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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-30-2013, 07:44 AM   #6481
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My initial electronics layout on the new ride

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Old 04-30-2013, 08:00 AM   #6482
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
The JC b4 or JC TLR rears? I assume you meant B4. 3mm? are you sure, Those manufactures, like AKA, JC and others market those rears as for the b4, RB5/6 and tlr22. The main reason for the wheels nuts fitting seems to be the wheel thickness around the axle. I have some various wheels at home, but none of them have the same tire for an accurate comparison. If anyone has unmounted wheels, I would definitely like to see how the avid, aka, JC, Kyosho and other wheels measure. 3mm would greatly make the car feel different.
+1

I'm not doubting Cpt's claim but there's a case here. JC hex rims 3348 are more accessible.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:07 AM   #6483
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looks good Bob. I am wishing I have the separate cap. Mounting the vtx10 with the caps on top is crappy. I cant really get it far enough back because the caps hit the bulkhead.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:15 AM   #6484
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I dont think so that looks like the carbon one. The one I had was silver aluminum looking.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:19 AM   #6485
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looks good Bob. I am wishing I have the separate cap. Mounting the vtx10 with the caps on top is crappy. I cant really get it far enough back because the caps hit the bulkhead.
so just install the updated cap
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:19 AM   #6486
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I dont think so that looks like the carbon one. The one I had was silver aluminum looking.
I thbink this one.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nner-Pin-Brace


Has anyone tried the avid top shaft? How well does it hold up? I always thought the alum top shafts tended to wear out really fast. I would like to use the AE Spurs if I can because the spurs are easy to get local.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:25 AM   #6487
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Hey guys, for those running MM, are you adding weights in and around the motor? On the RF and behind the battery? I'm gonna try ramming a shorty right up to the motor guard, and 'park' the back end of battery in place with some weights to prevent it slipping towards the motor. I'm thinking with MM I'm gonna need more weight towards the rear anyway. Thanks,
No, no weight. My shorty is in the same place. I posted a pic a few pages back. You should not have to run any extra weight for mm. If you do ... You need to work on setup instead. Or. rear motor is better for your track and you don't have enought traction in your dirt/clay
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:14 AM   #6488
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One more thing, to get the rear turnbuckles level with the rb6 rear arms, how many shims do I need at the tower and hubs respectively? Thanks!
What are you trying to accomplish by doing this?
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:19 AM   #6489
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What are you trying to accomplish by doing this?
He wants a different roll center?
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:39 AM   #6490
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What are you trying to accomplish by doing this?
I'm looking for some sort of MM starting rear roll center to play with. Thanks,
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:49 AM   #6491
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Drawing a straight line from inner to outer hinge pin, the upper camber link looks to be very close to parallel with an even amount of shims on the inner and outer ball studs on the car I ran this weekend.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:56 AM   #6492
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[QUOTE=Wildcat1971;12101778]I thbink this one.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nner-Pin-Brace


Has anyone tried the avid top shaft? How well does it hold up? I always thought the alum top shafts tended to wear out really fast. I would like to use the AE Spurs if I can because the spurs are easy to get local.[/Q

AVID TRIAD is the bomb. Spur gears are great and the slipper system is great
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:09 AM   #6493
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I thbink this one.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nner-Pin-Brace


Has anyone tried the avid top shaft? How well does it hold up? I always thought the alum top shafts tended to wear out really fast. I would like to use the AE Spurs if I can because the spurs are easy to get local.
Tlr spurs go right on to the stock top shaft. You can use the AE spur and pads for a bit but the stock slipper plates will ride on the spur eventually. I ran the tlr 70 in 17.5/13.5 and a tlr 78 in mod with tlr pads and kyosho vented plates. We have it all at 1H. Even have the avid top shaft if you are set on getting one I never used it.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:10 AM   #6494
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Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
Tlr spurs go right on to the stock top shaft. You can use the AE spur and pads for a bit but the stock slipper plates will ride on the spur eventually. I ran the tlr 70 in 17.5/13.5 and a tlr 78 in mod with tlr pads and kyosho vented plates. We have it all at 1H. Even have the avid top shaft if you are set on getting one I never used it.
Heck I even have the avid slipper setup ill sell cheap to you. I think it's a pile personally.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:12 AM   #6495
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good stuff.

I do currently have the '3 line' axles on the car so that should compensate some until I can stock up on Kyosho rims.
Yes, that would probably be just about right!
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