K is lighter), Aluminum hangers and hubs, airtronics 92524, bls551, IP 80C shorty, shortest possible wiring, hobbywing v3 speedo, tekin 7.5 and all unnecessary plastic eliminated, transponder shoe gooed instead of mounted with holder. BTW the exo rear is very close to the plastic part, someone posted it to be a few grams more (11 i think).

Also use the stock body I have the jconcepts and its heavier and same durability wise.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:23 PM   #6557
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Mike/bob, you don't need to modify the side pods to mount a reciever there at all. that is where I originally mounted mine, and it mounts just fine as-is. Just put a small strip where it contacts on the bottom, and a small strip where it contacts on the side of the receiver, and it locks in nice and tight. No need to modify anything.
Mine isn't for the receiver. It's for the ESC's power cap. It's triangle shaped so it's tough to get it on 2 sides like you were saying. I think it's in pretty solid now, but I won't know for sure until it bounces around some
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:26 PM   #6558
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Just another option

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ra-Cap-Catcher
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:38 PM   #6559
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my cap... it won't work with that.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn....jpg?1346682333

I'm sure if I have any issues I'll work them out.....thanks for the suggestion though
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:47 PM   #6560
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Aah those multipack caps. I have half a mind to put a big audiophile grade capacitor I got spare from my headphone amp builds. Its just a 16V electrolytic capacitor right , the RC companies charge ridiculous prices for these when you buy them to keep as spares.
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:03 PM   #6561
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
ummm, no. I wont take a dremel to a Ferrari. That is just sinful.
Every rc car I've ever owned has been dremeled, its just not yours until you break her in

And yeah, replacement is cheap if i change my mind. Capt, i had it shoegoo'd in first, but it just sits better this way.
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:48 PM   #6562
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Aah those multipack caps. I have half a mind to put a big audiophile grade capacitor I got spare from my headphone amp builds. Its just a 16V electrolytic capacitor right , the RC companies charge ridiculous prices for these when you buy them to keep as spares.
Ha. I thought about it too. I think I had some Nichicons and Cerafines somewhere, but when I went looking they had disappeared.

Just don't stick a black gate in




edit: actually, thinking about it. Are those hobbywing 4X capsets and the tekins nichicon LF or RPs?
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:50 PM   #6563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Aah those multipack caps. I have half a mind to put a big audiophile grade capacitor I got spare from my headphone amp builds. Its just a 16V electrolytic capacitor right , the RC companies charge ridiculous prices for these when you buy them to keep as spares.
oh I dunno.... it comes pre-installed. I have no reason to remove or change it so I don't think twice about it.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:10 PM   #6564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
silvalis- the viper is pretty heavy and the alum exotek rear bulkhead is too, wires can also be heavy. shorty servos are much lighter than standard too.
It's probably all in the ESC. The exotec rear bulkhead is identical in weight as the stock plastic piece (im running one)... and the lowpro servo is 10grams lighter than the full sized servo.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:39 PM   #6565
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soooooooo. Mine weight 1648 with a shorty......Its a fat cow. But it handles great, so I don't overly care.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:18 PM   #6566
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grr, I stripped out my shock tightening tool. My shocks were leaking from the top and bottom, so I tried to rebleed and snug them up and broke the shock tighter. Anyone know the tree its on?
Do I need to buy this to get it?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...g-Set-Gunmetal
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:23 PM   #6567
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grr, I stripped out my shock tightening tool. My shocks were leaking from the top and bottom, so I tried to rebleed and snug them up and broke the shock tighter. Anyone know the tree its on?
Do I need to buy this to get it?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...g-Set-Gunmetal
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

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Old 05-01-2013, 09:05 PM   #6568
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Default Kyosho Titanium Screw Set

Has anyone else purchased the Kyosho Titanium Screw Set for the RB6?

My RB6 is pretty factory with tons of Red washers, some of the cool Red Exotek stuff and Ive also been trying to shave weight so I purchased this screw kit.

I was pretty bummed when I found out it doesn't even replace the whole kit, I would say probably 75% of the screws.

well the reason for my post is to warn people not only about it not being a complete kit, but I had some major problems with the Flat head Tapered screws that go underneath the chassis. All of the button head screws are fine, but the Under chassis ones seem to weld them selves to the chassis? I seriously barely tightened them down that much and I realized that I wanted to use a different combo of them in a different location and tried to take them out and stripped the heads out. I then said well I wonder if I'm going to be able to take the rest out. I seriously stripped out everyone. its funny when I was screwing them down and got close to the tightening area they would kinda click, similar to the regular screws, but when they would click they would spark?? not sure if it was the titanium to metal chassis sparking or what..

I know what everyone is thinking!! your tools are probably shitty or you tightened them too much?? NO.. I don't tighten my stuff that tight ever. I like to keep the plastic threads good and tight instead of over tightening them and stripping the plastic out. I have learned my lesson too many times, I even turn most of the screws backwards until you can feel the start of them and try and use the same threads over again. I also have purchased the 1.5mm, 2.5mm and 3mm Hudy Allen Tips to go into my Dynamite wrenches. The Dynamite heads are ok, but after I purchased them I got the Hudys.. cant beat them.

anyways, I'm pretty bummed how weak the Titanium screws are now im going to have to take a dremel or drill them out to get them unscrewed.

I got SCREWED!!

just a warning if you purchase this kit keep them super loose if you want them back out. I'm going to email Kyosho America and see if they have any advice or ideas and maybe they will replace the few on the bottom for me.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:21 PM   #6569
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Same thing happened to me on the chassis screws. The previous owner put the Ti screws underneth and they were locked in pretty good. I got them out and tossed them in the can. They might be ok going into platics, but i agree they kinda stuck to the alum chassis. I just prefer the steel. alum and Ti screws are just a waste imo.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:26 PM   #6570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
Same thing happened to me on the chassis screws. The previous owner put the Ti screws underneth and they were locked in pretty good. I got them out and tossed them in the can. They might be ok going into platics, but i agree they kinda stuck to the alum chassis. I just prefer the steel. alum and Ti screws are just a waste imo.
Wow, OK well at least i'm not the only one. it really did make me feel like an idiot at the time, but there is just no way they shouldn't of came out easily.. so either they are weak or they have some kinda reaction to the chassis??

for $40 I thought it would replace EVERY screw and might be worth it in shaving some weight.. but your right, I will probably never purchase a kit like this again and it probably barely even shaved weight...

Thanks for sharing...
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