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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-24-2013, 09:28 PM   #6376
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Doesn't look bad to see what insert you have just pop one out and it's stamped on the side. Rear I almost always ran 2mm inside 1-2on the hub but I ran -2 hubs where the holes are slightly farther out.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:37 AM   #6377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyric View Post
how is the RB6 Build for a novice builder. I was looking at the B4.2 FT but I like the RB6 but this will be my first solo build.
The fit of parts is excellent, the directions are something to be desired.........
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:34 AM   #6378
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lol, the instructions are terrible. I have been building kits for a long time and I found them a pain.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:20 AM   #6379
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thanks. holy money butt. I just took apart the rear end because I wanted to see if the .5mm shim was under the rear holder.....well, the entire rear end literally fell apart. pillow balls, washers, spacers and shims fell all over the floor...those hinge pins are soooooo free that they made it a pain to get them to stay in place longer enough for me to get he holder, shim and read bumper into place. I really dislike how the bumper stacks with the shim and holder. grr, maybe with practice..... If I ever break a holder parts are going to be all over the track.......good thing I have some delrin pillow balls coming. if you guys loose the 2mm plastic spacer in front of the rear arms, aside from buying and entire parts tree, what do you use? the losi plastic ball stud shim pack?
ok, gitsum, I will run without the screws this weekend. I am really nervous about how loose people say the rear of this buggy is. I keep having sc10 4x4 flashbacks, lol.
Ive ran my car at srs and warehouse three and my car was locked in in the rear i had absolutely no problem with rear traction.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:23 AM   #6380
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Quote:
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Am I correct that there is no alum mid rear hanger as of yet?
Hi,

As far as i know only this company at the moment produce them:

http://www.yaiba-racing.com/products/YRG038_eng.html

Ciao,

Lorenzo
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:31 AM   #6381
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yeah, those new yaiba parts are suppose to hit stateside in 2 weeks or so.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:55 AM   #6382
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I will run without the screws this weekend. I am really nervous about how loose people say the rear of this buggy is. I keep having sc10 4x4 flashbacks, lol.
Who says that?? car is planted, don't worry. Long rear camber link always seems to give me more rear bite and less rotation you need to settle the car down, but typically I am chasing a bit more steering.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:59 AM   #6383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyric View Post
how is the RB6 Build for a novice builder. I was looking at the B4.2 FT but I like the RB6 but this will be my first solo build.
Pretty much any small issue or question you may have during the build has been covered here, so just search the thread if you're unsure. Car goes together great with no "fitting" of parts. Make sure you have a good 2mm hex, I personally pre-threaded my ballstuds after almost cross threading the stock ones. (stock do not have a hex in the head, so using a nut driver they tend to go in crooked, prethreading with a screw solves this).
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:01 AM   #6384
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My "in case of midship" setup is almost done, I'm going to leave the speedo in the rear with the battery mid, I think the 40% of the battery and speed control are about the same weight, and this makes wiring much nicer. If I had an LRP comp without the heat sink, it would fit on the receiver tray, but it's a bit tall with the heatsink on now.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:03 AM   #6385
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The guys here that say the rear is loose are running the 521 rear arms. Yes it is correct with those arms and our tracks you get a bit of a drift. I didnt like it and stayed with the stock rb6 arms.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:45 AM   #6386
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yeah, I really dont want to get all crazy with rb5 parts and what not. I prefer to keep it all rb6 parts and keep the mods to a minimum. Are the pivot balls in the rear holder supposed to snap in or be loose. So if I put them in and turn over the holder, should they fall out? I am just trying to gauge the wear on the ones i have. everything seems snug and not clapped out when mounted on the car.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:13 AM   #6387
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
yeah, I really dont want to get all crazy with rb5 parts and what not. I prefer to keep it all rb6 parts and keep the mods to a minimum. Are the pivot balls in the rear holder supposed to snap in or be loose. So if I put them in and turn over the holder, should they fall out? I am just trying to gauge the wear on the ones i have. everything seems snug and not clapped out when mounted on the car.
No they do not clip in, as long as they don't have play, but are free when assembled, you're good.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:56 AM   #6388
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I have run with all the rb6 parts since the car came out and my car handles great. Any doubts to this just ask R dub And he can testify to my abilities.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:58 AM   #6389
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
thanks. holy money butt. I just took apart the rear end because I wanted to see if the .5mm shim was under the rear holder.....well, the entire rear end literally fell apart. pillow balls, washers, spacers and shims fell all over the floor...those hinge pins are soooooo free that they made it a pain to get them to stay in place longer enough for me to get he holder, shim and read bumper into place. I really dislike how the bumper stacks with the shim and holder. grr, maybe with practice..... If I ever break a holder parts are going to be all over the track.......good thing I have some delrin pillow balls coming. if you guys loose the 2mm plastic spacer in front of the rear arms, aside from buying and entire parts tree, what do you use? the losi plastic ball stud shim pack?
ok, gitsum, I will run without the screws this weekend. I am really nervous about how loose people say the rear of this buggy is. I keep having sc10 4x4 flashbacks, lol.
In rear motor configuration, I had no traction issues with narrow hangers, it is locked in more than my b4.
Also you might be happy with the stock setup to start with, it's pretty dang good everywhere. Best out of the box setup on any car I've had. It's a grat starting point to get the feel of the car. Also this car seems to be pretty responsive to changes unlike a few other buggies, making it a pleasure to tune and test with.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:35 AM   #6390
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yeah, I pulled the one off my 22 to try. worked good. my 22 kinda need a new gear cover anyway. sadly the kyosho cover is cheaper, lol. ok, the shocks. WOW so freaking nice to build. just like the old losi xx shocks. I am gonna run losi 55x4 with 30/27.5 for now. I have read the 55x4 is sweet. I might get the ae 1.3x4's once they come into stock. My front pin brace is tweaked a little not a ton, but a little. I am not sure if it is the 1mm thicker version. how thick is the upgraded brace? is the xxx brace better, thought i read it works. Honestly the pin brace design is a little weak. The plastic bumper is suppose to keep it on and support it I guess. I notice the previous owner was trying to put the Team Stock setup on the buggy. he even removed the 3x screws from the side pods. the only screws in the pods are the end ones. should i put more screws in? And yeah, avid rear wheels dont really fit. I used the locked hut on it, but it looks like it only threaded 1/2 way. I am unsure if the serrated surface will be enough. sadly I just mounted all of my tires on avid wheels for my b4.....so I kinda wanna use them. ok, gonna get back to the buggy.
RB6 Rear axles and hexes are in the pipeline to allow better fitment of AVID and other non-Kyosho rear wheels. I ran the Durango serrated wheel nuts on my RB6 with AVID wheels and it worked great, but we went ahead and made the new axle hex to make a more durable rear axle that has extended threads as well. Stay tuned...
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